P38 DSE and Injector light

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The Sheep Worrier said:
I can only report on what was found and what resolved the issue. The repair on the wire to injector 4 didn't shut off the lamp, replacing the valve did and dare I say it through the various tests we did has cured it .
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There is no feedback from the stop valve to the ECU. The ECU powers it but has no idea if it functions or not. It either works or it doesn't.
 
I exchanged my Subaru Forester (highly tuned),10 years ago, for a 2.5DSE 1996, I lived in Cardiff, The exchange took place on my way to Switzerland in Charing just before the ferry, £1750 , I asked the seller which of your cars will get me to Swiss and back. no hesitation the Rovy, and it did best swop I ever made, added the little black box ,it was a rocket, now live in France and got two P38's (in France they're called Pet's). A 1997 2.5 and a 1999 V8 4.6. A must have is a nanocom, as has been said (Whammers), it's most likely the bloody green sender/sonde.
 
wammers said:
There is no feedback from the stop valve to the ECU. The ECU powers it but has no idea if it functions or not. It either works or it doesn't.
Click to expand...
I hear you completely.

As I say I'm just a DIY'er when it comes to mechanics and can only say what seems to have fixed it. After seeing the crud and how mashed the end of the valve was, we were both convinced on that being the cause.
All wiring/connectors in the vicinity were checked and to be fair no signs of distress or bad connections/arc-ing.

It'll be probably Saturday before it has a run out when I go shooting so will see what becomes of it then.

Thanlyou, I appreciate your time and thoughts.
 
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RovyCouple said:
I exchanged my Subaru Forester (highly tuned),10 years ago, for a 2.5DSE 1996, I lived in Cardiff, The exchange took place on my way to Switzerland in Charing just before the ferry, £1750 , I asked the seller which of your cars will get me to Swiss and back. no hesitation the Rovy, and it did best swop I ever made, added the little black box ,it was a rocket, now live in France and got two P38's (in France they're called Pet's). A 1997 2.5 and a 1999 V8 4.6. A must have is a nanocom, as has been said (Whammers), it's most likely the bloody green sender/sonde.
Click to expand...

I've no doubt that Forester would have got you there and back too, the motors like all are good when maintained properly. Were you involved with SWS at all or CSC?
I was quite active with SWS organising run's out in the welsh hills etc but not so much these days, still have two GC8 Impreza's.

Little black box you say.....tell me more?! Tuning /generic map tweak I assume ? Would I be silly in 'tuning' a 21 year old Motor though are are they pretty strong generally?

Bet that V8 Is a hoot to drive, and fuel
 
brianp38dse said:
There are two heater blower motors each side by the pillars there is resistor thing that can blow stopping the blowers.
well done on getting the engine sorted:)
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Sorry, i forgot to respond to this!

Great, can you point me in the direction of the resistor thing please?

And thanks, I didn't do a lot was just there for morale and picking up bacon rolls /supplying banter
 
The Sheep Worrier said:
I've no doubt that Forester would have got you there and back too, the motors like all are good when maintained properly. Were you involved with SWS at all or CSC?
I was quite active with SWS organising run's out in the welsh hills etc but not so much these days, still have two GC8 Impreza's.

Little black box you say.....tell me more?! Tuning /generic map tweak I assume ? Would I be silly in 'tuning' a 21 year old Motor though are are they pretty strong generally?

Bet that V8 Is a hoot to drive, and fuel
Click to expand...

Little black box is probably a Power box. Tricks the ECU into chucking more fuel in. Better off with a mapped chip, imo.
 
The Sheep Worrier said:
I hear you completely.

As I say I'm just a DIY'er when it comes to mechanics and can only say what seems to have fixed it. After seeing the crud and how mashed the end of the valve was, we were both convinced on that being the cause.
All wiring/connectors in the vicinity were checked and to be fair no signs of distress or bad connections/arc-ing.

It'll be probably Saturday before it has a run out when I go shooting so will see what becomes of it then.

Thanlyou, I appreciate your time and thoughts.
Click to expand...
Did you open up the plastic duct that carries the wiring?
 
tomcat59alan said:
Chain, of you want to learn more about your motor I surgest you download Rave I think the link is in the technical archive top left on the home page.;)
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If his description of the crap in the Elab port is anything to go by, he will need a lot more than a copy of RAVE. Although it will help. ;):D
 
wammers said:
If his description of the crap in the Elab port is anything to go by, he will need a lot more than a copy of RAVE. Although it will help. ;):D
Click to expand...

I gave the best description I could, as I've pointed out I'm not a mechanic. However I'm not 'simple' either. Being a plumber and gas engineer ,I'm used to dealing with problems and solving them, as well as having a good knowledge of GC8 Subaru's and MK3 Hilux.. This is my first Range Rover, this is 'new ground' to me.
Please don't insult my integrity, i'm trying to learn and giving the results as they are found.
I understand you know a lot about these vehicles and respect that and have thanked you for your input.

Iv'e taken the vehicle for a few runs and it seems to be right. I'll report back on this thread if it isn't
 
tomcat59alan said:
But don't bother if its an auto.
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It is an Auto.

Im used to driving a well tuned Impreza on the nice weekends so obviously its a bit of a slug in comparison, pleasantly surprised though as its no 'flat' and pulls really well.
I think with a motor that's done 120k and is 21 years old I'd rather 'nurse' it a bit and not 'tune' , it'll probably s4it itself knowing my luck
 
The Sheep Worrier said:
It is an Auto.

Im used to driving a well tuned Impreza on the nice weekends so obviously its a bit of a slug in comparison, pleasantly surprised though as its no 'flat' and pulls really well.
I think with a motor that's done 120k and is 21 years old I'd rather 'nurse' it a bit and not 'tune' , it'll probably s4it itself knowing my luck
Click to expand...
The auto doesn't cope well with the extra grunt,the manual on the other hand.:D:D
 
The Sheep Worrier said:
I gave the best description I could, as I've pointed out I'm not a mechanic. However I'm not 'simple' either. Being a plumber and gas engineer ,I'm used to dealing with problems and solving them, as well as having a good knowledge of GC8 Subaru's and MK3 Hilux.. This is my first Range Rover, this is 'new ground' to me.
Please don't insult my integrity, i'm trying to learn and giving the results as they are found.
I understand you know a lot about these vehicles and respect that and have thanked you for your input.

Iv'e taken the vehicle for a few runs and it seems to be right. I'll report back on this thread if it isn't
Click to expand...

Nobody insulted your integrity. Being able to change the spark plugs on a Subaru or fit the spare wheel on a Hilux does not make you mechanically experienced. The ELAB being taken out by swarf and debris around the valve seat is indicative of a very badly revamped exchange pump or damaged pump internals. You may also noticed that the comment was not addressed to you.
 
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