Hmm, very topical! I use a K&N panel in my R25 and will fit a K&N pod to my FL1.
I'm in the process of getting my FL1 1.8 going. I'm taking the opportunity to do some mod's: I've deburred the plastic inlet manifold and checked the port sizes [ the plastic is slightly smaller than the alloy inlet side],
enshrouded the valve area in the head [both inlet & exhaust], and trimmed a wee bit [ 'back cut' ] off each valve to aid air flow,
The port's runners have been opened up a bit - maybe a couple of mm,
Trimmed any protruding valve seat bases to make a smoother air path and made an 'eased' the radius in each throat where there is a straight machined faces [ most noticeable on the short radius side of the throats],
Carved a bit out either side of the valve guide boss in each throat and trimmed of the valve guide itself [ shortened it a bit and rounded it off],
Port matched the exhaust side and removed any protruding lips or sharp edges and weld splatter right back to the first muffler,
fitted a decat pipe and will fit a K&N Apollo filter with a CAF from inside the front left guard [its end point just begs for a snorkel extension through the guard and up the LH A pillar - can anyone comment on that?]
My next plan is to explore what can be achieved by careful att'n to valve timing but without buying those expensive Verner pulleys.
My aim is to have a free breathing 'torquey' motor. I may gain some power and hopefully better MPG. Will let you know how it all goes.
Sounds like some sensible mods.
Have you thought about some 255° cams? These are designed to improve low and mid rpm torque.
Timing without verniers is relatively easy as you have a couple of options. You can use offset lock pins or set the timing bang on and drill your own lock pins through the pulleys, into the cams.
The factory markings are always out by a couple of degrees each way, so setting the cams correctly will improve the engine.