P38 Driver's external door handle?

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+1 on drop the tank & do it properly.

If you really want to butcher the floor, there's no real need to remove seats, but there's the torx at the front as well. RAVE shows it pretty well, but does not have floor cutting info :rolleyes:

RAVE does also explain how easy it is to remove the tank !!

View attachment 312590
I would recommend removing the seats, bit like digging an escape tunnel then realising your still four feet from the wall as the calculations are a bit off. The schematics given don't allow for rusted connectors if you still have the original pump so you end up being an inch short for access and having to fight with carpet. With the seat out it becomes an easy job and you can see where two floor panels meet. It's easy to remove tank if you have a four poster ramp, gearbox jack and an empty tank. Design oversight by Land Rover? I have another ten cars.... all their pumps are accessed through a removeable panel or by lifting the rear seat or centre console. I look at this as an upgrade, butchery is down to the individual.
 
+1 on drop the tank & do it properly.

If you really want to butcher the floor, there's no real need to remove seats, but there's the torx at the front as well. RAVE shows it pretty well, but does not have floor cutting info :rolleyes:

RAVE does also explain how easy it is to remove the tank !!

View attachment 312590
It is a poor design, cutting a panel is an upgrade.
 
You can do it with seats in place but it is easier with them removed and I have made a better job as the fuel line connectors where rusted solid, more room to repair. It's a case of do it and you will realise how much easier with seat removed.
Those seats are bloody heavy compared to the tank. Plus it's likely the flexible coupling to the filler pipe needs replacing.
 
Those seats are bloody heavy compared to the tank. Plus it's likely the flexible coupling to the filler pipe needs replacing.
All the working out must have paid off? Surprised how light the seat was, out and back in no problems, much better than playing "will it won't it drop" with the tank. I think failed pump and leaking rusty connections more likely than filler pipe issues, when I am stood in a puddle of diesel at the pump that might be the time to change it? It's like any job, how far do you go. It's easy to end up replacing everything for peace of mind but sometimes it's better left alone if it works?
 
I must admit I cut my floor and it has saved a lot of time and hassle when the pump needs changing, pretty sure I removed the seat to do it, gives a lot more room to manoeuvre!

The Classic RR had a porthole there
Yerp, that's my feeling on the subject. Some might say it's not the proper way but it is how the P38 should have been designed and most owners have done at least one modification... cooling, electrics, tunning, suspension.... etc.. etc.. so it is hard to be a purist P38 owner?
 
So i got the door pull handle and it does not seem to have any wear, the interesting thing it that it seems to be identical to the passengers side. I wonder if the rears are also identical ? If so that would mean there should be lots of good spares.

I will probably still get a scan done if it's not too expensive.

Just ordered another cam kit STC3064 even though the one in the drivers door is not that old, did the passenger door today and we had to snap the arm off the cam in order to get access to the pin to pull it out. The handle no longer sticks out but the action is still a bit more stiff than the rear doors.
 
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