Painting underside of Defender?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Edward Green

Edward Green

Member
Posts
66
Location
Dorset
Hi all

Recently picked up a 110 from withams, the chassis is in good condition and would like to keep it that way. i don't have 400 quid laying around the house (she would demand it be spent on a new bathroom or some nonsense if i did) to get it waxoiled before the winter really kicks in. i have seen a fair few ex mod defenders have painted undersides, anyone know how painting under there with a tin of nato green compares to waxoil? better/worse?

Thanks,

Ed
 
tottot said:
Cheapest way is spray with a 50/50 mix of fresh engine oil and diesel inside and out, and then do not park on any posh driveways for a couple of days.:)
Click to expand...
Thanks hadnt considered that does it eventually dry to the point that you could work under there without getting covered in s**t?
 
After a few days the drips stop coming, I drive a 26 year old 90 which I have had since it was three years old, still has original rear cross member and only had a few small patch's like on outer ends of outrigger's.
Wash, let dry and spray once a year. Plus if you need to do some thing major underneath some degreaser and a pressure wash and all is clean. Farm vehicle next to the sea.[Note avatar, It's the back of beyond lighthouse that Kevin Bacon says you can get an EE mobile signal at HA HA ]o_O
 
Last edited:
tottot said:
After a few days the drips stop coming, I drive a 26 year old 90 which I have had since it was three years old, still has original rear cross member and only had a few small patch's like on outer ends of outrigger's.
Wash, let dry and spray once a year. Plus if you need to do some thing major underneath some degreaser and a pressure wash and all is clean. Farm vehicle next to the sea.[Note avatar, It's the back of beyond lighthouse that Kevin Bacon says you can get an EE mobile signal at HA HA ]o_O
Click to expand...


hey if it can handle Bacon's salty aired back-end who am I to argue?!
 
I painted the underside of mine with hammerite. Cleaned it back first with wires brushes etc.

Best thing though is to jetwash your chassis and all the nooks and crannies really thoroughly regularly to prevent damp mud sitting on the steel and corroding it out.

As for inside the chassis waxoyl or dinitrol is easy to apply at home. Just park it on a big tarp to not muck up your driveway lol
 
I Waxoiled mine myself. I heated the waxoil in a bucket of very hot water then used a spray gun to put it on and inject it into areas the spray didn't reach inside the chassis. Did mine about six years ago. I will do it again next spring. I used a power washer to clean the chassis before applying the Waxoil. A normal winter here is like a bad one in the UK. We are normally in the snow line for three months. The Chassis is 26 years old.
 
Both my local LR lndys charge £150 for a full chassis Waxoyl.
Pretty good job they did too, on both our Defenders.
Might be worth having a ring round, if there are any near to you.
 
Right then,
No hamerite, it's too hard and chips off, it's also bloody expensive.

If you have the time and ennergy, rotary wire brush everything you can that will rot.
5 coats of bonda high zinc rust primer
3 coats of chassie black.

Spray it on following the instructions on the bonda can, spray cause it's easier to get it everywhere.

Chassie black can be any half decent brand from a paint factor.

Sorted my classic for the last 10 years.

If you don't have time spray it with diesel engin oil mix which I would do if I did not have a posh drive, it's the best way.
 
Edward Green said:
Hi all

Recently picked up a 110 from withams, the chassis is in good condition and would like to keep it that way. i don't have 400 quid laying around the house (she would demand it be spent on a new bathroom or some nonsense if i did) to get it waxoiled before the winter really kicks in. i have seen a fair few ex mod defenders have painted undersides, anyone know how painting under there with a tin of nato green compares to waxoil? better/worse?

Thanks,

Ed
Click to expand...

Painting is probably better, but it will be a mission to do a good job. Not going to happen in an afternoon.

Pretty much like he says above, really, except I use corroless primer and enamel.

Rub down,wire brush, sand. Then thorough wash off, get the dust off. Then ideally three coats of preferred primer, and two topcoat.

It is possible to do it in sections to spread the pain, but prepping thoroughly under the vehicle is always going to be a tedious, dirty job.
 
My classic was in the workshop with no axles on raised about 2' off the floor and I hated every minute of wire brushing.
I would bank on 4 to 6 weekends plus painting every day when the primer is going on.
 
Edward Green said:
Hi all

Recently picked up a 110 from withams, the chassis is in good condition and would like to keep it that way. i don't have 400 quid laying around the house (she would demand it be spent on a new bathroom or some nonsense if i did) to get it waxoiled before the winter really kicks in. i have seen a fair few ex mod defenders have painted undersides, anyone know how painting under there with a tin of nato green compares to waxoil? better/worse?

Thanks,

Ed
Click to expand...

Any rust will be inside the chassis rails, where you can't see it.

IMHO, if it's clean and rust free on the outside at the mo, then forget about the outside. Make sure all the drain holes are clear, and wash the chassis out with a power washer. Keep your eye on what comes out - if its rusty sh*t, then something needs doing quickly - ( like proper rust treatment inside ), if its just muddy water, as one might expect if the MOD have looked after it, then that's good.

