P38 Diesel problems

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mannov steel

New Member
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Hi Folks, just registered so go easy please. This is the first land rover I've owned. Tried to search but having no luck..

Just bought a P38 diesel range rover and there are a few faults I'd like some advice on if possible. First is that when changing into 3rd from any gear, 90% of the time I have to wrestle/force it in. It seems ok going from 2nd to 3rd if the revs are up.. Is this a common fault and what's likely to be causing it?

Also the water temp gauge never seems to really get far away from the blue, usually sits just on the first line just above the blue zone, could this be a problem with the stat or something else? And is it a problem at all as I've read a few posts saying that these engines generally run cool..

Third, it starts no problem from cold, but when it has been running I need to turn it over for maybe 10 seconds before it fires, what could be causing this? And could it be linked to the temperature problem?

Thanks
 
Hi mate,

welcome aboard.

To get some more help from peeps on here, list a little more info on the vehicle.

With regard to the cold start/ hot start. There is loads of information out there, but the basis seems to be:
- BMW in there wisdom do not trigger the glow plugs when the engine is warm, which is where the "hotstart fix" comes from... Available on ebay and other places.... will trigger glow plugs at every ignition turn on..
- to actually fix issue is usually the Fuel injection pump timing being out, and sometimes a few other smaller issues. do a quick search and you will get loads of info..

Good luck with the car
 
mannov steel said:
Hi Folks, just registered so go easy please. This is the first land rover I've owned. Tried to search but having no luck..

Just bought a P38 diesel range rover and there are a few faults I'd like some advice on if possible. First is that when changing into 3rd from any gear, 90% of the time I have to wrestle/force it in. It seems ok going from 2nd to 3rd if the revs are up.. Is this a common fault and what's likely to be causing it?

Also the water temp gauge never seems to really get far away from the blue, usually sits just on the first line just above the blue zone, could this be a problem with the stat or something else? And is it a problem at all as I've read a few posts saying that these engines generally run cool..

Third, it starts no problem from cold, but when it has been running I need to turn it over for maybe 10 seconds before it fires, what could be causing this? And could it be linked to the temperature problem?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Don't know about the gearbox, but the temperature gauge is probably the stat missing, it may have been removed to stop it overheating which is usually caused by a duff viscous fan, silted up RAD or the water pump. The engine should not run cool, gauge should be just below half way.
Hot start is a common problem, low cranking speed from a poor battery can cause it but the concensus of opinion is that it's the FIP timing out due to chain stretch. A timed hot start mod is the bodge to avoid re-timing.:welcome2: to the mad world of Range Rover ownership:)
 
Datatek said:
...the temperature gauge is probably the stat missing, it may have been removed to stop it overheating which is usually caused by a duff viscous fan, silted up RAD or the water pump.
Click to expand...

A few members, myself included (I did mine on friday), have found that replacing the stat fixes the problem. In my case, my needle wasn't getting out of the blue. The stat was present and was actually in the closed position when I took it out - but I may have knocked it, maybe it was stuck open or maybe it just opened far too soon. Either way, the replacement has made a huge difference. Warms in minutes, more output from the heaters. Starts a bit better when warm too.

I'm not a mechanic and it was a job I could do. If you find it is missing, then you may have another problem, but if it's present, get it changed and see what happens.

Nik
 
Thanks for the info guys,

Little more info on the vehicle, 1998 manual with 133k on it. FSH up to 90 ish thousand and I'm told it was serviced afer that by the owner...

Not really sure what other info I can supply.

Found the hot start fix thingy on ebay, they straight forward to fit?

As for the stat, is it accesible/fairly easy to get to without too much hassle of stripping stuff out? Sorry, only got it 2 nights ago and not even had a proper look under the bonnet as of yet.. :confused:

Anyone any ideas on the gearbox problem? It's absolutely fine once it's in gear and there's no crunching or anything when it goes, it's like there's just something catching or stopping it slotting in smootly.
 
mannov steel said:
Thanks for the info guys,

Little more info on the vehicle, 1998 manual with 133k on it. FSH up to 90 ish thousand and I'm told it was serviced afer that by the owner...

Not really sure what other info I can supply.

Found the hot start fix thingy on ebay, they straight forward to fit?

As for the stat, is it accesible/fairly easy to get to without too much hassle of stripping stuff out? Sorry, only got it 2 nights ago and not even had a proper look under the bonnet as of yet.. :confused:

Anyone any ideas on the gearbox problem? It's absolutely fine once it's in gear and there's no crunching or anything when it goes, it's like there's just something catching or stopping it slotting in smootly.
Click to expand...
Make sure the Hot Start Bodge is the timed version that hands fuelling control back the the ECU after a short time else it will continually over fuel and cost you in the pocket at the pumps!
 
mannov steel said:
Thanks for the info guys,

Little more info on the vehicle, 1998 manual with 133k on it. FSH up to 90 ish thousand and I'm told it was serviced afer that by the owner...

Not really sure what other info I can supply.

Found the hot start fix thingy on ebay, they straight forward to fit?

