Pre Heater / Block heaters

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I am not so worked about either my van or disco starting its the getting in to a warmed up ready defrosted car I'm looking forward to. I live only 10 minutes from my work and I am just getting heat as I park my van at work at the moment.
 
was thinkiing of those lines my self but not having the ability or means to silver solderi was lookinga something like a heavy duty fuel can as the resovoir what does everyone think ?
 
I would advise strongly against using any kind of plastic container to house an immersion heater element! If the water level was to drop the element would melt threw the plastic and anything else nearby in your engine bay. If it is housed in metal it would still get very hot but eventually the thermostat backup would trip and shut of the element until it was reset.

You can get an Essex Flange which bolts threw so dose not need welded but would mean using a bigger housing to give enough room for the flange.

Look what I have just found

**** Supreme Plumbing & Electrical Supplies >> 11 Inch GEEZA ELEMENT HEATER - IH305 ****

I was goggling for 1” bsp heating elements which can be fitted in to a piece of iron pipe and it just appeared in my search, why am I doing all this work?


I would also suggest that this heater is only ever connected to the mains threw an RCD as the cap on the end of an immersion heater cant be sealed 100% from the elements and may at some point get damp.
 
that is perfect !!!! pre built just attach a pump and hoses :) and mount it behinnd the bumper :)
 
IanFi I just found another link from you on the vegatablebiodiesel site :) just need to find a suitable pump :)
 
when i get my new block heater built where is it best to plumb in ? Upper and lower rad hoses or in to the heater matrix ?
 
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you'll find the cab heater won't chuck anywhere near as much heat as before, due to heat loss from your contraption, unless you can bypass it while on the road
 
so I need to electronically close off the pre heater when the engine is running that should be easy :) (famous last words there lol)
 
Why cany you use 2 T pieces in bottom hose going to an element in then convection would help, you are only adding maybe 300 to 500mls of extra coolant and as its a loop i.e not restricting flow. I have been toying with the idea of heat pads for the sump pan, 12v water heaters fitted as i describe above but the current draw at 12v is mahusive. I think I decided on a couple of glow plugs in a loop below the lowest point in the bottom hose if I decide to go with a 12v system. run off my aux batt
 
palace said:
so I need to electronically close off the pre heater when the engine is running that should be easy :) (famous last words there lol)
Click to expand...

kenlowes tend to loose a lot of heat unless they are very well insulated, and there's not enough room to insulate them properly, so it's toasty when you jump in, then colder than usual 10 minutes later - pollack do some suitable 12v valves btw
 
well mine isnt so much for the warmth it is for starting at colder temps with veg oiland I want to heat the engine as opposed to the water in the rad till the thermostat opens :)
 
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