P38 2.5 Auto.....problem

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It started last week with the car starting to run rough. As I use waste veg oil thought I would change the fuel filter although it was only changed a week ago. Running rough still and getting very hard to start, the starter motor fell off. I was also thinking the intank pump has failed so I rigged up an electic replacement. Got starter repaired, charged battery, even with new fuel pump it wouldnt fire. Getting fuel through but not firing, gave it a sniff of easy start and it ran. Rev counter not working and reving and approx 3000rpm.

Done some searching and thinking possible the crank position sender is throwing a wobble. I have a nanicom that I have never yet used so I guess it is time to start learrning!!!

Any other thoughts appreciated.
 
It started last week with the car starting to run rough. As I use waste veg oil thought I would change the fuel filter although it was only changed a week ago. Running rough still and getting very hard to start, the starter motor fell off. I was also thinking the intank pump has failed so I rigged up an electic replacement. Got starter repaired, charged battery, even with new fuel pump it wouldnt fire. Getting fuel through but not firing, gave it a sniff of easy start and it ran. Rev counter not working and reving and approx 3000rpm.

Done some searching and thinking possible the crank position sender is throwing a wobble. I have a nanicom that I have never yet used so I guess it is time to start learrning!!!

Any other thoughts appreciated.
Rev counter is driven from the ECM I think at 3 pulses per rev.
Waste Veg oil is slow death, ask johnnycrash. Worth checking the CPS and the ECM connector but could be the FIP is fecked.
 
I know that waste veg has its problems, I filter and dewater and have run 325tds without issues previously. The fip is usually regarded as being fine on oil on these units but you never know!!!!!!!

Look at the side of your chip pan then picture the inside of your injection pump. If you run veg oil minimum is 50/50 with dino fuel. Look at the crank sensor.
 
Well finally got round to getting the nanocom registered and it says fault with engine speed sensor. I guess this is the Crank position sensor that was first suspected.

As it is a bank holiday and now raining very hard it can wait until tomorrow. Looks like a hex bolt holding the sensor to the bracket. From what i have read, unbolt the sensor and dont touch the bracket or special tool required to reset.

Does anyone know the size of the hex head????
 
New CPS, started eventually, still running at approx 3000rpm, no rev counter, now giving faulty alternator message.
Alternator off and reconditioned, started eventually, same again and still have the engine speed sensor fault on the nanocom.
Time is a little short this week as wife is away and I have little un all week so hopefully at the weekend will be able to check wiring and connections to engine ECU. When running the EAS is not working, looked at that on nanocom and it is saying that can't detect speed. I hope this will fall into place when I solve the engine problem.
Will report back later.
 
New CPS, started eventually, still running at approx 3000rpm, no rev counter, now giving faulty alternator message.
Alternator off and reconditioned, started eventually, same again and still have the engine speed sensor fault on the nanocom.
Time is a little short this week as wife is away and I have little un all week so hopefully at the weekend will be able to check wiring and connections to engine ECU. When running the EAS is not working, looked at that on nanocom and it is saying that can't detect speed. I hope this will fall into place when I solve the engine problem.
Will report back later.

If it's running at 3000 it is using the number four injector for speed reference the CPS is not working.
 
Right, well as stated above after running my car on WVO, SVO, Bio and Black Diesel mine eventually died, but after a rebuild is running tip top again :)

forget the CPS unless it throws up on your Nanocom chances (well 99%) are it will be working, fuel filter changes are pointless this time of year veg oil only blocks them during winter.

If you're having to keep the revs above 3k then you have blocked or sticking injectors (esp No4) I have a guide on here if you fancy a go yourself.

the in tank pump is also worth checking as running anything thicker than dino juice kills them off quite quick
 
Right, well as stated above after running my car on WVO, SVO, Bio and Black Diesel mine eventually died, but after a rebuild is running tip top again :)

forget the CPS unless it throws up on your Nanocom chances (well 99%) are it will be working, fuel filter changes are pointless this time of year veg oil only blocks them during winter.

If you're having to keep the revs above 3k then you have blocked or sticking injectors (esp No4) I have a guide on here if you fancy a go yourself.

the in tank pump is also worth checking as running anything thicker than dino juice kills them off quite quick

Nothing to do with injectors if the CPS is not giving a signal the engine WILL run at around 3000 RPM because the ECU has nothing to compare the signal from number four injector to. Disconnect your CPS and try it.
 
Tangential but when you get it running again you might want to have a look. No affiliation but veg. oil or indeed wvo isn't the same as dino diesel so right tool for the job and all that. I think these people do decent lift pumps and replacement injectors for running veg oil:

ANC-ELSBETT-GREASEnergy - Engine technology

Might be worth the investment, especially considering the ball-ache getting to the lift pump?
 
Tangential but when you get it running again you might want to have a look. No affiliation but veg. oil or indeed wvo isn't the same as dino diesel so right tool for the job and all that. I think these people do decent lift pumps and replacement injectors for running veg oil:

ANC-ELSBETT-GREASEnergy - Engine technology

Might be worth the investment, especially considering the ball-ache getting to the lift pump?

I currently have wired in another pump. The good thing on the P38 is when the in tank pump fails it doesn't block. This problem is not fuel.
 
And the answer is...........wire on the connector to the CPS had snapped off!!!!

So thank you Keith and Wammers for the pointing in the right direction. Rejoined the wire, car fired straight up, ticked over nicely, air suspension raised and I smiled!!!!

Need to finish the fuel pump instal and tidy up the CPS wiring but at least the problem is solved!!!
 
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