P38A P38 2000 2.5 Diesel Central Locking

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MrJ191

MrJ191

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Tewkesbury
Hi Everyone,

After a bit of assistance with what seems to be a one of a kind issue with my central locking.
First up, the car has been off the road for around 1 and a half years as it had to have some work done to it. Now it's working its all good to go however I can't lock it.

I can get into the car, start the engine and drive the car as normal.
However the little red LED in the middle of the dash up under the windscreen doesn't turn on at all.
I've tried to reset the lock with the EKA code but unsuccessful.
Had someone sit in the car and lock it, I can then unlock it with the key but can't lock it.
Also tired to slam lock it by opening the door and pushing the lock down then shutting the door but they all just spring back up again as soon as it shuts.
Tried a spare key but that didn't work.

I've got no error messages regarding windows or engine immobilised on the dash.
I've checked the RF box in the driver side rear of the car and luckily it looks like the green coloured RF unit and it works so that's a plus.

Yeah, just a bit stumped on where to go from here.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Peace ✌️
 
MrJ191 said:
I can get into the car, start the engine and drive the car as normal.
Click to expand...
So locking, unlocking and start-up security checks are all passing off OK.
MrJ191 said:
However the little red LED in the middle of the dash up under the windscreen doesn't turn on at all.
Click to expand...
Agree it should "fast flash for 10 seconds" after initial locking then go to "slow flash". Is it a broken led or wiring to it?
MrJ191 said:
Had someone sit in the car and lock it, I can then unlock it with the key but can't lock it.
Click to expand...
Are all these lock/unlocks on the fob buttons or withthe physical key?
 
DanClarke said:
So locking, unlocking and start-up security checks are all passing off OK.

Agree it should "fast flash for 10 seconds" after initial locking then go to "slow flash". Is it a broken led or wiring to it?

Are all these lock/unlocks on the fob buttons or withthe physical key?
Click to expand...


I'm assuming those checks are all OK'd yeah. I don't receive any error messages telling me otherwise.

I'm currently looking into getting the bulb and wiring out, looks to be a bit of a fiddly job so just getting my head round how to do it without causing another issue

The keyfob isn't doing anything for me so it's all with the key or pushing the lock down itself from inside the car. When I use the buttons on the fob, the LED on the fob flashes but there's no reaction from the car.
So yeah when I had someone sit in the car and lock it, they pushed the lock button down then when I unlocked it it was with the key.
 
dubbleRR said:
when u pull the key out of the ignition ,does it give a good click,,if the car thinks the keys in when its not it wont lock ;)
Click to expand...
Yeah I checked the little like, latch thing, inside the barrel of the ignition and it moves freely. I used to get an error message that mentioned 'key in ignition'or something of the like last year but I haven't seen that at all this time. I sprayed the latch last year and since then I haven't had the message.
 
MrJ191 said:
I'm assuming those checks are all OK'd yeah. I don't receive any error messages telling me otherwise.

I'm currently looking into getting the bulb and wiring out, looks to be a bit of a fiddly job so just getting my head round how to do it without causing another issue

The keyfob isn't doing anything for me so it's all with the key or pushing the lock down itself from inside the car. When I use the buttons on the fob, the LED on the fob flashes but there's no reaction from the car.
So yeah when I had someone sit in the car and lock it, they pushed the lock button down then when I unlocked it it was with the key.
Click to expand...
OK, well that is all a bit odd then. It almost sounds like all the physical locking elements are working from a central locking perspective but your fob's not talking to the RF receiver.
Has the aerial been disconnected on the Green RF receiver? Does it detect the fob button presses if you hold the keyfob directly over the receiver (RH (drivers) side rear quarterlight just behind the back seat)?
It could be that someone has switched off all the security elements in the BeCM. Any ideas Keith? @Datatek
 
The only physical locking element NOT working is the locking of the door. If I put the key in and turn to lock, it does nothing.

