Preparing an RR V8 Classic for a trip to Morocco?

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OK, point taken. Do you have a step by step guide on how to produce and fit these valves?

You have 2 ways to do it :

-DIY and you mess with standard tire valves rubber. Basically you start with a rubber valve and you finish with a metal valve that is 6mm ID. Then you insert that in a straight air suspension connector (female-female instant connector). I work with LEGRIS 3606 - EQUAL TUBE TO TUBE CONNECTOR. Brass connector not that plastic **** you find lowcost.

-BUY and you go to ebay UK and look for EAS valves, often for P38.
"Emergency Valves EAS" or "Bypass EAS Valves".

Then on a LSE in case of EAS breakdown, you need to go under frame and find out the EAS box. There's a little door on it, open it and disconnect the pipes #1,2,3,4 (airsprings) then plug those pipes on the inflation valves.
129_0810_08_z+2008_toyota_tundra_ride_rite_air_springs+brass_valve_stems.jpg


Last, go to tire station or use your 12v tire compressor and fill each valve.
Pressure isn't a good indicator since load isn't always the same. Watch for 4 inches between tire and fender.

Should i add practice once or twice before doing that at night and cold in the middle of nowhere with children begging.
 
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There's no kit for the LSE at least in UK.

It has been done but i can't find photos but only that thread
EAS-M

Some more infos here:
http://www.carrollrovers.com/Range-Rover-Suspension-Bypass.htm

I really prefer the bypass version since it doesn't add any points of leaks at all in the system.

What you need is 4 valves, some 6 mm pipe and 4 tees (or union depending on what setup you want)

LSE has valve block and compressor under the frame (instead of under the hood on the P38).

You'll have to plumb the inflation valves there.

Either install those valves with a tee for long term install or with a junction fitting.

You'll have choice to install 4 valves on the door of the EAS box (my choice) or routing those 4 valves and pipes up to the front or the rear of the vehicle.

I've seen one install where the guy had routed those following the oem air pipe that goes from compressor head to RHD rear light (air filter pipe)...
 
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Thanks dude, very informative! How come you have to inflate the valves from the tyre place after fitting, surely the EAS would just reinflate everything? Or is that just to test they work?

Also, before fitting these due you have to depressuirse the system? I am guessing I need to get the car up on axle stands to allow access underneath!
 
Thanks dude, very informative! How come you have to inflate the valves from the tyre place after fitting, surely the EAS would just reinflate everything? Or is that just to test they work?

Also, before fitting these due you have to depressuirse the system? I am guessing I need to get the car up on axle stands to allow access underneath!

You can test the valves you installed work and i advise to do so.

Then plug everything back as OEM (if you've chosen bypass version that i prefer but i have a P38)

Yes it's better to depressurize the system the day you want to test those.
Put axle stands under the frame to hold the body up.
Let those until air is back again in the springs to reduce stress on those.

Don't worry about the real day you'll need them since the system will obviously be air free. No need to depressurize anything that bloody day...


Writing that and since the EAS box is under frame on the Classic, it can be of difficult access without jacking the frame when suspension is on the bumpstops.
In that case the multi-mode version (no bypass) may be more comfortable to use.
I mean no need to crawl under the frame, open the door, unplug the pipes from valve block, plug those to valves...)

If some good tee fittings (screw things from Legris) are used, you can manage to have a reliable backup system ready to receive air from a tyre compressor...
 
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