P38 no crank

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dogsbody

Very senior member
Posts
10,685
Location
Bristol
To most of you - hello
To those who have been around for a while - Datatek, Moss etc - I have returned and it's great to be back.
To explain - I had a P38 as a daily driver until a few years ago when my doctors told me that I should stop rolling about on cold, wet concrete so I sold it. Well I got bored and have now bought back my old Rangie and immediately need help, so here we go.

It's a 2000 diesel automatic. The last owner has left it parked until the battery has COMPLETELY died. A charger on the battery for a few hours then some jump leads as well and I went to start it. The buttons on the key got no response from the door locks. New batteries in the key but still no response. The LED on the key illuminates when the buttons are pressed. Spare key is literally in pieces. Opened the door manually and turned the ignition. The dashboard lit up and the message screen told me about door and bonnet being open and windows not being set, so far all standard stuff. But it also said that the car was immobilised and - it would not crank and I don't mean that there was a 'clonk' from under the bonnet or that the dash lights dimmed - no it just ignored me.

I had asked the previous owner for the EKA code only to be met with a blank look and, of course Land Rover won't give me this until I can prove ownership which will take a while so I am left with me and my tool kit. Started with the basics and checked all relevant fuses and swapped around the relays - no joy. Plugged in my Nanocom which, although I have owned for years, I have hardly used. Found and turned off the alarm and then the immobiliser. Found the RF, cleared it and was then told that the car had received a plausible (might be the wrong word) code. Checked the gear selector and it told me that it recognised park and neutral.

So, folks, chaps and lassies where do I start? Or am I totally bu****ed until I can get the EKA code?
 
BECM might not actually disable the Immobiliser while it's waiting for EKA ? Cannot be 100% sure on this.

Sounds like the FOB is sending a code the BECM accepts ? If the fob was wrong or BECM corrupt, I think it would say this.

1715799740851.png


Conversely the message for a good code is the same without the word "NOT". Don't see the term "plausible" on my Nanocom at all. Does it have the latest 1.37 firmware from BBS ?
 
Do you know if the BECM is Locked or Unlocked ? If it's Unlocked go into BECM-Settings-alarm, and scroll to the last page. If the EKA shows as dashes, it's locked . . . .but you might see the EKA there ?

Also when you disabled alarm & immobiliser, did you also disable the EKA ? If not try that as well. Make sure you click "write settings" it says successful.
 
Thanks for your reply. I thought that "plausible" was the wrong word but this all was a few hours ago . . . .
Nanocom says that BECM is unlocked but the EKA shows as dashes
Yes I disabled the EKA and entered 'write settings' on every of my several attempts.
Have just had a silly thought. I haven't driven this for several years. I don't have to press the brake pedal when starting do I ?
I chuffin well hope not. That would just be TOO silly.
 
Good point about my Nanocom. I haven't used it for a long time so an update is probably in order.
 
What voltage have you got at the battery? Did you charge the battery while it was still connected? If so, disconnect it, fully charge it and reconnect it.
As far as I'm aware, you cannot turn off the immobiliser while the car is immobilised and you certainly cannot turn off EKA in that situation.
 
Thank you so much for this post. I have just experienced a remarkably similar symptom, and thought I had fried my ECU. I was just about to post a cry for help when I read your post. I was planning a green laning trip round Wales this weekend - and was dreading trying to get this fixed tomorrow on the day I was meant to be leaving. I gave her a clean - also a 2000 2.5D Vogue - and accidentally knocked her lights on, leading to a flat battery, so I plugged in a charger, then a booster and made a huge mistake - connected the terminals the wrong way round. Ignition lights came on but would not crank at all - completely dead. Realised my mistake and corrected it - no joy. Checked every fuse, no joy - resorted to LandyZone. Then I read your comment about the gearbox - and thought I might have a similar problem. Checked the selector and realised I'd also knocked her out of Park. Put the selector back on Park - and bingo - fires up no problem! It would never have occurred to me to check the selector if I had not read this post. I could have missed a whole weekend because I was trying to start her in Drive!
 
To most of you - hello
To those who have been around for a while - Datatek, Moss etc - I have returned and it's great to be back.
To explain - I had a P38 as a daily driver until a few years ago when my doctors told me that I should stop rolling about on cold, wet concrete so I sold it. Well I got bored and have now bought back my old Rangie and immediately need help, so here we go.

It's a 2000 diesel automatic. The last owner has left it parked until the battery has COMPLETELY died. A charger on the battery for a few hours then some jump leads as well and I went to start it. The buttons on the key got no response from the door locks. New batteries in the key but still no response. The LED on the key illuminates when the buttons are pressed. Spare key is literally in pieces. Opened the door manually and turned the ignition. The dashboard lit up and the message screen told me about door and bonnet being open and windows not being set, so far all standard stuff. But it also said that the car was immobilised and - it would not crank and I don't mean that there was a 'clonk' from under the bonnet or that the dash lights dimmed - no it just ignored me.

I had asked the previous owner for the EKA code only to be met with a blank look and, of course Land Rover won't give me this until I can prove ownership which will take a while so I am left with me and my tool kit. Started with the basics and checked all relevant fuses and swapped around the relays - no joy. Plugged in my Nanocom which, although I have owned for years, I have hardly used. Found and turned off the alarm and then the immobiliser. Found the RF, cleared it and was then told that the car had received a plausible (might be the wrong word) code. Checked the gear selector and it told me that it recognised park and neutral.

So, folks, chaps and lassies where do I start? Or am I totally bu****ed until I can get the EKA code?

Sounds like engine EMS code is out of whack with that stored in the BECM if it is cranking but not starting. There's a How To in the Technical Archive if you have a Nanocom.
 
Firstly let me apologise for starting a thread then vanishing for a couple of days, it must have seemed very rude. I've just, unexpectantly, spent the last couple of days with our wonderful NHS.
Thank you for all your replies, I can now get around to reading them.
 
First of all, thank you to Datatek. I had charged the battery off the car but didn't trust it to hold a charge whilst I was working so had jump leads (remember them?) hooked up to my D2. I was therefore working with about 13.2v.
 
To Salisbury Nick I appreciate your comments but I can hardly take any credit as I'd imagine that what you'd forgotten to do was to walk away, put the kettle on and come back and start from the basics - with a cuppa. Works wonders.
 
Grrrrrrrrrrrrr - no crank I'm afraid.
My next move is to hook up a test light, or meter, around the starter and see if I've got power around the solenoid. However this will have to wait until tomorrow - hopefully.
(It'll probably tip down)
 
Also check the starter relay RL16 is engaging & sending 12V to the starter solenoid. You could also try bridging the relay to see if the starter engages. If not, then crawl under & check the starter !!

1716045050308.png
 
Also check the starter relay RL16 is engaging & sending 12V to the starter solenoid. You could also try bridging the relay to see if the starter engages. If not, then crawl under & check the starter !!

View attachment 317341

Early cars the starter motor shared a big fuse in the fusebox with the EAS pump which was known to blow when the EAS pump jammed. I couldn't believe how stupid they were doing that but later models they split them onto different fuses. It is rare for the starter solenoid to fail on the Bosch starter unless soneone reversed polarity on it at sone stage.

Otyer than that I'm thinking EKA if no crank but there should be a message on the dash.
 
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