They are s2 screen hinges, s3 type are slightly inboard and are square.
Potential new Series 2a owner with questions on powerplant and drivetrain
- Thread starter Bezdonian
- Start date
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My main issue with the std diesel engine and motorway use is you will spend all your journey hanging around the hgvs, and down the south east that means a lot of lhd hgvs, add in winters coming, dark to and from work, need I say any more!
In a nutshell nothing will make any real difference.
Wildefalcon
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Super charge it, run on LPG, drop in nitrous. Rebuild every 30,000 miles.
Seriously? To get the best out of it, ensure the cam, skew gear and timing chain are 100%. They're usually not. Replace.
Then get the IP and injectors rebuilt.
Even at that, it's still a small indirect injection 3 bearing diesel pushing a heavy brick.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
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interesting the LWB is only 200kg heavier than the SWB, I had the 2286 diesel with overdrive, on a long trip, fully loaded I did got 25mpg, and 55mph easy 60mph as a push drop to 3rd uphills,
1100mile over week, main issue was losing oil , and ep90 out of geaboxes, the oil leaks was main reason for going to 200di so oil leaks gone , believe performance slightly better although not tested it
if timing , compression good, tappets set , injectors ok, they will stay like that no Tinkering , the weekly maintenance for me depending on your daily miles would be checking fluids and then if you find it’s not losing /using much that can be reduced also
its the other parts of the vehicle that need work even if just to maintain and improve and likely a long list ie brakes, wiring, hubs, derusting etc and these need doing no matter which engine in, im the owner that likes to tinker and improve condition even more so now as retired ,
so make a big todo list, get it running , see how it performs and enjoy the next steps
1100mile over week, main issue was losing oil , and ep90 out of geaboxes, the oil leaks was main reason for going to 200di so oil leaks gone , believe performance slightly better although not tested it
if timing , compression good, tappets set , injectors ok, they will stay like that no Tinkering , the weekly maintenance for me depending on your daily miles would be checking fluids and then if you find it’s not losing /using much that can be reduced also
its the other parts of the vehicle that need work even if just to maintain and improve and likely a long list ie brakes, wiring, hubs, derusting etc and these need doing no matter which engine in, im the owner that likes to tinker and improve condition even more so now as retired ,
so make a big todo list, get it running , see how it performs and enjoy the next steps
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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A 2286cc diesel needs less maintenance that a Tdi, because it doesn't have a timing belt. It has a chain which self tensions.
The oil and filters are also less expensive than those for a Tdi.
300bhp/ton
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It will respond the same as any other engine to the same kinds of tuning. But in reality I suspect there isn't a huge amount of potential with it, unless you plan to massively increase displacement and/or add forced induction.
In theory an electric fan and removal of the viscous one should result in a net gain. Although bear in mind an electric fan will increase on the electrical load and generating electric from the engine. However, in reality I'd be amazed if you would be able to notice any such gains from the drivers seat.
IIRC the 2.25 is rated at 59 or 60hp. Although that is probably an optimistic rating using a slightly different standard to todays engines. If say the electric fan netted you a 3% gain in power. That would only be 1.8hp.
Wildefalcon
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Plus it's a long crank shaft three bearing engine, increasing the explosion in the engine will cause those bearings to wear quite fast. I think the rebuild interval was quite short in standard tune.
Wildefalcon
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A TDI does make sense. It's not quite a bolt in job, but, with an over drive and obsessive sound proofing, can be a bearable place at sixty seventy mph. Ditto a 2.5 petrol, which is an easier conversion.
Bezdonian
Active Member
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I'm going to start a new thread about this project, but feel free to add anything on this one.
steve2286w
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would you put it in the members projects section, I’ll look forward to seeing your refurb
Bezdonian
Active Member
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- Canterbury
If you want it reliable I would suggest you rip out all the non std stuff and start again.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
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Agreed. Be prepared for horrors.
Wildefalcon
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And price a new loom, might be cheaper. And more reliable.
Bezdonian
Active Member
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- 89
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- Canterbury
Agreed, I’m planning to buy a new loom from autosparks with some extras.
I have added mods on mine over the years, and it I was doing it again I would have a separate fuse panel for anything add on, with one large relay providing power for add on stuff, so if you get any issues you can just flick the relay power off and keep on driving.
Toonarf
Active Member
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- Hesketh Bank West Lancashire
Sorry to jump on your thread, and I know everyone has an opinion but I need to ask this question, Why is a TDi seemingly quite acceptable in a Defender but too noisy and harsh to use in a Series? Is a Defender so radically different from a series in construction? It is something that puzzles me.
Agian sorry for jumping your thread.
David
300bhp/ton
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No they aren't radically different. But having had both and my brother also having a Tdi 90 at the same time I had a a Tdi 88, there was a distinct difference. A factory Tdi 90 is also generally better than converted ones. Even if you add extra sound proofing.
With a Series you have a different gearbox and drivetrain. I'd guess this must for part of it. Plus, while they look similar on the outside. An engine bay of a 90 is actually quite radically different.
I also know a few people that have had Series 1's with Tdi's in. They have since gone V8 or other petrol.
