P38 Vibration..U/V joint looks culprit.

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m80kmb

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Had a real good furtle around underneath and looks like rear U/V joint on front drive propshaft is on the way out, definite movement/lateral play on the joints when you try to turn propshaft by hand. joints are £14.99 a pair on web from specialist so I hope that cost ain't to great to fix..BUT..has anybody any experience of doing such a job themselves..?
I reckon I could do it but would welcome any advice on how to go about removing the propshaft and what's involved before attempting to undo all the nuts I can see. All input appreciated and I'll post results when done!

Loked on rangerorvers net for info but can't find anything on U/J replacement.

cheers
 
its an hours job at the most - piece of **** - all you need is a socket set, open ended spanner set and a vice. If yu really want to go to town and respray the prop and flanges with Hammerite - 2 hours tops.

unless you are in Kernow ;)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
its an hours job at the most - piece of **** - all you need is a socket set, open ended spanner set and a vice. If yu really want to go to town and respray the prop and flanges with Hammerite - 2 hours tops.

unless you are in Kernow ;)
Click to expand...


Thanks for that, I must be looking at it through difficult eyes! Do you not need to remove the chassis cross member to get at the bolts on ther rearwards U/J? Thats a bitch as you need a special tool to spread the chassis rails for it to drop out when its unbolted.

I can see the front U/J is easy enough just need two 14mm spanners to undo the 4 bolts. Does whole shaft slide to the rear ( upwards) to come away from front diff.? If that all works, fine, but how do you undo the rearwards U/J, I cannot see how you can get spanners in, as chassis crossmember is obstructing it and there isn't room to use socket set? Am I missing something?

Cheers
 
4 year old bump but give me a moment... ;)

I could really do with some help on this before I have to give up and send it to a garage!

I too have a failed front shaft, rear uj and can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the bolts. Seems to be 14mm bolts with lock nuts but I just can't get access - I can't get a socket on the nuts as the uj itself is in the way, and no room on the bolt as its so close to the box. So open ended spanner only on the nuts which even with liberal application of blowtorch isn't shifting it. Just don't have the leverage/ access.

What's the best way?

Cheers all!
 
Try this is so so handy you will also need a pair of circlip pliers . When you turn the propshaft you can get an open ended spanner( ring end)on the bolt side and use the propshaft tool on the bolt side this has a narrow shank for this job, you need a wheel raised and the hand brake off that will allow you to turn the prop to the position required to put the tools on when you find that position get the extra pair of hands to lower the wheel to make the Process easier. And again for each of the four bolts at one end, don't fully undo the last of the four and start on the opposite end. Once off only do one side of the uj at a time circlips out, the best fitting socket to push a cup out and a larger one on the opposite side large enough to let the cup out. A decent vice should suffice .http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=250424471693&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=49916107096
 
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It's slightly to big it's mm 14 always take the uj connected to the propshaft cups first and last makes life so so much better.
 
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defender300td1 said:
Oh sorry my bad well a 14mm would not go on then . I'm sure you would notice :)
Click to expand...

That's OK. But people do insist on using wrong size spanners then wonder why they knacker the nuts up. Bit like the head bolts on the V8 they are NOT 16mm they are 5/8" AF. People use a 16mm bihex socket and wonder why they round the heads off. Always 5/8" AF single hex impact socket for these. Specially when undoing them. :):)
 
Clarky130 said:
I wouldn't mess about trying to undo them... Cut them off with an angle grinder or bolt croppers. You'll be replacing them anyway...
Click to expand...

best i buy some bolts then also! Didn't think about that. Would it be too obvious to have an urge to replace them with metric bolts and nuts (M10's or whatever they'd be) for ease next time, or is there some daft reason I cant?

Edit to add -bit of research and I'm now aware I cant. Bah. OK - nuts / bolts ordered. £3.50 delivered for a set of 8. I can cope with that!
 
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RossDagley said:
best i buy some bolts then also! Didn't think about that. Would it be too obvious to have an urge to replace them with metric bolts and nuts (M10's or whatever they'd be) for ease next time, or is there some daft reason I cant?

Edit to add -bit of research and I'm now aware I cant. Bah. OK - nuts / bolts ordered. £3.50 delivered for a set of 8. I can cope with that!
Click to expand...

No you can't they are lock nuts for one and fine thread, fine thread takes more turns to undo do you would have more of a chance knowing that is about to come through your floor only cut bad ones if any there is not a lot of room for a grinder unless like me you have a miniature air grinder:)
 
RossDagley said:
best i buy some bolts then also! Didn't think about that. Would it be too obvious to have an urge to replace them with metric bolts and nuts (M10's or whatever they'd be) for ease next time, or is there some daft reason I cant?

Edit to add -bit of research and I'm now aware I cant. Bah. OK - nuts / bolts ordered. £3.50 delivered for a set of 8. I can cope with that!
Click to expand...

You cannot fit silly metric bolts and nuts. For one thing the bolts are too large in diameter. Secondly the heads would not fit behind the flange. Thirdly the nuts would be to large and foul the trunnion holders as they rotated. And you would never get a 17mm spanner on them. That is why they are 3/8" Unified.
 
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