Waxoyl is, IMHO, not as good as it was, and the alternatives, like dinitrol and Bilt Hamber are much much better IME. My own preference is for Bilt hambers Dynax s-50 cavity wax in aerosols, with the long cavity injection tube - less than £100 will do your chassis, and should make it last very well.

Any of the waxes are very different animals to paint - most of them are self healing. The oil treatment idea works, and works well, but the mess is unworkable IME, YMMV.
 
pete1987RRC said:
My classic was in the workshop with no axles on raised about 2' off the floor and I hated every minute of wire brushing.
I would bank on 4 to 6 weekends plus painting every day when the primer is going on.
Click to expand...

Got mine up about the same on axle stands and big wood blocks. Horrible even with goggles and a mask.

And then there is all the drying time.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Any rust will be inside the chassis rails, where you can't see it.

IMHO, if it's clean and rust free on the outside at the mo, then forget about the outside. Make sure all the drain holes are clear, and wash the chassis out with a power washer. Keep your eye on what comes out - if its rusty sh*t, then something needs doing quickly - ( like proper rust treatment inside ), if its just muddy water, as one might expect if the MOD have looked after it, then that's good.

Waxoyl is, IMHO, not as good as it was, and the alternatives, like dinitrol and Bilt Hamber are much much better IME. My own preference is for Bilt hambers Dynax s-50 cavity wax in aerosols, with the long cavity injection tube - less than £100 will do your chassis, and should make it last very well.

Any of the waxes are very different animals to paint - most of them are self healing. The oil treatment idea works, and works well, but the mess is unworkable IME, YMMV.
Click to expand...

Endoscope through the holes is good to see what is inside beforehand, and to check results after.
 
Whenever you do an oil change save both the engine and geabox oils, mix it with a bit of doozil and spray on inside and out.
Do the insides first and if you can block any holes, it is possible to coat almost the whole of the chassis interior by filling it up and going for a drive over the rough!
After a week or so, drqain off and spray the outside.
If you are using an oil mix, park on a tarp, and have plenty of washing up liquid and washing powder mixed into a paste to remove any overspray from your nice, clean drive!
 
Oldseadog said:
Whenever you do an oil change save both the engine and geabox oils, mix it with a bit of doozil and spray on inside and out.
Do the insides first and if you can block any holes, it is possible to coat almost the whole of the chassis interior by filling it up and going for a drive over the rough!
After a week or so, drqain off and spray the outside.
If you are using an oil mix, park on a tarp, and have plenty of washing up liquid and washing powder mixed into a paste to remove any overspray from your nice, clean drive!
Click to expand...

I don't agree with this for a number of reasons.
1. environmental reasons
2. Biker safety

It just isn't necessary, dispose of correctly and use something like dinitrol the insides of the chassis
 
Oldseadog said:
Whenever you do an oil change save both the engine and geabox oils, mix it with a bit of doozil and spray on inside and out.
Do the insides first and if you can block any holes, it is possible to coat almost the whole of the chassis interior by filling it up and going for a drive over the rough!
After a week or so, drqain off and spray the outside.
If you are using an oil mix, park on a tarp, and have plenty of washing up liquid and washing powder mixed into a paste to remove any overspray from your nice, clean drive!
Click to expand...

flat said:
I don't agree with this for a number of reasons.
1. environmental reasons
2. Biker safety

It just isn't necessary, dispose of correctly and use something like dinitrol the insides of the chassis
Click to expand...

OSD does say to have the drain holes plugged. But I do agree about environmental issues, used oil poured all over isnt good in several ways.
If I do use old oil for rustproofing, which I do sometimes on ag machines, I always use gear oil, because I have read that sump oil has a lot of water and acids in it.

I do think OSDs tip about the plugs and driving around is a good one, that is what I did on my landy, using Dinitrol. It left an excellent coating in the chassis, and has held up well for five years, film still very visible, and no corrosion coming through, seen with an endoscope!
 
in 2007 i painted the chassis on my 90 as it was in good condition (light surface corrosion) and worth saving i spent a couple of quid on a good long jest wash then wire brush and sanding followed by another jet wash

Then painted it 1 litter of Jenoseel £25 (2 coats) followed by a coat of hamerite black 9 years later apart from the bottom edge of the rear cross member and a chip i didn't touch up no rust has started or come through anywhere else !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

vasimone
Painting the chassis of my 6x6 Defender in Ghana
Replies
1
Views
690
payydg
payydg
J
Ex-RAF 90 with Rusty underside in need of some treatment
Replies
0
Views
574
Jesterr6216
J
T
300TDI - Military Soft Top
Replies
8
Views
3K
gemsdad
gemsdad
lucifus
Goodbye 90, hello 110 project
14 15 16
Replies
308
Views
101K
flat
flat
adies_v8
Rebuild Project Completed - 1985 V8 90
Replies
13
Views
5K
adies_v8
adies_v8
Back
Top