P38 manual inflation advice

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tomcat59alan said:
Bloody hell, you got us, I just realised the date.:) I did tell you that you had a comms problem.:D:D:D:D
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Comms problem.... hows bout :censored::censored::censored::censored: blowing up thing with a large :censored: box of matches!!!

Cable all wired fine.... nothing different in the RX....apart from 28 / 80 codes

Totally baffled now!
 
freelandermad said:
Comms problem.... hows bout :censored::censored::censored::censored: blowing up thing with a large :censored: box of matches!!!

Cable all wired fine.... nothing different in the RX....apart from 28 / 80 codes

Totally baffled now!
Click to expand...

Calm down, calm down, put your location in you never know there may be someone close that can help.:) Do you get good idle?
 
tomcat59alan said:
Calm down, calm down, put your location in you never know there may be someone close that can help.:) Do you get good idle?
Click to expand...

lol...honestly its doing ma head in....
no idle, cables soldered up properly.... am actually thinking its laptop n i need XP with a serial port

I've tried it via a prolific usb serial.... chipset is a fake pl2303 so cant get driver for it
and desktop is running windows 8
 
freelandermad said:
lol...honestly its doing ma head in....
no idle, cables soldered up properly.... am actually thinking its laptop n i need XP with a serial port

I've tried it via a prolific usb serial.... chipset is a fake pl2303 so cant get driver for it
and desktop is running windows 8
Click to expand...
Sent you a PM, I think you have a USB driver problem or the adaptor is no good. Nothing wrong with the prolific chipset, but cheapo adaptors often only have the send and receive lines connected and the EAS needs the RTS line.
 
Hiya guys....more problems than I anticipated. Took it upto mike aitken at ladybank today and seems like I may have fusebox wiring corrosion so that's what I'm off to do right now....his diagnostics which is the right RR/LR stuff isn't reading the ecu etc and can defo smell fusebox electrical smell so that's first job......many thanks to you all for the help....will keep thread updated as I go coz I will be an expert by time am finished lol....only 23 years as a mechanic and I've now got a new hobby....RR P38 mechanics and electrical lol
 
freelandermad said:
Hiya guys....more problems than I anticipated. Took it upto mike aitken at ladybank today and seems like I may have fusebox wiring corrosion so that's what I'm off to do right now....his diagnostics which is the right RR/LR stuff isn't reading the ecu etc and can defo smell fusebox electrical smell so that's first job......many thanks to you all for the help....will keep thread updated as I go coz I will be an expert by time am finished lol....only 23 years as a mechanic and I've now got a new hobby....RR P38 mechanics and electrical lol
Click to expand...
Fuse boxes are a common failure:rolleyes:
I see you are in Fife, I used to have an office in Cupar:)
 
I rigged up manual inflation to each bag when looking for an elusive leak. I noticed that it takes almost 80 psi to lift the drivers side front to about 470 mm, yet it takes less than 50 for the other side front. They are both new air bags and in an act of desperation and to prove a point I swapped them over and of course the results were the same. I wonder why there is such a big difference :confused:
Didn't find a leak and she stays up all night on manual but sinks earthward when connected to the valve block. I've already done a rebuild with new seals and diaphragm but guess I must've missed something.
I think she is sulking because I bought an XJ6.........with air suspension :eek:

Pete
 
Pete D said:
I rigged up manual inflation to each bag when looking for an elusive leak. I noticed that it takes almost 80 psi to lift the drivers side front to about 470 mm, yet it takes less than 50 for the other side front. They are both new air bags and in an act of desperation and to prove a point I swapped them over and of course the results were the same. I wonder why there is such a big difference :confused:
Didn't find a leak and she stays up all night on manual but sinks earthward when connected to the valve block. I've already done a rebuild with new seals and diaphragm but guess I must've missed something.
I think she is sulking because I bought an XJ6.........with air suspension :eek:

Pete
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Maybe it's because there is not a lot in the back to lift and you have a bloody great engine in the front. :D:D:D
 
Datatek said:
If you have jump started it without following the procedure in the manual, it's possible something has been damaged.
If you want to use manual inflation, pull the pipes from the valve block and connect the valves to the ends. Fitting T's is pointless as it relies on the valve block being in good order.
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Jump start a P38:eek:

I'd rather stick a fork in a toaster.

It's always out with the battery charger and start with 2A and then ramp it up to 6A after an hour or so.

Still, if you're in Sainsburys car park or something, yer don't have much choice:(
 
yes but why should one side front need so much more pressure than the other? I brought the pressure in each bag up evenly and ended up with nearly twice the pressure in off side front as in near side. Must be a heavy steering box:)
 
Pete D said:
yes but why should one side front need so much more pressure than the other? I brought the pressure in each bag up evenly and ended up with nearly twice the pressure in off side front as in near side. Must be a heavy steering box:)
Click to expand...

I found all sorts of quirks filling them manually when I was leak testing. Sometimes it'd take loads of pressure and then suddenly it would shoot up and the pressure would drop. I'm only guessing but ...

1) Weight distribution - especially if on slope.
2) Length of pipe to valve - pressure will drop off as eponentially in narrow pipe.
3) The way the bag was folded and the friction as it unrolls.
4) Elasticity of rubber.

If you take a trace of what the valves are doing as the car is driving along you can see the computer is constantly tweaking the bags to keep the car level.
 
Pete D said:
yes but why should one side front need so much more pressure than the other? I brought the pressure in each bag up evenly and ended up with nearly twice the pressure in off side front as in near side. Must be a heavy steering box:)
Click to expand...

or a big lump behind the wheel :eek::eek::eek:
 
Grrrrrr said:
I found all sorts of quirks filling them manually when I was leak testing. Sometimes it'd take loads of pressure and then suddenly it would shoot up and the pressure would drop. I'm only guessing but ...

1) Weight distribution - especially if on slope.
2) Length of pipe to valve - pressure will drop off as eponentially in narrow pipe.
3) The way the bag was folded and the friction as it unrolls.
4) Elasticity of rubber.

If you take a trace of what the valves are doing as the car is driving along you can see the computer is constantly tweaking the bags to keep the car level.
Click to expand...

Or possibly a faulty shock....
 
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