P38 Nanocom neebie!

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Hiya Peeps!
I have managed to talk a local into popping around on Sunday with his Nanocom tool. He, unfortunately knows as little as I do about what can and can't be done with Nanocom. I have watched a few black box solution vids on Youtube so have a rough idea for some of the electronics I want to test. I would like to lower the 2.5 diesel idle, it is currently within spec at 845rpm but would like to get it down to 750rpm, can this be done and how? I have checked for vacuum leaks etc...

pwood999 · May 4, 2024

Never tried it because I don't have a diesel, but in EDC settings there's an option to edit & write the setting.

BUT wait for the experts before changing anything.

Rubberknees · May 4, 2024

Personally I would check what your timing modulation is first. If its out I'd do that first.
@Datatek has an easy and simple way if you've got the use of a nanocom

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Rubberknees said:
Personally I would check what your timing modulation is first. If its out I'd do that first.
@Datatek has an easy and simple way if you've got the use of a nanocom

We have been in contacted for a few months, I will drop him a line.

kds · May 4, 2024

Rubberknees said:
Personally I would check what your timing modulation is first. If its out I'd do that first.
@Datatek has an easy and simple way if you've got the use of a nanocom

Plus one on modulation before you do anything else, I lowered the idle on my P38 when I had it from memory it's just a case of lowering the number in the idle speed box.

Datatek · May 4, 2024

pwood999 said:
Never tried it because I don't have a diesel, but in EDC settings there's an option to edit & write the setting.

BUT wait for the experts before changing anything.

View attachment 316352S ARE N

The calibration settings are not always 128, there are several variations on my project car. I have never tried altering the settings as I can find no information on what each field does and I have nt got the time to play trial and error.
The only figure I have altered is for idle speed, the M51 in my cars has a vibration period around 750 rpm so I have increased the idle revs a little.

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Datatek said:
The calibration settings are not always 128, there are several variations on my project car. I have never tried altering the settings as I can find no information on what each field does and I have nt got the time to play trial and error.
The only figure I have altered is for idle speed, the M51 in my cars has a vibration period around 750 rpm so I have increased the idle revs a little.

Yep, noticed on the Black Box vid that the calibration numbers don't seem to relate to rpms? As in pwood999 post 128?

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Can you test the glow plugs with Nanocom? My P38 takes about 15 secs of cranking when cold to start, I do double cycle the glow plugs, starts instantly when warm/hot?

Datatek · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
Yep, noticed on the Black Box vid that the calibration numbers don't seem to relate to rpms? As in pwood999 post 128?

The idle speed figure is normally 128.

Datatek · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
Can you test the glow plugs with Nanocom? My P38 takes about 15 secs of cranking when cold to start, I do double cycle the glow plugs, starts instantly when warm/hot?

You test the glow plugs with a DVM not Nanocom although it will flag a glowplug relay fault I think.

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Datatek said:
You test the glow plugs with a DVM not Nanocom although it will flag a glowplug relay fault I think.

What is DVM?

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
What is DVM?

Voltage meter?

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Datatek said:
You test the glow plugs with a DVM not Nanocom although it will flag a glowplug relay fault I think.

Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.

Datatek · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.

You need to do the full RAVE procedure.

Datatek · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
Voltage meter?

Digital Volt Meter. Set to ohms ignition off, connect across the glow plug terminal and the block, an infinity reading indicates an open circuit glow plug. If replacing them, do not buy cheapos. they do not work. BERU, NGK Delphi or a similar good brand.

Flossie · May 4, 2024

jimmacD said:
Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.

It's not that bad really, you do need a helper to keep the fluid topped up and to work the pedal. The bleed nipple on the master nearest the bulkhead is semi buried in the insulation and a bit awkward to get at but popping the header tank out of its mounting allows it to move over a tad which helps access.

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Flossie said:
It's not that bad really, you do need a helper to keep the fluid topped up and to work the pedal. The bleed nipple on the master nearest the bulkhead is semi buried in the insulation and a bit awkward to get at but popping the header tank out of its mounting allows it to move over a tad which helps access.

Yep, all the vids I have watched are on LHD vehicles.... that looks easy enough.... ah, not so easy for RHD, doh!

jimmacD · May 4, 2024

Datatek said:
Digital Volt Meter. Set to ohms ignition off, connect across the glow plug terminal and the block, an infinity reading indicates an open circuit glow plug. If replacing them, do not buy cheapos. they do not work. BERU, NGK Delphi or a similar good brand.

Seems a universal agreement, don't buy cheap glow plugs! Thanks for the email and attachments. I might just be too fussy about the hesitation on starting and more grateful that it starts? I am getting used to the relaxed forward motion and to be fair the old gal does pick up her skirt when the pedal hits the carpet. With the lock sorted and the alarm arming the BECM is going to sleep, three days now and no battery drain, Yippee!

Mark Piercy · May 5, 2024

jimmacD said:
Yep, noticed on the Black Box vid that the calibration numbers don't seem to relate to rpms? As in pwood999 post 128?

I did mine recently as it was at 850rpm.
Did it with the Nanocom and the engine running.
Mine was logged at 132.(after the pump head seals were done)

Modulation at 51% and at engine working temp,
I reduced it by 1 number at a time I.E 131,130 and saved it each attempt down to 130 with an idle of 750rpm.
I actually preferred it at 850 tbh and it was strange to hear the engine reduce its idle speed

pwood999 · May 5, 2024

BTW the screenshot above is just the default values in Nanocom Emulator as an example - - not a real car !!

P38 Nanocom neebie!

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