As for the stat, is it accesible/fairly easy to get to without too much hassle of stripping stuff out? Sorry, only got it 2 nights ago and not even had a proper look under the bonnet as of yet.. :confused:

Anyone any ideas on the gearbox problem? It's absolutely fine once it's in gear and there's no crunching or anything when it goes, it's like there's just something catching or stopping it slotting in smootly.
Click to expand...


do you have a copy of RAVE, if not, that is your first port of call..

The "hot start" fix is as mentioned a bodge. So getting your pump timed correctly by a specialist will be well worth your time..

If you go with the fix, as many of us have, it is very simple to fit.. Has good instructions and is a very successful bodge..
 
langley said:
do you have a copy of RAVE, if not, that is your first port of call..

The "hot start" fix is as mentioned a bodge. So getting your pump timed correctly by a specialist will be well worth your time..

If you go with the fix, as many of us have, it is very simple to fit.. Has good instructions and is a very successful bodge..
Click to expand...

Ok, was about to ask what "RAVE" wa there but done a bit of searching and found out. Answer, no, I don't have a copy, can someone point me in the direction of where I can perhaps download a copy?
 
NikTheGeek said:
A few members, myself included (I did mine on friday), have found that replacing the stat fixes the problem. In my case, my needle wasn't getting out of the blue. The stat was present and was actually in the closed position when I took it out - but I may have knocked it, maybe it was stuck open or maybe it just opened far too soon. Either way, the replacement has made a huge difference. Warms in minutes, more output from the heaters. Starts a bit better when warm too.

I'm not a mechanic and it was a job I could do. If you find it is missing, then you may have another problem, but if it's present, get it changed and see what happens.

Nik
Click to expand...

Same thing happened with mine?? Genuine BMW Stat came out in the closed position?? but the engine would never get warm??

Before you fit the new stat place it in cold water and warm it up and check what temperature it opens at – many have reported faulty stats, and the location isn’t the easiest to access lol

Check your Viscous fan is working – or carry out Data’s mod to use the A/C fans for cooling.

Word of warning though – the day after I changed the stat the top of the Rad Blew and I had to replace the Rad for a new one!


But saying that, other than faulty Stat, split Radiator, Battery issues, FIP issues, leaking Bleed pipes, collapsing air suspension, RF issues, none working heated seats, broken heated mirror and rear internal door handle breaking owning has been a Joy lol and I wouldn’t change it
 
and forgot to say if you're doing the Stat and maybe the rad - fit a new cap on the expension bottle ;-)
 
mannov steel said:
Ok, was about to ask what "RAVE" wa there but done a bit of searching and found out. Answer, no, I don't have a copy, can someone point me in the direction of where I can perhaps download a copy?
Click to expand...

If you've had a nose round on here you'll know that the air suspension can cause issues. To investigate and clear faults with it there is software available that you can run on a laptop. DATATEK on here will sell you the software and the connector lead for less than you'll find on ebay and, on the disc he supplies, he will burn a copy of RAVE and his 'how to change your suspension airbags' instructions.

Welcome to Rangie ownership, you've just got a new hobby.
 
Oh and you might want to add a location to your on-screen details. We can be a fairly friendly bunch and can even be bribed to help a fellow owner out.

LandyZone currency is usually biscuits, cakes, more biscuits, tea, coffee, more cake - you get the general idea.

:D
 
No, gearbox shouldn't stick going from second to third.

Is there any rattling at all when it is in gear? Taking the transmission off isn't fun so I'd be tempted to leave it unless you really have to!
 
Regarding the hot start problem based on other threads I moved the Fuel Injection Pump towards the block but with no improvement. So next having suspected a lazy starter I took it off.

On dismantling it, there was no obvious wear so before bringing to the reconditioners I decided to give the armature and inside the coil a sanding and try it.

RESULT: different car!! engine turns over much easier. Today I got to check with the engine hot and like a miracle it starts no problem without the need to heat it.

regarding the gearbox - mine is similar - like the synchro not working well. I added molyslip treatment and it helped and when you are driving it a while you become accustomed to the correct speed/rev to change at. If you take the gearbox out it's a replace, recondition/exchange job. Taking it out/in is hard going.
 
mgmayo said:
Regarding the hot start problem based on other threads I moved the Fuel Injection Pump towards the block but with no improvement. So next having suspected a lazy starter I took it off.

On dismantling it, there was no obvious wear so before bringing to the reconditioners I decided to give the armature and inside the coil a sanding and try it.

RESULT: different car!! engine turns over much easier. Today I got to check with the engine hot and like a miracle it starts no problem without the need to heat it.

regarding the gearbox - mine is similar - like the synchro not working well. I added molyslip treatment and it helped and when you are driving it a while you become accustomed to the correct speed/rev to change at. If you take the gearbox out it's a replace, recondition/exchange job. Taking it out/in is hard going.
Click to expand...

The FIP has to be timed to thousandths of an inch, you cannot do it "by ear" if you've managed it then go and buy a lottery ticket - your luck's in.
 
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