Problem adjusting shims on steering

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Ausman123 said:
do you know how to get the old Bush out ? Or is it an entire strip down that would be handy to know bud
Click to expand...
Section 60-1 on the workshop manual in the link I sent

Top and bottom bushes sit in a recess in the ball press fit , so big hammers and drifts to knock them out and same to get new ones in
 
Try with one wheel on ground when shaking other one for play, you said earlier you had 1” of vertical play , so you have lots play horizontal as well , as anaconda says what’s your wheel bearing like
 
You have to strip down the housing to the point where there is just the ball left on the axle as in steam wally video above at 5.10 No need to remove lower arm as once the top pin and big seal removed housing will pivot off. Bush then pushed out upwards.
Are you sure itis not a wheel bearing causing issues? Any chance you could post a video of the problem?
 
Anaconda said:
Wheel bearings?
Where are you holding the wheel when you feel the movement?
There are a lot of helpful videos on YouTube helping diagnose different issues.
Click to expand...
Holding it horizontally maybe the weight is to much to get a vertical movement ? I was wondering if you over tighten the pre load would this occur? The one thing I did not di is add shims as the pulling weight on the scales was around 10 kg and still is ? I read it should be around 3 kg so to recap the passenger side which I havent checked the preload has no movement and turns easily whereas the drivers side has a preload of 10 kg or more ? The reason I didn't add shims and removed instead was to get rid if the play I am going to preload it ( I have new shims) and get it to 3kg and see if it stops pulling me to the left when driving it obviously the bearing will need replacing if it still moves but i will at least know that the tightness of the preload was too much ? One thing i am not understanding on this is the sleeve that that the top pin sits into .I have looked st pictures of that Bush and it seems to be capped off st the bottom of this is the case then how does the pin move inside to rub the shaft ( when adjusting the preload) if that makes any sense ie. The pin can only go so far into the Bush because of the capped of end of it ?
 
steve2286w said:
Try with one wheel on ground when shaking other one for play, you said earlier you had 1” of vertical play , so you have lots play horizontal as well , as anaconda says what’s your wheel bearing like
Click to expand...
I am being stupid here sorry but where is the bearing? I know there's a needle bearing underneath the chrome ball but havent seen what's on the top of it ? Does it have a separate wheel bearing like a car which holds the wheel nut studs ? I have only seen diagrams of the chrome ball assembly if it's the wheel bearing like a car then it must be pretty badly worn to give that sort of movement again if that makes sense sorry new to this sought of set up it's my first landrover
 
steve2286w said:
Section 60-1 on the workshop manual in the link I sent

Top and bottom bushes sit in a recess in the ball press fit , so big hammers and drifts to knock them out and same to get new ones in
Click to expand...
I also forgot to mention the steering is very stiff even off the ground but I think that's due to the preload being to tight as the relay moves freely
 
It is clear from your posts you are not understanding how the Railco bush system works.
The Swivel pin sits in the bush, at the bottom of the bush is the thrust washer, more shims reduces pre load, fewer shims increases the pre load. It is the bottom of the pin pressing on the thrust washer in the bush that does the job.
I have no idea what you mean by "rub the shaft" unless it is what I describe above.
There are several videos on the tube that will help make clear
 
Okay.

Let's break it down. In simple terms.

The front wheel can wobble from two causes.

1). The wheel (& hub it sits on) can wobble on the stub axle/spindle.

To test, Jack the wheel up on the air, safety, and grip it at 3 and 9 o clock.

Did it rock?

Do the same at 12 and 6 o clock.

Is it rocking?

If both show movement that means it's likely that the two big roller bearings that hold the wheel on the axle are loose, or worn.

2). Then there's the steering knuckle/king pin/swivel.

If the wheel only rocks at 12 & 6 then it's the swivel ball steering pins that are loose or worn.

So. Do those tests and report back.
 
It is so much easier to watch some good videos than it is for people to describe it.
That is what I did when we had the 2a, the same job, swivel rebuild was done in less than a day easy.
I probably watched the Steamwally videos or Trailerfitters toolbox. Basic checks are same as a Defender, pretty much.
 
tottot said:
It is clear from your posts you are not understanding how the Railco bush system works.
The Swivel pin sits in the bush, at the bottom of the bush is the thrust washer, more shims reduces pre load, fewer shims increases the pre load. It is the bottom of the pin pressing on the thrust washer in the bush that does the job.
I have no idea what you mean by "rub the shaft" unless it is what I describe above.
There are several videos on the tube that will help make clear
Click to expand...
I sought of understand what I am saying is when you bolt down the top with the 4 bolts at the top ( not sure what that part is called?) It slides into the Bush at the bottom of that Bush sleeve is a tiny hole ( the same as the fibre washer) I don't have any pin in that hole ( if there should be one) to pull the
tottot said:
It is clear from your posts you are not understanding how the Railco bush system works.
The Swivel pin sits in the bush, at the bottom of the bush is the thrust washer, more shims reduces pre load, fewer shims increases the pre load. It is the bottom of the pin pressing on the thrust washer in the bush that does the job.
I have no idea what you mean by "rub the shaft" unless it is what I describe above.
There are several videos on the tube that will help make clear
Click to expand...

