painting your rear etc..
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yella
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when i done mine i used wrought iron railing paint, it looks good and doesn't react, there is a shop in prestatyn that sells it for a quid a tin 
discomania
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I had to sort out the back crossmember on my 90, and I used black wroght iron paint aswell, its really good, really prepare the back well, and apply it with a roller, this means no bristles or lines.
I would give it a few coats aswell, no point in getting it looking good, then a chip starts the rust again!
I would give it a few coats aswell, no point in getting it looking good, then a chip starts the rust again!
When i painted my series i used machine ennable paint and just brushed is straight on. If you use a good brush then you can get a good surface. didnt bother with a preimer just gave it 2 coats. I also did the chassis and that was still going strong a year afterwards when i sold it
fishface220
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Hammerite for me aswell. A couple of good coats should make it look all pretty once again.
bitstreamuk
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Use the spray cans of hammer finish Hammerite. I used the paint on stuff first time round and it never really looked good, the spray was alot easier.
slob
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FrogFart said:
whats wrong with the smooth stuff? i just bought a ****load for me 111, would i be best to take it back and change it fur hammer finish?
There's nothing wrong with the smooth Hammerite - it is superb stuff. BUT, you must apply it according to the instructions on the tin. Can't remember the details - you'll have to check, but it's something like you must put the coats on as quick as possible as soon as they are dry enough rather than leaving loads of time between coats. It's something to do with not being able to put another coat on once the first coat has started to 'cure'. That's the point with Hammerite, it cures in a sort of chemical way rather than drying like normal paint.
I once re-coated something without reading the instructions about timing etc and all the paint went wrinkly.
Just follow the destructions on the tin and you'll get a great result. It's superb stuff.
Oh, don't forget to buy the proper thinners as well. Nothing else seems to get it off brushes.
Have fun!
I once re-coated something without reading the instructions about timing etc and all the paint went wrinkly.
Just follow the destructions on the tin and you'll get a great result. It's superb stuff.
Oh, don't forget to buy the proper thinners as well. Nothing else seems to get it off brushes.
Have fun!
slob
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yeah, i know all that , but don't the hammer finish dry/cure in the same way? if so, what's the beef with using smooth?
littledude
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I used smoothrite but in a satin finish, applyed it with a small textured roller and dry rollered it when nearly set.
It gave it the factory look! (well that was what I was after) and it look good for ages after.
It gave it the factory look! (well that was what I was after) and it look good for ages after.
slob
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maybe this time fartingfrog will tell us why he says "don't use the smooth"FrogFart said:
unless of course its just something he heard in the pub one night when he over heard some wimmin talking about what comdoms they used
slob
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are you sure they wasn't talking about their make-up? i hear they're a rough bunch from round your way. having to use a trowel for make-up application
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