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Don't forget it's a land rover! You'll no doubt drop that difficult to reach small bolt down the back of the engine, but it's ok you'll find it.. eventually.. under the back wheel.. of your neighbors car
P38 4.6 Thor 1999 engine missing on 2 cylinders
- Thread starter boycie
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As long as you fix the real problem and not something related. You could try UV dye in the coolant and see if anything shows on the dip stick.
boycie
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Done that Kermit or a day or so later Jackie says I found this on the drive yesterday is it yours .It didn’t use any oil between changes ,it hasn’t used any water for weeks the oil is never milky when I change it .I have been on LR4x4 and one of the guys had the same and it was the head gasket between cylinders 3 and 5 that’s what I am hoping.I will do the checks you guys have suggested over the next couple of days and hopefully I can get it stripped over the weekend and report back .
boycie
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Is it ok to grind the valves with grinding paste on these engines or am I likely to be doing more harm than good ,also what torque wrench do you guys use for the head bolts I believe the heads should be torqued to 15 lb ft both of my wrench’s start at 20 lb ft ,I do have a in lbs wrench I suppose I could wind that up to 180 in lbs ?.
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I've got a small 1/4" torque wrench which does really low values and a 3' breaker bar for the 90° turns
boycie
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I think that’s what I will end up doing ,I’ll hopefully get the offending head off tomorrow I’m thinking ahead .
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Depends what you find in there but if they fit I'd leave them alone.
As above. Use only 6 point on six sided bolts/nuts. Most of the engine was imperial on the GEMS, iirc. Stick metric on and you'll start rounding stuff. The exhaust shield bolts can be an utter f+cker. Spray up front with plenty of Plusgas or similar. Steering column might take a jiggle to come apart. Some say it isn't necessary but they must have smaller hands than mine.
Henry_b
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The manifold bolt for cylinder 8 is a pain in the hoop, remove the drivers wheel and fender liner to gain access..
Leave the heatshield off and wrap the manifolds.
Regrind the valves if necessary,
New gaskets
New stretch bolts
Planty of plusgas
and an angle gauge for your torque wrenvh
Leave the heatshield off and wrap the manifolds.
Regrind the valves if necessary,
New gaskets
New stretch bolts
Planty of plusgas
and an angle gauge for your torque wrenvh
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its the manifold bolt on #8 that caused me lots of pain. previous owner crossthreaded it and when I changed the HG obviously killed the thread completely.. the thread on #7 isnt much better
but seems to be holding tight I've also not put the manifold heat shields back on, but from what I've heard you're ok if you dont wrap the exhaust headers. I'm not saying you shouldnt, just that I havent
boycie
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Thanks for the reply’s guys I had a problem with the manifold gaskets a couple of years ago and replaced the manifold bolts with stainless steel Allen bolts and plenty of copper grease and stainless bolts in the manifold heat shield so I am keeping my fingers crossed .I just called into Halfords to pick up a 8mm bihex socket for the rocker box and they had a torque wrench with a range of 15 to 75 lb ft so I picked that up as well.
boycie
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Hi Folks I have been able to spend an afternoon working on the car,I removed the left hand head and found the problem .I would love to post some photos and hear your comments but I have no idea how to do that could I email them to one of you to post on here ,I would love to hear what you have to say ?.
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Use the "upload a file" option. middle green button at the bottom of the post-reply window.
Henry_b
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Or create an IMGUR account and copy the BB code to the forum for some nice big pictures!!
Whats the issue?!
Whats the issue?!
boycie
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I have e mailed them to you Henry thanks .
boycie
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Henry_b
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Yep that HG is toast..
Motor looks OK'ish inside not the cleanest but certainly not the dirtiest i've seen..
Some Valvoline 20w50 should see that motor good.
I'd also have a look at the bores themselves to check for any liner slip, even though it isn't apparent
This pic is both good and bad
You see the cross thatch which is good, but look at the gap between the deck and the liner, this was a 4.0 Gems i pulled apart with a tap..
Just check all eight of yours, there shouldn't be any deviations between level..
Oh and hopefully you still have some cross hatch's in your bores
Rockers should be cleaned, disassembled ideally and shot with some brake clean through and through..
Heads the same..
Motor looks OK'ish inside not the cleanest but certainly not the dirtiest i've seen..
Some Valvoline 20w50 should see that motor good.
I'd also have a look at the bores themselves to check for any liner slip, even though it isn't apparent
This pic is both good and bad
You see the cross thatch which is good, but look at the gap between the deck and the liner, this was a 4.0 Gems i pulled apart with a tap..
Just check all eight of yours, there shouldn't be any deviations between level..
Oh and hopefully you still have some cross hatch's in your bores
Rockers should be cleaned, disassembled ideally and shot with some brake clean through and through..
Heads the same..
boycie
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I am going to sit in the garden tomorrow if the weather permits cleaning the bits up ,does it look like a top hat block to you ?.
Henry_b
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Dunno can't really see.
If it's the original engine, and you've broke the "seal" then no..
If its a remanufactured engine from Turners or RPI for EX then probably yes..
If it's a LR direst replacement engine then no as they just used units that were off the shelf.
boycie
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