Parabolic springs

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Broomel

Member
Posts
27
Location
Somerset
Hi all,

A few years back after a little research it seemed the rocky mountain parabolic springs were the best thing since sliced bread, therefore muggings here ordered the full spring and damper combo.

Fast forward a few years and I eventually got the land rover finished and on the road, since then over the period of one year I managed approx 2500 miles in the vehicle.

Over those 2500 miles of light usage (a hand full of green lanes and a few tip runs, general classic car stuff) the springs have flattened and dropped drastically.

I now have a land rover where the rear tyres will rub with even one person in the back and the front springs constantly rattle against and damage the chassis, so essentially not usable.
Pictures to follow but I approximate the car is 4"or 5" inch lower than when I originally built it.

It's almost if the tempering or peening the components was carried out incorrectly?

Obviously the parts are outside of warranty now so I expect little support but has anyone else experienced such issues with the rocky mountain components ?
 
Hi all,

A few years back after a little research it seemed the rocky mountain parabolic springs were the best thing since sliced bread, therefore muggings here ordered the full spring and damper combo.

Fast forward a few years and I eventually got the land rover finished and on the road, since then over the period of one year I managed approx 2500 miles in the vehicle.

Over those 2500 miles of light usage (a hand full of green lanes and a few tip runs, general classic car stuff) the springs have flattened and dropped drastically.

I now have a land rover where the rear tyres will rub with even one person in the back and the front springs constantly rattle against and damage the chassis, so essentially not usable.
Pictures to follow but I approximate the car is 4"or 5" inch lower than when I originally built it.

It's almost if the tempering or peening the components was carried out incorrectly?

Obviously the parts are outside of warranty now so I expect little support but has anyone else experienced such issues with the rocky mountain components ?

No, but I have never fitted any.

Always had good results with standard leaf springs on Series landrovers. Regularly greased with graphite grease the ride is OK, and they last for donkeys years.
 
I have heard of others, I'm a strong fan of the orginal multi-leafs, my LWB carries a lot and still rides where it should. I did learn the same lesson you have about buying things and not using them before the warrenty runs out, I now buy just before I need so if it fails i can get a replacment. Live and learn! For expensive things I program 1 month less into my diary to make sure i check it before its out of warrenty, did this is a 3yr Bosch 110ah battery and got it swapped 3 days before the end of the 3 years, saved over £100. Re your springs, can you get them re shaped and heat treated?
 
Getting them re shaped and re heat treated (you could say correctly heat treated) is my next task.
Just struggling to find enthusiasm to do so on springs with such little use.
All the bushes are shagged also so may just replace with GB spring items.
 
Have to admit I was thinking of changing to parabolic springs but the originals still look ok and the car sits at a good height. What is it that they say if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Lol.

Norrie.
 
I've got my front leaf springs off at the moment for a refurb. They don't look too old and have 9" height as they are stood against the garage wall. I'll go over the separated leaves with a wire wheel before either oiling or greasing. I saw graphite grease mentioned above. Others have said old engine oil.? (Wouldn't hijack the thread if I didn't think the OP had got their answer.. ;))
 
I've got my front leaf springs off at the moment for a refurb. They don't look too old and have 9" height as they are stood against the garage wall. I'll go over the separated leaves with a wire wheel before either oiling or greasing. I saw graphite grease mentioned above. Others have said old engine oil. Does it matter? (Wouldn't hijack the thread if I didn't think the OP had got their answer.. ;))

Graphite grease was specified in the original manuals, and works well. Stays on the springs a bit better than old oil, and is cheap if bought in a 5 kilo tub.
 
I've got my front leaf springs off at the moment for a refurb. They don't look too old and have 9" height as they are stood against the garage wall. I'll go over the separated leaves with a wire wheel before either oiling or greasing. I saw graphite grease mentioned above. Others have said old engine oil.? (Wouldn't hijack the thread if I didn't think the OP had got their answer.. ;))
I used 'Chainwax' a wax based lube for motorcycle chains. Having stripped and cleaned each leaf I spread a thin coat of chainwax on like spreading butter on bread. Being waxy it stays put and has been on for about 9 years. (Standard, heavy duty springs).
 
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Not much there is there? I could believe two leaves flatten faster than nine. When new, I don't doubt a parabolic setup gives a smoother ride than traditional leaf springs. So I suppose it's a trade-off - unless someone can attest their own parabolics lasted much longer..
 
Clearly something wrong there, no way should the springs be that "flat". Of more concern is the fact that the spring eye has made contact with the chassis, they should hit the bump stops long before that happens, almost as if the spring eye to eye is too long.
Not much there is there? I could believe two leaves flatten faster than nine. When new, I don't doubt a parabolic setup gives a smoother ride than traditional leaf springs. So I suppose it's a trade-off - unless someone can attest their own parabolics lasted much longer..

Thats exactly what parabolics give you, a smoother ride. There durability is dependent on the materials used and the processing of that material.

I
 
Thats exactly what parabolics give you, a smoother ride. There durability is dependent on the materials used and the processing of that material.

The ride of standard series springs is not unpleasant, within the limitations of any leaf spring.
And what you say about materials is true, but common sense would suggest that multiple leaves will tend to be stronger than two leaves.
 
The art/science of correctly tempering leaf springs appears to be almost a dying art... I've heard so many stories of parabolic springs flattening out very quickly, all makes and types. I remember having a rear spring on my own Yugo 45 break; I sent it to a 'spring specialist' to have a new leaf made and fitted. Within days the rear end of my car sagged, the new leaf having flattened out, it seems it wasn't tempered at all... In the end I got a spring from a Fiorino van from the scrap yard and fitted that.
I wonder what GB springs would have to say about this universal problem? They do make parabolics don't they?
 
My mate fitted a set of RM....crap...way to high UJ at a crazy angle.
Paras got a bad name when supplier started importing crap springs from india...sagged very badly....cheap as chips to buy...wonder why.

Fit a set of British GB Springs paras and they will last for life...mine have been on well over 10 years...still like new.
 
Dunno what make Henry’s are as he came with them fitted but they have been fine for the last 3 years. Hard to remember but it all feels much more civilised than my last one without diabolics.
 
Those springs pictured look like lightweight competition ones,sold for trialer's Had some on series one trialer at one time. Had to fit anti tramp bars because they were so flexible.Front ones are the wrong length.
 
After a day of green laning yesterday i can no longer get my first between the tryre and wheel arch.
I will contact GB springs today and get a complete set ordered.

Thanks for your help guys.
 
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