P38 Air Suspension Not Starting Up

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Radar1946 said:
The easunlocker must have done something ,as the compressor starts when I turn the ignition on.
It has plenty of air pumping from the compressor ( I can't stop it with my finger ).
I ran the engine with the compressor working for just under 10 minutes,but the car will not go up..
Click to expand...
The compressor should only operate with the engine running except when forced by diagnostics.
If the compressor runs and produces good pressure and there are no hard faults logged, then the air must be going somewhere, have you checked for leaks?
 
I don't have to use any other method now to start the compressor.
As soon as I start the engine the compressor starts now.I left the engine running for approx. 10minutes,
but nothing moved not even a fraction.. I have looked everywhere for a leak but can not find one..
Tomorrow I am going to use my Lynx diagnostics as it tests the valves and other bits and pieces.
The EASunlocker is stating that there are no faults, so I will see what Lynx says. As you say the air must be going somewhere.
 
Does the compressor stop after a few minutes?
I assume you are closing all the doors? It won't move if a door is open including the tailgate.
 
With a door open and good compressor, tank should fill in 5-7 minutes then compressor should stop. That way, you know you have a tank of air.
 
Daft question are you a 100% that all the pipes are back into their original places after you changed the block over, have you had any problems with door locking mechanisms?
 
Double checked all pipes are correct. No problems with locking. I tried bypassing the air condenser but no change. I put my finger over the pipe on the condenser and air was coming through.
I have tested the 7 & 9 contacts on the plug and it is showing a continuity, and I think it should be open as there is no air in the tank. I have tested again with the Lynx diagnostics and It is showing no faults.
Can I fill the air tank any other way? as I feel the air is going into the block but not coming out. They will steal anything these days lol.
 
I was helping another member and he found that the pipe to the air tank had a hole in it were the pipe had got hot from a blow in the exhaust, it was very hard to find as with engine running you could not here it.
you should be able to take the pipe out the block and connect it to an air line to test pipe and tank.
 
I can understand your woes my friend I've been there with what problems you've got I had to run a new pipe from the tank to the block after replacing the burnt out compressor I filled the tank with with another compressor to find the leak but to be honest no disrespect to others on here you need to listen to wammers & data when I did mine I sent wammers mad but he stuck with it and got me up and running good luck
 
pete12345 said:
I can understand your woes my friend I've been there with what problems you've got I had to run a new pipe from the tank to the block after replacing the burnt out compressor I filled the tank with with another compressor to find the leak but to be honest no disrespect to others on here you need to listen to wammers & data when I did mine I sent wammers mad but he stuck with it and got me up and running good luck
Click to expand...

No doubt about that. Wammers and Datatek know the EAS inside out.
 
Radar1946 said:
Double checked all pipes are correct. No problems with locking. I tried bypassing the air condenser but no change. I put my finger over the pipe on the condenser and air was coming through.
I have tested the 7 & 9 contacts on the plug and it is showing a continuity, and I think it should be open as there is no air in the tank. I have tested again with the Lynx diagnostics and It is showing no faults.
Can I fill the air tank any other way? as I feel the air is going into the block but not coming out. They will steal anything these days lol.
Click to expand...
If pressure switch is closed, the system will think the tank has >140psi and the ECU should stop the compressor. If you have continuity between 7 & 9 and compressor runs then check relay 20 is working correctly. I would also re-check the valve block for leaks, solenoids in wrong place, etc.

Has anyone messed with ECU wiring ? (bypass, manual override, etc.)
 
I have put a new pressure switch in, checked the diaphragm is the right way round. Checked everywhere for leaks. Found none.
I felt all the solenoids one at a time to se if they clicked when forced by Lynx.but none of them did. According to Lynx there are no faults.
When I run the engine the compressor runs foe about 5minutes and then switches off when the tank is full.
Nobody has touched the wiring.
 
If Lynx doesn't operate the solenoids, you can try manually by feeding 12V to the correct pins in the connector at front of the valve block.
  • Unplug the connector
  • Apply 12V to pins 12 &13, and Gnd to Pins 10 & 11 to power the Driver Pack
  • Then apply 12V to pins 1-6 in turn to operate the solenoids.
  • To raise any corner apply 12V to pin 5 Inlet, and also the relevant corner pin.
See here for extra info https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/eas-manual-control-box.302630/#post-3908124

Valve Block Connector.JPG
 
pwood999 said:
If Lynx doesn't operate the solenoids, you can try manually by feeding 12V to the correct pins in the connector at front of the valve block.
  • Unplug the connector
  • Apply 12V to pins 12 &13, and Gnd to Pins 10 & 11 to power the Driver Pack
  • Then apply 12V to pins 1-6 in turn to operate the solenoids.
  • To raise any corner apply 12V to pin 5 Inlet, and also the relevant corner pin.
See here for extra info https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/eas-manual-control-box.302630/#post-3908124

View attachment 172674
Click to expand...
And applying 12 volts to 9 volt solenoids could lead to burning them out.:eek:
 
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