Freelander 1 POWER

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Rovergin

Member
Posts
34
Location
Devon
I've been scouring through the forum trying to find all the answers but I can't nail it all in to one place.
My Hippo arrives very soon and i want to get it running to its best.
The things I've found.
Swap to bmw cyclone separator.
Get silicone hoses
New MAF and Ron box.
Sort the egr.
Is there anything else?
 
Me, I'd stick with the cotton reel fluffy crankcase filter, and change it every year. It just seems to filter the oil out the blowby gasses better.

The synergy will make it more powerful, but can cause its own issues, like causing the HP pump to leak, as well was shorten the life of the clutch or auto box, depending on what you have.

Definitely fit a replacement Bosch MAF, if it's the original.

Better boost pipes are the way to go.

If the EGR causes issues, then blank it, if it's ok, then leave it alone.
 
Me, I'd stick with the cotton reel fluffy crankcase filter, and change it every year. It just seems to filter the oil out the blowby gasses better.

The synergy will make it more powerful, but can cause its own issues, like causing the HP pump to leak, as well was shorten the life of the clutch or auto box, depending on what you have.

Definitely fit a replacement Bosch MAF, if it's the original.

Better boost pipes are the way to go.

If the EGR causes issues, then blank it, if it's ok, then leave it alone.

Sorry for piggybacking
But would a remap cause problem with the HP pump
I was just about to get it done ?
 
Sorry for piggybacking
But would a remap cause problem with the HP pump
I was just about to get it done ?
The HP pump is under less strain with a remap, as unlike the Synergy, it doesn't boost the rail pressure significantly.

The Synergy increase rail pressure by fooling the ECM to seeing a lower rail pressure than actually exists, which I'm sure is the reason the HP pump seals fail, probably because the rail pressure exceeds the pump specification.

A remap should alter the injector opening times, so doesn't significantly increase rail pressure, which should keep the pump working within its limits.
 
Me, I'd stick with the cotton reel fluffy crankcase filter, and change it every year. It just seems to filter the oil out the blowby gasses better.

The synergy will make it more powerful, but can cause its own issues, like causing the HP pump to leak, as well was shorten the life of the clutch or auto box, depending on what you have.

Definitely fit a replacement Bosch MAF, if it's the original.

Better boost pipes are the way to go.

If the EGR causes issues, then blank it, if it's ok, then leave it alone.
Thank you for this!
 
The TD4 I think has a decent amount of power for what it is, with decent fuel economy.
I'd drive it as is for a while and see what you think of the power.
Full service first though. When changing parts do them one at a time so if there are any issues you're able to go over what you've done.
Good choice of car, pictures will be needed!
 
My Hippo arrives very soon and i want to get it running to its best.

1st step .. see post 8 by Nodge68 ..
that is very very important !! .. i.e. if the vcu seizes up .. it'll kill the ird and possibly the rear diff.
see :https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
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power ??
i'd suggest 1st .. the egr-delete modification .. makes a very good improvement on driveability ..
do the intake modification : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/intercooler-problem-mod.126484/
[ gives a much better / quicker .. response at / from .. lower rpm ..
[ 'cause airflow over the maf sensor is quicker ..

as mentioned a remap is easier on the high pressure fuel pump ..
however .. the maf compensation on the ron-box [synergy 2a] can be quite useful ..
(edit) and btw: in order to just-use-the-maf compensator ..
the fuel-rail harness must also be connected .. for elec. power-supply reasons ..
just turn the fuelling module ''off'' .. if desired ..

you might find that with just the egr 'n intake mod it will perform fine ..
[ i.e. better than stock-mode ]

never mix fuel additives .. as a chemical reaction can cause pump seal failure
[ i was warned against it .. i ignored that n' paid the price ]
be very careful when pressure washing the car .. as water can find its way in via the filler cap
and if the tank is brimmed up .. that water will mix in the fuel ..
'n that will kill hp.pumps and injectors ..
and .. using the synergy 2a to give more high-pressure simply will hasten the failure ..
[ at the end of the day .. said pressure is controlled by one's right foot ;-]

and .. fitting a straight thru exhaust back-box .. also helps
[ and it's not noisy ]
https://www.muddymods.com/collections/freelander-1/products/td4-performance-back-box

