p38 4.6 abs and traction warning light's
- Thread starter panama1uk
- Start date
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eightinavee
Well-Known Member
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- 3,956
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- UK.
Welcome to the mad house ! What year is your car? If its pre 99 then you have a very reliable system that generally only faults when a sensor gets pushed out as a result of a wheel bearing starting to fail.(Jack it up and check for play on the wheel bearings - there should be none.)Other than that it can be down to a failing hydraulic pump/pressure switch or a a failed brake light switch or bulbs.(both together)
99 on it could also be a failed Ecu - they dont seem so reliable as the earlier ones.Trouble is ,according to what the problem is you will need to have it put on testbook to read/clear the fault.The good thing is that the fault codes are fairly accurate - unlike say EAS ones.
Good luck !
99 on it could also be a failed Ecu - they dont seem so reliable as the earlier ones.Trouble is ,according to what the problem is you will need to have it put on testbook to read/clear the fault.The good thing is that the fault codes are fairly accurate - unlike say EAS ones.
Good luck !
Thanks for the fast reply, its a 1996 with 38k , full service history etc. Its my first RR so dont know alot about them but strangely enough I did have a problem with the brake light switch. the travel on the pedel was not quiet enough and the push rod of the switch was not connecting the switch fully so the brake light was ocasionally staying on.
Im a wheel chair user and the hand controls that were fitted a few weeks ago probably moved the pedal slightly, I did adjust the stop so it now turns off okay.
well tomorrow Ill take a look at the sensors seeing if they are fully home.
The RR is good fun and for a big lump has a good turn of speed and the sound is great too, my other car is a BMW 850 ci which performance wise is fantastic and similar in the thirst department .
anyway thanks again
Steve
Im a wheel chair user and the hand controls that were fitted a few weeks ago probably moved the pedal slightly, I did adjust the stop so it now turns off okay.
well tomorrow Ill take a look at the sensors seeing if they are fully home.
The RR is good fun and for a big lump has a good turn of speed and the sound is great too, my other car is a BMW 850 ci which performance wise is fantastic and similar in the thirst department .
anyway thanks again
Steve
cartman690
New Member
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- 623
- Location
- south west (Bristol)
had same lights come on on my td4 brake light switch above pedal wasnt fitted properly re conected and its been fine since...hope yours is this easy cartman690...
It's Fixed !! got a friend to plug in his Pc with a great bit of software (rovacom lite) that got into the RR various brains and told me the fault codes etc then it was able to clear them. The fault was stored and displayed on the instrument panel but was not actually a present fault with the car. It was the foot brake switch all along.
Hence foot brake switch for some reason showed abs traction fault ?
Anyway all okay now
Regards
Steve
Hence foot brake switch for some reason showed abs traction fault ?
Anyway all okay now
Regards
Steve
supapete
Active Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- West wing I think
Hello again, new found pals. Just the same as I've inherited warning lamps abs and traction control. The landrover diagnosis showed up rear near side abs sensor as duff and gave me the part number. I've replaced it-simple enough but the lamps are still on. I've been told by someone who speaks the speak that it isn't all over. I have, now, to "activate" it. Could this mean what I fear- an expensive trip to another LR service department, or is everyone talking scribble? The footbrake switch solution sounded brilliant, did it just clear up after remedy or was further action required after the repair? Are there differences in this issue betwixt the 4litre and the 4.6? Thanks again in advance. regards P.S
supapete
Active Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- West wing I think
Right, I've answered my own question. For the benefit of newcomers such as myself to the range rover dealer and service system: The motor has to be hooked up again to the dealer's kit and the offending fault indicators wiped out and then the whole shooting match has to be re initiated. So, I've paid £52.87 to have the fault diagnosed, fixed it myself-MAYBE- and now I'm paying another £52.87 to see if my repair has worked. All this might have seemed obvious to the throng of experienced owners, but I'm amazed.If what I've gleened isn't the case I'd love to learn about it. regards all P.S
supapete
Active Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- West wing I think
Welcome to the mad house ! What year is your car? If its pre 99 then you have a very reliable system that generally only faults when a sensor gets pushed out as a result of a wheel bearing starting to fail.(Jack it up and check for play on the wheel bearings - there should be none.)Other than that it can be down to a failing hydraulic pump/pressure switch or a a failed brake light switch or bulbs.(both together)
99 on it could also be a failed Ecu - they dont seem so reliable as the earlier ones.Trouble is ,according to what the problem is you will need to have it put on testbook to read/clear the fault.The good thing is that the fault codes are fairly accurate - unlike say EAS ones.
Good luck !
Been to LR and they say ECU. £500. Oh, for it to be the brake light switch! Makes you want to buy "rovacom lite" and its umbilicals and buy everything of ebay! good luck wishes didn't work for me. regards P.S
