tomcat59alan
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It's a very expensive o ring for what it is. I have a reference number PES100150L and it cost me £4.80 try a BMW dealer it may be cheaper from them.
P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump
- Thread starter synchro
- Start date
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tomcat59alan
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Ooo,I wouldn't have fitted one of them.
Ooo,I wouldn't have fitted one of them.
Why not
i tried to purchase one which had an extra screw to mount cable shoes too, but it was out of stock forever.
Why is dis bad pls explain
tomcat59alan
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JOKE, thought you were up to speed with our twisted sense of " humour"Why not
i tried to purchase one which had an extra screw to mount cable shoes too, but it was out of stock forever.
Why is dis bad pls explain
JOKE, thought you were up to speed with our twisted sense of " humour"
thank god
The only reason i were thinking it was wrong was because i bougth it at a «cheap» warehouse.
You can almost compare it with wish
My o ring should come on monday-tuesday.
I bought it from bmw parts store
tomcat59alan
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How much did you have to pay? I was surprised at the price considering what it is better use the right one,do it once and all that.thank god
The only reason i were thinking it was wrong was because i bougth it at a «cheap» warehouse.
You can almost compare it with wish
My o ring should come on monday-tuesday.
I bought it from bmw parts store
8.5 pounds.
Guess its not that shabby. I just find the material weird, but im not an electrician and like if it has a better or worse flow of electricity than the original one. Hopefully not worse
It does have some weight to it atleast!
If im not mistaken, the 2 large wires, one of them go to the starter, the second to the fuse box, and the smallest is the glowplug/relay?
the yellow one on the pic is for my sub and amp in the trunk, blue for LED headlights.
Guess its not that shabby. I just find the material weird, but im not an electrician and like if it has a better or worse flow of electricity than the original one. Hopefully not worse
It does have some weight to it atleast!
If im not mistaken, the 2 large wires, one of them go to the starter, the second to the fuse box, and the smallest is the glowplug/relay?
the yellow one on the pic is for my sub and amp in the trunk, blue for LED headlights.
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Oooh Alan you are teaseJOKE, thought you were up to speed with our twisted sense of " humour"
tomcat59alan
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I meant for the O ring mate.8.5 pounds.
Guess its not that shabby. I just find the material weird, but im not an electrician and like if it has a better or worse flow of electricity than the original one. Hopefully not worse
It does have some weight to it atleast!
If im not mistaken, the 2 large wires, one of them go to the starter, the second to the fuse box, and the smallest is the glowplug/relay?
the yellow one on the pic is for my sub and amp in the trunk, blue for LED headlights.
oh, like 3 pounds or smthI meant for the O ring mate.
well i got the oring and i swapped it out. the old one were black and quite brittle/stiff.
New one were blue, but perfect fitment, and it is now leak free.
Now on to bleeding this...
I forgot to mount the fan shroud tho i coppa slipped the fan
New one were blue, but perfect fitment, and it is now leak free.
Now on to bleeding this...
I forgot to mount the fan shroud tho
i coppa slipped the fanlooks like it runs as it should at idle atleast, not overheating or anything.
prob gonna take it for a test run tommorow. front tires are almost flat, so gotta air em up
I get heat out my vents atleast
I think my new battery did some magic stuff, because the car starts even faster now
Sadly it seems like my HVAC screen has almost taken holiday during this ****storm
It looks like pixel damage? Dunno. Will make a new thread on other stuff.
This thread was about fiixng waterpump and cooling system. hopefully car wont overheat now... (will check this tmw)
Do i need a AC belt anyhow? Only harm it will do is not spinning the pulleys ay? the AC system dosnt work anyhow, bad blender motors.
prob gonna take it for a test run tommorow. front tires are almost flat, so gotta air em up
I get heat out my vents atleast
I think my new battery did some magic stuff, because the car starts even faster now
Sadly it seems like my HVAC screen has almost taken holiday during this ****storm
It looks like pixel damage? Dunno. Will make a new thread on other stuff.