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Last edited:
am having mine remapped this friday
be a generic map .. not the rolling-road type

i shall report back after a road test .. or two ;-]
i.e. in how it compares to the ron-box
( as i had my r.b. on '10' for quite some miles )
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

been looking at this as well : [ web links ]
pedal-box
p.b.uk retail site
``````````````````````````````````````
in that it'd be nice to 'tune' the pedal
for right foot comfort on long journeys
which ..
were something i liked about the ron-box in use
[ no cruise control on mine ]

( Edit )
btw: the tuning box on that uk retail site
are the alter-the-pressure-readings type
like the ron-box
```````````````````````````````````````````
a.t.b.
`s`
 
Last edited:
am having mine remapped this friday
be a generic map .. not the rolling-road type

i shall report back after a road test .. or two ;-]
i.e. in how it compares to the ron-box
( as i had my r.b. on '10' for quite some miles )
``````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

been looking at this as well : [ web links ]
pedal-box
p.b.uk retail site
``````````````````````````````````````
in that it'd be nice to 'tune' the pedal
for right foot comfort on long journeys
which ..
were something i liked about the ron-box in use
[ no cruise control on mine ]

( Edit )
btw: the tuning box on that uk retail site
are the alter-the-pressure-readings type
like the ron-box
```````````````````````````````````````````
a.t.b.
`s`
Great stuff thanks. I cant wait to see what you get. How does the remap compate to ron box prise wise?
 
i found the stock tuning to be awful ..
in that .. even with a new m.a.f .. torque below 1800 rpm
was almost non-existent .. which meant ..
too much clutch slipping starting off uphill .. [inmo]
and just naff drive-ability overall
````````````
mods i've done have aimed solely at remedying just that
[ which has benefits up the rpm range ]
and .. due to 225/65/17 tyres .. gearing is a tad higher
[ 70mph in 5th be 2700rpm ]
so .. a good torque response from low rpm be quite beneficial
`````````````````````````
```````````````````````````
be a shame that the 'mafam' unit is no longer available from rover-ron
[ that were a maf compensator on-its-own .. no fueling circuitry ]

```````````````````````````````````````
 
Friday 7th jan.'22 .. re-map done ..

took 2 hours .. was more to the procedure than i expected ..
a mains powered device were hooked up to the battery whilst uploading.
hippo were taken for two short test drives ..
once prior to map-upload .. then after the upload ..
[ not by me ]

( edit 12th april .. comment deleted .. as it might have been incorrect )

the changed maps are for the injectors [ length of 'open' time ] ,
m.a.f. and turbo.

````````````````````

Today ..

80 mile test drive today in the Dales
suffice to say i be more than happy with the performance

ron-box / remap comparison :

the ron-box fuel settings have a split point at aprox 2500rpm
eg .. lo/med .. med/med .. hi/med .. hi/hi .. etc etc

the remap 'feels' like a ' hi/med+ ' on the ron-box

i generaly kept rpm quite below 2700 ..
loads of torque from idle rpm on-up ..

i did floor-it once .. 4th gear .. [ 225/65/17 tyre size ]
it managed 3000rpm-plus by the crest .. on this short-but-steepish-hill .. [ street-view g.map link ]
at that point it felt somewhat less bhp than the ron-box on a hi/hi setting ..
[ potential a good thing due to the left-hander at top of hill ]

````

btw: i did have the rb. maf-compensator 'on'
and using a bosc maf ..
results might be tad different with a pierburg maf
plus using the rb's highest maf-setting
[ normaly .. that's at setting '10' only .. on the r.b. ]

the rb.p.maf map is stronger at higher rpm ..
than the bosch rb.maf map ..
the bosch map be a tad stronger at the lower rpm range

```````

using a ron-box plus a stage1 remap ?

risk : .. melted piston crowns and turbo blades
i.e. more diesel fuel = higher exhaust gas temps.

