Poor breaks, help needes....

si67 · Apr 9, 2008

I am trying to get to the bottom of a problem with the breaks on my 110 CSW.
Last year all the break system was renewed and is still mechanically in good order, yet the breaks are poor.
The vehicle is a little heavier than normal with a front winch and bumper and a 6.5 GMC turbo diesel engine, so it may simply be down to the weight.
Does anyone have suggestions at improving the breaks, am toying with the idea of EBC carbon kevlar pads, but it's a shot in the dark.
Also what is the going rate for a rear salisbury axle with disc brakes?

Thanks in advance
Regards
Simon

slob · Apr 9, 2008

if you reckon its down to yer "LITTLE" heavier front putting discs on the back int gonna help

david451 · Apr 9, 2008

si67 said:
I am trying to get to the bottom of a problem with the breaks on my 110 CSW.
Last year all the break system was renewed and is still mechanically in good order, yet the breaks are poor.
The vehicle is a little heavier than normal with a front winch and bumper and a 6.5 GMC turbo diesel engine, so it may simply be down to the weight.
Does anyone have suggestions at improving the breaks, am toying with the idea of EBC carbon kevlar pads, but it's a shot in the dark.
Also what is the going rate for a rear salisbury axle with disc brakes?

Thanks in advance
Regards
Simon

All vehicles were designed with a braking system that would operate properly when fully loaded or not. I think you need to look again at your braking system.

Stick it on a brake tester and see what the readings are, and if it identifies a fault. Sure your servo is functioning properly, switch off your engine then depress your brake pedal several times. The pedal should go hard after about 6 or so presses. (you are exhausting the vacuum) If there's no defference the servo could be ****ed or the engine vacuum pump is faulty or associated piping etc.

yella · Apr 9, 2008

ffs hes put a gmc engine up front. you expect his standard landy brakes to still be as efficient with that extra weight over the front axle. if hes fully laden the weight is over the rear, which, by laws of physics, reduces the weight on the front.

slob · Apr 9, 2008

what about if he drove in reverse with his propshaft disconnected would that help reduce the front end weight

yella · Apr 9, 2008

aye but then he would need to fully load the back (which would now become the front) to counter balance the weight so that his front(which used to be his back)brakes would work without locking up

Grippa · Apr 9, 2008

Wot abart if he...............nah, nevva mind, ah cun't even be bovvered ter be a bastid ternite!

slob · Apr 9, 2008

could he not just slacken the bleed nipples abit to release some pressure and have a jerry can of brake fluid on the roof with a pipe running down into the reservoir.

GRUNT · Apr 9, 2008

Once more unto the break dear friends once more, or close up the wall with our English dead.

Oh no that was breach want it..........Ah fook I'm off fer a Kit Kat.

yella · Apr 9, 2008

ffs yer begginin ter sound like leslie phillips. yerl be sayin "ding dong" after everything next

david451 · Apr 9, 2008

yella said:
ffs hes put a gmc engine up front. you expect his standard landy brakes to still be as efficient with that extra weight over the front axle. if hes fully laden the weight is over the rear, which, by laws of physics, reduces the weight on the front.

He never said what was in it before, and no idea what the difference in weight is between the two, but he quoted it as slightly heavier.

But if there is a massive difference then not only should he be looking at brake to weight ratios but his suspension as well since this has an impact on the vehicle to brake properly.

yella · Apr 9, 2008

si67 said:
I am trying to get to the bottom of a problem with the breaks on my 110 CSW.
Last year all the break system was renewed and is still mechanically in good order, yet the breaks are poor.
The vehicle is a little heavier than normal with a front winch and bumper and a 6.5 GMC turbo diesel engine, so it may simply be down to the weight.
Does anyone have suggestions at improving the breaks, am toying with the idea of EBC carbon kevlar pads, but it's a shot in the dark.
Also what is the going rate for a rear salisbury axle with disc brakes?

Thanks in advance
Regards
Simon

well this is post 1 and the bit in red is a bit of a clue, now, what were you saying????

slob · Apr 9, 2008

see ah always sed ladybird shouldn't have brought out their series of books on "how cars work"

Sean · Apr 9, 2008

slob said:
see ah always sed ladybird shouldn't have brought how their series of books on "how cars work"

is that were he learnt how to spell brakes

si67 · Apr 9, 2008

ok i'll grab my tin hat... sheessh, thought it was a simple question, so i need to drive the lanny on it's roof to relieve the front axle of it's laden weight, fair enough, i'll keep you informed if i have a breakthrough....
Chin up and keep smiling
PS. didn't know you had to be literate to fix lannys. lol

david451 · Apr 10, 2008

si67 said:
ok i'll grab my tin hat... sheessh, thought it was a simple question, so i need to drive the lanny on it's roof to relieve the front axle of it's laden weight, fair enough, i'll keep you informed if i have a breakthrough....
Chin up and keep smiling
PS. didn't know you had to be literate to fix lannys. lol

No but a skin like an aligator helps, if you come on here, usually if they can't fix it they resort to abuse. Like being back at primary school really, but yer can't punch them in the mush.

I don't suppose you can get a bigger servo, when you say your brakes are poor, usually in an over weight situation you get overheating, but you just say they are generally poor. A poor imbalance front to rear I imagine would be indicated with one set of brakes working harder than the others, and since the front takes most of the braking, it must be smoky joe. When you drive it again feel the brakes to see if the rear are actually doing anything, or if they are cold.

Another thing we did when we were younger was swap wheel cylinders for more powerful ones, same shoes but increased braking.

You got a load sensing valve on that vehicle,? perhaps you can adjust that to direct the pressure to where you need it, but It would be interesting to see what's happening on a brake tester first. If the front is sitting down and there is a load sensing valve then this would be simulating a heavy braking situation, which would be transferring the pressure away from the rear preventing the rear to lock up and what it was intended to do, but not what you need.

Hope I'm not talking a load of **** here I'm kind of ready for my bed.

Good luck.

P.s I kind of liked the ladybird books, but don't remember the Fat Cat fixing landies.

Sean · Apr 10, 2008

david451 said:
No but a skin like an aligator helps, if you come on here, usually if they can't fix it they resort to abuse. Like being back at primary school really, but yer can't punch them in the mush.

you think that was abuse ?

Bushtoy · Apr 10, 2008

easy way to tell if yer brake balance is orf is ta pump once or twice b4 applying brakes....if braking improves, yer front/rear bias is ferked up

slob · Apr 10, 2008

david451 said:
. Like being back at primary school really, but yer can't punch them in the mush.
.

violence? thats usually the response of those with limited cerebral capacity

[/quote]

Hope I'm not talking a load of **** here I'm kind of ready for my bed.

[/quote]
so is that

slob · Apr 10, 2008

so why was it all renewed and are yer sure it was all renewed. if the pads wint bedded in properly that can cuase glazing or hardening of the pad surfaces which would give yer poor braking.
if your sure all the calipers are working as they should and that yer have no air in the system try taking the pads out and roughing them up, (no david451!! not that way) just get some glasspaper and give em the once over to remove any glazing that may have built up.
if yer still got problems after that come back and we'll abu....er! help yer somemore

Poor breaks, help needes....

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