Painting Behind The Rear Crossmember?

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Bailes1992

Member
Posts
31
Location
Bridgend, South Wales
My Father bought a MY97 90" 300TDi County about 2 years ago. Since then it's had a full service, timing belt and a clutch but it's only done about 1500miles and generally neglected and looking sorry for itself. However, it's a solid car, runs very well and even passed an MOT with no advisories last month.
I'm planning on adopting the Landy for 12-18 months and planning on tidying it up cosmetically. I'm going to do a Rustoleum 'Rolled-On' paint job on it and probably change the colour to a dark blue but was wondering how the hell I'm going to paint behind these?



Luckily all the rust on the rear crossmember is just surface however I have noticed that it's full of leaves and twigs. Any easy way of getting these out before I pump it with some underseal? I was planning on just painting the outside of the crossmember in some hammerite smooth or similar after a good rub down.
 
Get yourself a full waterproof suit, and pressurewash everything underneath, and any bits that are still there youo can usually poke out with an old screwdirver.
It's easy enoughto take the back door off and sand/fill/prime/paint it, then blather the hinges wiith grease befgore you put it back on!
Rub down, prime and paint the cross member and use a good-ish paint tyo finish off.
If you can, undo the mounts and stick a bit of rubber or plastic insulation between the bracket and the body to prevent bi-metallic induced bubbling of the alloy body.
Hammerite isn't the best to use as it hardens and flakes due to the flexing of the chassis. I sugget that you consider using Plasticote or similar.
 
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When he bought it it had been freshly undersealed and the rear cross member painted and looked good but hasn't held up well to the UV at all.
20150726_182711_zpsjdbdbgcb.jpg

Does the crossmember actually flex enough to cause hammerite to crack? Really? i could understand it would chip easilly underneath, but crack? Surley not. I do have a fair bit of epoxy primer 2pack in garage so I may take it rack back to bare metal and epoxy it first and finish with any aerosol satin black.
 
I presume you are using "underseal" as some "shorthand" for something else? I hope so, as underseal is about the worst thing known to man to put anywhere near a vehicle.

Do a search on here about rust treatment - there is loads of info.....

plenty of decent products out there from the likes of bilt-hamber / dinitrol / etc.....
 
How do you open your rear door with the number plate like that???

I painted my rear cross member with NATO green paint - went on fine and has only chipped where I had been careless loading it/reversing etc
 
Paint is nice on the outside but they rot from the inside out, any old paint will do so long as you use a decent primer, slide underneath and look at the inner face of the cross member and the inner face outboard of the chassis, weirdly they also hole at the top as well!
Sadly no matter what you do wont stop the rot forever, but it can slow it down considerably.
Make sure any of the threaded or plain holes in the bottom face are clear.
 
I reckon its the guys trailer plate as a temporary job as the sticky bits are still there for the original square one.
 
Many people suggest using POR 15 on the chassis, which I've bought...and then decided to take it all apart and galvanise the whole chassis. If you want to keep your Landy for ages get the chassis galvanised - it will last for a long time. Doing it now before it rots means you won't have to buy a new chassis. You will need to get it galvanised twice in order to get rid of the gunk inside the chassis...not sure exactly how it works, but that's what i've been told. Just trailored my 110 300tdi 1997 to the bloke that will do it for me...
 
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