P38 bcem sync to ECU needed Merseyside if anyone can help please

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Stirling1984

Member
Posts
13
Location
St Helens
Looking for someone with nanocom or faultmate or sync mate near St helens Merseyside if anyone knows or can help please to sync my bcem to ECU on P38 dse please
 
When you say you replaced actuator on pump are we talking the the board in side the pump top,
the syncmate will only make sure the codes becm and ecu the pump does not have codes that need matching, if you took the pump head of they need to go back on in the same place we are talking thousandths of an inch
what is happening exactly with the car is it just spinning over and not starting and did you bleed the injectors.
 
When you say you replaced actuator on pump are we talking the the board in side the pump top,
the syncmate will only make sure the codes becm and ecu the pump does not have codes that need matching, if you took the pump head of they need to go back on in the same place we are talking thousandths of an inch
what is happening exactly with the car is it just spinning over and not starting and did you bleed the injectors.
 
I replaced actuator started the car reved high so cut car off because late time I turned car off went in thought I will adjust actuator to slower revs in morning like a fool I hadn't closed tailgate so interior light was on all night battery was flat so charged battery on battery replacement key code unlock error engine disarmed error I fitted inputted eka code car turns over but won't start won't even try
 
I replaced actuator started the car reved high so cut car off because late time I turned car off went in thought I will adjust actuator to slower revs in morning like a fool I hadn't closed tailgate so interior light was on all night battery was flat so charged battery on battery replacement key code unlock error engine disarmed error I fitted inputted eka code car turns over but won't start won't even try

That'll be in the top of the FIP? That has to fit in the collar and the top put back fractions of a mm perfect. Get it wrong and you're in a world of pain. You can nip it up and then (with someone inside waiting to switch off) tap it ever so gently back and forth across where you marked it before removal to fine tune it to tick over at 750 rpm. Can take a while. The act of torquing up can cause it to drift.
 
That'll be in the top of the FIP? That has to fit in the collar and the top put back fractions of a mm perfect. Get it wrong and you're in a world of pain. You can nip it up and then (with someone inside waiting to switch off) tap it ever so gently back and forth across where you marked it before removal to fine tune it to tick over at 750 rpm. Can take a while. The act of torquing up can cause it to drift.
 
Yes just turning over not even trying when I first fitted it well it started but ticked over fine for about 20 second then revs went all way up to like 4500 rpm but I didn't tighten intercooler hose so blew hose off then I turned it off tightened hose slid housing slightly towards front never tried start since no matter were I've tried to adjust not even tried since
 
Yes just turning over not even trying when I first fitted it well it started but ticked over fine for about 20 second then revs went all way up to like 4500 rpm but I didn't tighten intercooler hose so blew hose off then I turned it off tightened hose slid housing slightly towards front never tried start since no matter were I've tried to adjust not even tried since

I think maybe start at the beginning with a step by step of what you did to the FIP.
 
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