Yeah I tried holding it over the RF reader and nothing happens. But after doing it I figured nothing would happen because its not synced or is that wrong thinking?

I did check if the aerial was plugged into the RF reader and its not, but I heard that having it plugged in drains the battery real quick so didn't bother plugging it back in.

I'll Google Nanocom's but I've not heard of it, is it a diagnostics tool?
 
MrJ191 said:
The only physical locking element NOT working is the locking of the door. If I put the key in and turn to lock, it does nothing.

Yeah I tried holding it over the RF reader and nothing happens. But after doing it I figured nothing would happen because its not synced or is that wrong thinking?

I did check if the aerial was plugged into the RF reader and its not, but I heard that having it plugged in drains the battery real quick so didn't bother plugging it back in.

I'll Google Nanocom's but I've not heard of it, is it a diagnostics tool?
Click to expand...
Yes to the Nanocom question,I would hazard a guess that the microswitches are faulty in the door lock, there are three try a search using the box under your name there is a lock test sheet and a member posted not so long ago about replacing them. Welcome by the way.
 
MrJ191 said:
The only physical locking element NOT working is the locking of the door. If I put the key in and turn to lock, it does nothing.
Click to expand...
OK, that's just the physical link from the flag-arm on the key barrel to the door latch.
upload_2022-4-24_15-57-4.png

Part number 8 or 9 I think. Have you taken the door card off to have a look?
 
tomcat59alan said:
Yes to the Nanocom question,I would hazard a guess that the microswitches are faulty in the door lock, there are three try a search using the box under your name there is a lock test sheet and a member posted not so long ago about replacing them. Welcome by the way.
Click to expand...

Just googled Nanocom.
Always an expensive sign when they ask you to contact them for prices
 
DanClarke said:
OK, that's just the physical link from the flag-arm on the key barrel to the door latch.
View attachment 263705
Part number 8 or 9 I think. Have you taken the door card off to have a look?
Click to expand...

I am hopeful it's just that, I had a look on Rimmer Bros and if I'm looking at the right piece, it's pretty cheap.

I tried to take the door card off but freaked myself out when it started to resist so held off on it. Got someone coming round soon and they're going to give me a hand and make sure I don't snap anything off and make this job more expensive
 
With the FOB, it sounds like the rolling code is out of sync. On early cars if the link has dropped off the locking mechanism, it's not possible to re-sync the FOB, later cars,99 onwards I think, have a sync coil in the ignition switch but for that to work the key in place micro switch has to be working.
 
MrJ191 said:
Just googled Nanocom.
Always an expensive sign when they ask you to contact them for prices
Click to expand...
They are £500 I bought one a couple of weeks ago, got mine from a UK seller to avoid any form of import duties took a couple of weeks to get here but is exactly the same price as they charge anyway
 
tomcat59alan said:
Yes to the Nanocom question,I would hazard a guess that the microswitches are faulty in the door lock, there are three try a search using the box under your name there is a lock test sheet and a member posted not so long ago about replacing them. Welcome by the way.
Click to expand...
Sorry I misunderstood your description of the problem, welcome any way.
 
Lock it from inside then climb out the boot :p You have to open the boot first.

The door cards are fragile. 2 screws in grab handle, 1 in behind the door handle and one behind the tweeter panel (speaker cover prises off).
Then prise the poppers out around the door with something flat. GENTLY as these want to break. I start bottom corner
Then lifts out slightly and up over the lock pin.
Refit is reverse but you need to align/fix all the poppers first
 
Hopefully the link will have disconnected,the arm on the back of the lock can break,as I know.this is the setup found my spare in the garage.
 

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MrJ191 said:
Just googled Nanocom.
Always an expensive sign when they ask you to contact them for prices
Click to expand...

Might be someone nearby with one. Check the Landyzone International Rescue Map.

Worth giving the ignition barrel a squirt of contact cleaner and graphite lube, just in case. Then Marty's lock tests.
 
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