(P38 2.5 deisel) Cutting out, Engine not responding to Throttle!

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cvloenen

Member
Posts
29
Unfortunately the Old Trusty Machine is playing up.
If the car starts and runs fine it will after about 20 mins start playing up, power deterioates, idle goes up and down, then engine starts cutting out at speed and at idle, and also at this stage if it does idle it does'nt respond to throttle movement. Done this two days in a row now.
Could it be the throttle potentiometer on the way out quickly? Any tests I could carry out to confirm fault lies there.
Any other suggestions where the fault may lie, and what to look for?
 
Live Data on Nanocom/Faultmate looking at fuel quantity information or pump timing modulation could show something.

If it is temp related, it could be the Crank sensor breaking down in the heat, Coolant temp sensor giving false readings to the ECU or FIP internal electrics failing in the heat....

Chain stretch possibly as when the engine heats up, pump timing needs to adjust to compensate...if there is stretch in the chain, maybe the pump can't time itself to the place needed....

Wammers is the diesel guru....
 
Saint.V8 said:
Live Data on Nanocom/Faultmate looking at fuel quantity information or pump timing modulation could show something.

If it is temp related, it could be the Crank sensor breaking down in the heat, Coolant temp sensor giving false readings to the ECU or FIP internal electrics failing in the heat....

Chain stretch possibly as when the engine heats up, pump timing needs to adjust to compensate...if there is stretch in the chain, maybe the pump can't time itself to the place needed....

Wammers is the diesel guru....
Click to expand...
You outline things very well Ant. Diag needed then we can maybe suggest something a little more positive. ;);)
 
Personally ,I have had 5 petrol range rovers from the 2 door to the 3.9. 4 door and loved them all, my latest is a 2.5 DSE and I love it , its quiet,smooth and plenty powerful including pulling my caravan. I was very unsure when I bought it,but I love it.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Live Data on Nanocom/Faultmate looking at fuel quantity information or pump timing modulation could show something.

If it is temp related, it could be the Crank sensor breaking down in the heat, Coolant temp sensor giving false readings to the ECU or FIP internal electrics failing in the heat....

Chain stretch possibly as when the engine heats up, pump timing needs to adjust to compensate...if there is stretch in the chain, maybe the pump can't time itself to the place needed....

Wammers is the diesel guru....
Click to expand...

I think its probably not temp related as when it was cold this morning the problem was apparent imediately on start up, then it stalled after 2 mins of rough idling. Next time I start it, probably tonight, it will probably be ok again till i drive a few miles. Also when warm and the probs come on, it will now and again knock itself right again and proper full smooth power is restored. Im thinking its faulty communication between the throttle potetiometer and the FIP, Does anyone know a good test I could run myself on the Potentiometer? I have a multimeter, thats it.
Just for thought, the Relay /fuse Box behind the battery has that electrical hot smell! Its always been like that, does the boxes components normally get hot? About 2 years ago I had smoke coming out of it, I quickly disconnected the battery, connected it up again, and its been fine ever since.
 
cvloenen said:
I think its probably not temp related as when it was cold this morning the problem was apparent imediately on start up, then it stalled after 2 mins of rough idling. Next time I start it, probably tonight, it will probably be ok again till i drive a few miles. Also when warm and the probs come on, it will now and again knock itself right again and proper full smooth power is restored. Im thinking its faulty communication between the throttle potetiometer and the FIP, Does anyone know a good test I could run myself on the Potentiometer? I have a multimeter, thats it.
Just for thought, the Relay /fuse Box behind the battery has that electrical hot smell! Its always been like that, does the boxes components normally get hot? About 2 years ago I had smoke coming out of it, I quickly disconnected the battery, connected it up again, and its been fine ever since.
Click to expand...

Put it in diag or you will be playing guess the cause for the rest of the year. You could after reading your last comment try changing the fuse box for a start. It may not help your problem but it would be a sensible move. See what you get.
 
wammers said:
Put it in diag or you will be playing guess the cause for the rest of the year. You could after reading your last comment try changing the fuse box for a start. It may not help your problem but it would be a sensible move. See what you get.
Click to expand...

Im a bit reluctant to pay a garage to run Daig because its pretty expensive, and from experience its never helped with other cars Ive had:(
Do the Relays normally get quite hot in that box to the extant you get electrical smells? Car has been going fine since it smoked two years ago, think id b better looking at the Potentiometer communication b4 putting money out on parts that may still be fine. Its a 1998, so it doesnt hav great deal of value, so I want to try and repair without to much cost.
 
Littelwill said:
Come on dont tell me the 2.5 diesel is big enough for the RR P38...
Click to expand...
More than big enough especially if it's chipped. Mine will easily keep up with a 4.0 and keep up with most cars when towing my 1800 kg caravan.:p:)
 

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cvloenen said:
Im a bit reluctant to pay a garage to run Daig because its pretty expensive, and from experience its never helped with other cars Ive had:(
Do the Relays normally get quite hot in that box to the extant you get electrical smells? Car has been going fine since it smoked two years ago, think id b better looking at the Potentiometer communication b4 putting money out on parts that may still be fine. Its a 1998, so it doesnt hav great deal of value, so I want to try and repair without to much cost.
Click to expand...

If the fuse box smoked change it, make sure you get the correct one. No the fuse box should not get hot and smell of burning. Warm maybe but not hot. Where are you someone may be near who can run Nanocom on it? Many garage units unless they are very good will not diagnose a P38 diesel. You can be playing for ever guessing. You cannot maintain a P38 for Corsa prices.
 
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