fitting a pyrometer [ exhaust-gas-temp.-sensor ] would be advisable

```

the ron-box is/was available with a 3-way led dash switch
for switching-whist-driving ..

3 modes : [ quote ]

GREEN LED LIT : ECO1. The maf/map compensation remains operative at the level set by the rotary switch setting. The power map is designed for economy rather than performance and the throttle response will be milder as will torque below 2000rpm. Good for use on slippery roads & heavy urban driving.

CENTRE POSITION: NO LED LIT ECO 2/MED. Torque and throttle response slightly stronger than ECO. A good setting for day to day use and generally for best mpg. (On the Synergy 1 & 2b, the centre position is off)

RED LED LIT: POWER . The module uses whatever setting the Synergy module’s control knob is set to for both fuel (power) & on the 2a/b/e, also for air (maf/map compensation).

[ end quote ]

`````````````````

additional comparison comment [ lz link]

i'd certainly recommend the remap option :-]
and separately the ron-box .. but with an added 'caution' re. the fuel high-pressure system

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ozs.jpg

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ;-)
 
Last edited:
additional note :
i'm disregarding the pedal-box device at the moment ..
simply 'cause the pedal-response curve is near perfect at the moment
````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
`s`
 
Friday 7th jan.'22 .. re-map done ..

took 2 hours .. was more to the procedure than i expected ..
a mains powered device were hooked up to the battery whilst uploading.
hippo were taken for two short test drives ..
once prior to map-upload .. then after the upload ..
[ not by me ]

having the ron box connected .. but turned "Off"
presented No issue to the procedure ..

the changed maps are for the injectors [ length of 'open' time ] ,
m.a.f. and turbo.

````````````````````

Today ..

80 mile test drive today in the Dales
suffice to say i be more than happy with the performance

ron-box / remap comparison :

the ron-box fuel settings have a split point at aprox 2500rpm
eg .. lo/med .. med/med .. hi/med .. hi/hi .. etc etc

the remap 'feels' like a ' hi/med+ ' on the ron-box

i generaly kept rpm quite below 2700 ..
loads of torque from idle rpm on-up ..

i did floor-it once .. 4th gear .. [ 225/65/17 tyre size ]
it managed 3000rpm-plus by the crest .. on this short-but-steepish-hill .. [ street-view g.map link ]
at that point it felt somewhat less bhp than the ron-box on a hi/hi setting ..
[ potential a good thing due to the left-hander at top of hill ]

````

btw: i did have the rb. maf-compensator 'on'
and using a bosc maf ..
results might be tad different with a pierburg maf
plus using the rb's highest maf-setting
[ normaly .. that's at setting '10' only .. on the r.b. ]

the rb.p.maf map is stronger at higher rpm ..
than the bosch rb.maf map ..
the bosch map be a tad stronger at the lower rpm range

```````

using a ron-box plus a stage1 remap ?

risk : .. melted piston crowns and turbo blades
i.e. more diesel fuel = higher exhaust gas temps.

fitting a pyrometer [ exhaust-gas-temp.-sensor ] would be advisable

```

the ron-box is/was available with a 3-way led dash switch
for switching-whist-driving ..

3 modes : [ quote ]

GREEN LED LIT : ECO1. The maf/map compensation remains operative at the level set by the rotary switch setting. The power map is designed for economy rather than performance and the throttle response will be milder as will torque below 2000rpm. Good for use on slippery roads & heavy urban driving.

CENTRE POSITION: NO LED LIT ECO 2/MED. Torque and throttle response slightly stronger than ECO. A good setting for day to day use and generally for best mpg. (On the Synergy 1 & 2b, the centre position is off)

RED LED LIT: POWER . The module uses whatever setting the Synergy module’s control knob is set to for both fuel (power) & on the 2a/b/e, also for air (maf/map compensation).

[ end quote ]

`````````````````

additional comparison comment [ lz link]

i'd certainly recommend the remap option :-]
and separately the ron-box .. but with an added 'caution' re. the fuel high-pressure system

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
View attachment 256216
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ;-)
Great info, much appreciated.
So if you had to pick one system ron or remap what would you go for?
 
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