This thread was about fiixng waterpump and cooling system. hopefully car wont overheat now... (will check this tmw)
Do i need a AC belt anyhow? Only harm it will do is not spinning the pulleys ay? the AC system dosnt work anyhow, bad blender motors.
tomcat59alan
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My O ring was yellow if I remember correctly, but yours came from BMW , shouldn't matter. The Hevac screen is probably because of damp while standing.put heat on full may cure it or search Zebra strip Hevac repair on the Bay. I'd say run it with a/c on to dry it out but you'll have to fit a belt to see if it works.well i got the oring and i swapped it out. the old one were black and quite brittle/stiff.
New one were blue, but perfect fitment, and it is now leak free.
Now on to bleeding this...
I forgot to mount the fan shroud tho
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looks like it runs as it should at idle atleast, not overheating or anything.
prob gonna take it for a test run tommorow. front tires are almost flat, so gotta air em up
I get heat out my vents atleast
I think my new battery did some magic stuff, because the car starts even faster now
Sadly it seems like my HVAC screen has almost taken holiday during this ****storm
It looks like pixel damage? Dunno. Will make a new thread on other stuff.
This thread was about fiixng waterpump and cooling system. hopefully car wont overheat now... (will check this tmw)
Do i need a AC belt anyhow? Only harm it will do is not spinning the pulleys ay? the AC system dosnt work anyhow, bad blender motors.
Is the display on the HEVAC there but just dark? You can replace the bulbs that supply the light. There's the dimmer switch on the stalk to brighten all dash lights too.
Personally I would get the AC belt on and repair the AC. Usually it is the condenser that leaks. Mine had a failed thermostatic expansion valve. Both cheap and easy but if you take it to be regassed then anyone competent will pick up any leaks or a bad TXV. Martyuk does a repair kit for the HEVAC.
Its both abit dark and missing pixels, when i take off interior light (dash light) screen goes brigther.
Last edited:
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
@martyuk has been away since the pandemic started so I am unsure what his stock levels are like but here's his site:
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=75
Datatek
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There are no pixels on the HEVAC display, it uses 7 segment bars. They often recover with heat/dehumidification from the aircon. Running the aircon protects the electronics from condensation and corrosion as it dries the air. Should be on all the time especially in winter.
Seems i have quite the problem bleeding it
I Didn't blow trough the small bleed hose which goes from top of rad to expansion tank, but i will say that it does run coolant out of it when engine is idling and thermostat is open.
My symptoms are still that the gauge is fluctuating. It was at red 2 times, then it went down to 12 o clock again... Nanocom said i have around 85-90 ish celsius at idle with heater off. Heater on is under 80 celsius idle.
What are the OK temps to drive this thing at? isnt 90degrees operating temp? so, 95 would be hot hot and 100 would be meaning somethings wrong rigth?
My understanding is that 12 o clock could be 70-90 degrees?
One thing to note is that its almost worse than how it performed earlier, so it should just mean i have a bigger air lock????
I've changed waterpump, thermostat (opens 1 degree faster, 79celsius) and yes ive put the thermostat in a pot of hot water, it works.
also done both belts and tensioner pulleys and idler pulley.
So i must either have an airlock or just a trash engine/ crack in the head/block?
I find it odd that my coolant has no oil in it, or oil having coolant...
And all of this was good and not any issues before i changed my heater matrix o rings... (and had the hoses at matrix of)
I Didn't blow trough the small bleed hose which goes from top of rad to expansion tank, but i will say that it does run coolant out of it when engine is idling and thermostat is open.
My symptoms are still that the gauge is fluctuating. It was at red 2 times, then it went down to 12 o clock again... Nanocom said i have around 85-90 ish celsius at idle with heater off. Heater on is under 80 celsius idle.
What are the OK temps to drive this thing at? isnt 90degrees operating temp? so, 95 would be hot hot and 100 would be meaning somethings wrong rigth?
My understanding is that 12 o clock could be 70-90 degrees?
One thing to note is that its almost worse than how it performed earlier, so it should just mean i have a bigger air lock????
I've changed waterpump, thermostat (opens 1 degree faster, 79celsius) and yes ive put the thermostat in a pot of hot water, it works.
also done both belts and tensioner pulleys and idler pulley.
So i must either have an airlock or just a trash engine/ crack in the head/block?
I find it odd that my coolant has no oil in it, or oil having coolant...
And all of this was good and not any issues before i changed my heater matrix o rings... (and had the hoses at matrix of)