Wildefalcon said:
Okay.

Let's break it down. In simple terms.

The front wheel can wobble from two causes.

1). The wheel (& hub it sits on) can wobble on the stub axle/spindle.

To test, Jack the wheel up on the air, safety, and grip it at 3 and 9 o clock.

Did it rock?

Do the same at 12 and 6 o clock.

Is it rocking?

If both show movement that means it's likely that the two big roller bearings that hold the wheel on the axle are loose, or worn.

2). Then there's the steering knuckle/king pin/swivel.

If the wheel only rocks at 12 & 6 then it's the swivel ball steering pins that are loose or worn.

So. Do those tests and report back.
Click to expand...
 
I recon what the proper names for the parts is much of the issue here with regards understanding.
1 The item with the four bolts through it is the swivel pin/sometimes called king pin.
2 The Railco bush has a small hole in the bottom, nothing goes in it. It is there to allow oil to splash up from the joint in the ball and lube the bush and swivel pin.
3 What you call the fiber washer is the thrust washer, it like the lining of the bush is made of a material that absorbs some oil and lubes the pin. Should be oiled before fitting.
 
Wildefalcon said:
Okay.

Let's break it down. In simple terms.

The front wheel can wobble from two causes.

1). The wheel (& hub it sits on) can wobble on the stub axle/spindle.

To test, Jack the wheel up on the air, safety, and grip it at 3 and 9 o clock.

Did it rock?

Do the same at 12 and 6 o clock.

Is it rocking?

If both show movement that means it's likely that the two big roller bearings that hold the wheel on the axle are loose, or worn.

2). Then
Click to expand...

tottot said:
I recon what the proper names for the parts is much of the issue here with regards understanding.
1 The item with the four bolts through it is the swivel pin/sometimes called king pin.
2 The Railco bush has a small hole in the bottom, nothing goes in it. It is there to allow oil to splash up from the joint in the ball and lube the bush and swivel pin.
3 What you call the fiber washer is the thrust washer, it like the lining of the bush is made of a material that absorbs some oil and lubes the pin. Should be oiled before fitting.
Click to expand...
Thanks now I get it lol I thought maybe there was a pin between that hole that tightens the okay obviously wrong as i said new ti this but i found out something interesting today when i noticed the movement in the wheel then what's to say the other side is not the problem as the connecting rod connects to both? So obviously unhook all the rods before you rattle the wheel ? So today took out shims preloaded at 3kg each side and huge improvement enen without the steering column adjustment but not done up so still have okay but no more is the vehicle trying to pull me into a ditch also on a side not drive it in South Wales and the British Army passed me by and gave me a flash doesn't get better then that for a days work lol need to drive it to Ireland in the next couple of weeks but still have that movement and I thank you all for all your advice
 
Progress well done , If you took out all the shims and nipped up the 4 bolts on top to get the 3kg tension , are you left with a small gap between swivel pin and housing where the shims would have been
 
steve2286w said:
Progress well done , If you took out all the shims and nipped up the 4 bolts on top to get the 3kg tension , are you left with a small gap between swivel pin and housing where the shims would have been
Click to expand...
I think I found the problem the passenger side was way to loose as I was doing the job on uneven ground . But I have another problem now the driver side wheel has allot of play I am thinking wheel bearing I have free wheeling hubs so I think I will take it to a garage as I dint fancy springs shooting out everywhere Thanks for your replies
 
Ausman123 said:
I think I found the problem the passenger side was way to loose as I was doing the job on uneven ground . But I have another problem now the driver side wheel has allot of play I am thinking wheel bearing I have free wheeling hubs so I think I will take it to a garage as I dint fancy springs shooting out everywhere Thanks for your replies
Click to expand...
The hubs are self contained. There is a spring but it’s relatively weak and only puts a pound or two pressure on the locking spline.
The hardest bit is hammering a torx bit into the rounded Allen key studs to unscrew them.
The whole unit then simply pulls off the hub in one piece.
 
Bobsticle said:
The hubs are self contained. There is a spring but it’s relatively weak and only puts a pound or two pressure on the locking spline.
The hardest bit is hammering a torx bit into the rounded Allen key studs to unscrew them.
The whole unit then simply pulls off the hub in one piece.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that info as I can't seem to find any diagrams on freewheeling hubs ? Only standard
 
Ausman123 said:
Thanks for that info as I can't seem to find any diagrams on freewheeling hubs ? Only standard
Click to expand...
It’s a container (the bit you can see), a push in and out cog and a rotary switch that duz the pushing.

That’s it. The loose spring sits behind the cog but is attached to said cog and the container, holding the three parts together.
 
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