p38 injector pump?

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brocky69

New Member
Posts
13
Location
west mids
hi.
please could anyone help on checking out my injector pump before i remove it. all i need really is to eliminate it. the fault is no fuel going 2 the injectors. replaced the bleed off pipes the fuel shut off solenoid. but when cranking the fuel flows into the clear plastic pipe into the pump. but then drains back once full. nothing is really coming out of the return pipe back 2 the tank well its just a trickle. thought it was the pump in the tank. so have changed that. thanks to andy, we can eliminate the becm as the remote unlocks the door, with nothing coming up on the dash.if it is the pump, which i hope not. has anyone got a step by step way of removing it. including any special tools. i just dont fancy the idea of taking it off and then finding out nothing was wrong. at the end of my limits on engines. so anything is worth a try.
i would also like 2 thank everyone else who has help on this forum.
irish rover,Andy to name a few. sorry if my replys being late. but work has really held me up.
cheers dave.
 
cheers spudH.
i have downloaded it,
best i start reading up.
thanks again.
dave.
been looking at the tools. which i hope i can borrow from the mt section at work.
but does anyone know where 2 find
a step by step guide.
i dont mind getting my hands dirty.
dave
 
Hi Brocky,

Here's as close to a step by step guide as I can find. This is taken from a post by Chas, a member here, posted on the BBS forum. This was about adjusting the timing modulation but it involves a lot of the steps required to remove the pump since this is done to adjust the static timing of the pump by physically rotating the pump. This doesn't go into using the special LR tools but should help as an addition to the instructions in Rave. You could try pming Chas to see if he has taken off the pump, he's one of the most knowledgable posters on Diesel engines.

"I'd say Yes, but I can't recall which way.
Look also at the thread about 4 down in this sub-forum, 'Timing Modulation %'
Since Jim reported correcting his settings, I did mine. The biggest problem was sorting out exactly which combination of tools I had to assemble to access the pump securing nut that is hidden by the radiator hose.
Obviously everybodies tool kit is different, but for me it was a 12mm 3/8" drive socket, a 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor, a 1/4" drive ratchet with a tubular spanner over the handle, extending it by a factor of 2 (IE about twice as long as standard). This wasn't to increase the leverage, just so I could get a grip on the handle with my fingers.
The nut on the support bracket at the back is also awkward, but you can at least see what you are doing, and a plain spanner does the trick, once you learn the correct angle of attack, and what else needs moving out of the way.

I don't know what else may affect these settings., but you might look for interest at the thread Drinking Diesel. His engine was in poor state, so not as you report yours, but just in case you spot any similarities it's worth 5 minutes reading.

I think my engine is running very slightly cooler when under continuous high loads (speed), but I haven't had the weather or the oppertunity for continuous high speed to be fully confident about that.
High speed in my context means 80mph and above (130kmph).

Hope this helps.
 
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