brianp38dse
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The diesel rad is well known for splitting at the top, the nissens ones are a good replacement.
P38 2.5 DHSE Engine noise and oil light
- Thread starter vtwin
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
+1. Had a Nissens on mine a few years now with no issues.
Datatek
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But they also split eventually. Got an all metal one on my rescue P38.
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I thought about that myself, a full aluminium unit.
Where did you get it D'?
Datatek
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Made to order in France, came with the scrap P38 with a cracked cylinder head I bought for parts. Not alloy, old fashioned brass, at least the headers are.
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Ooh that's old school stuff. Nice.
tomcat59alan
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Checkout the Bay, there's a firm that make rads for the racing fraternity my mate bought oneand it looked very mpressive, all alluminium think it was about £120.
Fitted my standby rad yesterday, its an original but the fins are pretty bad, anyway took it into the garage to have the exhaust fume test done on the water, it came up positive pretty quickly at high rpm, they said its not always 100% but usually is! I have got an engine in a junker same type plastic manifold and it never suffered from any overheating or overpressure issues when I used to drive it for a few years.
If I get the head off it, do I have to remove the valves and injectors for pressure testing and or anything else needs to be stripped off?
If I get the head off it, do I have to remove the valves and injectors for pressure testing and or anything else needs to be stripped off?
Datatek
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Pressure testing often fails to show a problem on the M51 head, so you may be wasting your time if it has never overheated. Be aware, the head cannot be skimmed.
tomcat59alan
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DpIRacing, £174. All aluminium but you have to wait for delivery from Shanghi , sure I posted this yesterday but I cannot see it.
- Posts
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Heard mixed reports on that. I think if it is a very, very light skim you might get away with it. Best just to get one off a scrapper though.
Getting the head off the old car to see what its like, but I ****ted about all afternoon trying to release the top timing chain pressure, got the right tools but just don't seem to get it pulled over enough to get the pin located to hold the tensioner in. Cannot see anything wrong, even tried a slightly smaller pin and put a point on the end but something's wrong somewhere. Any ideas?
tomcat59alan
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Is the lever correctly located to allow the guide to pushed back against the tensioner? Is there any movement at all in the tensioner?it may have jacked itself out past the point of no return..
I am using the second screw down as the pivot point, I have to remove the screw put the tool in and reinsert the screw, the groove on the tool is on the tensioner side rail and it does move and slacks of the chain a bit but maybe not enough, I am pushing the pin through the small hole to the top of the access hole but it does not seem to go in far enough to catch anything. Keep looking at the RAVE and it looks right.
tomcat59alan
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My mate lent me his pin that he said he had used , when i bought my own kit his pin was too short to be of any use. I could measure my pin if it's any hrlp.
tomcat59alan
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My mate lent me his pin that he said he had used , when i bought my own kit his pin was too short to be of any use. I could measure my pin if it's any help.
tomcat59alan
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My pin is 9 cm from the curl to the end.job for tomorrow, pick up all the split pins and put them back in the box I knocked off the shelf.
Thanks for the help, same 9cm pin length, I did manage to get the head off but it was a struggle, I will take the lever tool into the dealers and match it up to see if its any different.
The hollow dowel collars are in the block and on the engine I am going to use they will come off in the head as per last time, does anyone know if they are available as I am sure they wont come out in good condition?
Checked the head today at a machine shop using a top grade straight edge and it all looks good so will be swapping heads over at the next opportunity.
The hollow dowel collars are in the block and on the engine I am going to use they will come off in the head as per last time, does anyone know if they are available as I am sure they wont come out in good condition?
Checked the head today at a machine shop using a top grade straight edge and it all looks good so will be swapping heads over at the next opportunity.
