Overland prep for L322

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Super thanks!!

I don't need some of the things like immobiliser and wondering what else can be programed out - really need an auto electrician on here or local to me.

Gearbox seems the other big issue and as you say if I could get a strong manual box I may even be able to chip the engine and save a bit on mpg - if the standard box can't even handle the weight of the RR it's going to have a tough time towing
 
If you insist on using a 322 I'd consider putting it back on air as you are towing, you'd be very popular blinding oncoming traffic. What's the bodywork like around the rear wheel arches and sills?
 
Rezo said:
Super thanks!!

I don't need some of the things like immobiliser and wondering what else can be programed out - really need an auto electrician on here or local to me.

Gearbox seems the other big issue and as you say if I could get a strong manual box I may even be able to chip the engine and save a bit on mpg - if the standard box can't even handle the weight of the RR it's going to have a tough time towing
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so the manual is a possible conversion. Depands on how much you prefer auot or manual. Ideally if funds are of a reasonable level you can change pretty much what you want. :D
 
Arches are just starting to bubble and sills are rusty but shouldn't affect the integral part of the structure/subframes - I'll have a good poke around with a big crowbar when I get it up in the air - if it's in reasonable condition I will monitor it on route but get it totally sorted once in Laos - where welding costs a fraction of the price and can be done to a very high standard with the right welders.

Regarding the lights that's a very valid point which I will look into - I'm NOT going to change the springs as these will be much more reliable than the air shocks - I will find another way to sort the problem - maybe spring assisters on the rear or a slight lift I'm not sure - my towbar is adjustable for height and I don't tend to put much weight on the front of a caravan.
Thanks for the advice :)
 
I'm seriously interested in fitting a manual box - there is a choice from the BMW stable but I don't have a workshop anymore so would need to find the right person who could do it for me - if looked after the TD6 engine seems quite reliable although could be slightly underpowered on the mountains if we have to go the Stans route and through southern China
 
Rezo said:
it's in reasonable condition I will monitor it on route but get it totally sorted once in Laos - where welding costs a fraction of the price and can be done to a very high standard with the right welders.
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I might be wrong but your vehicle used a steel on sills and arches which is a bit difficult to weld so I would be wary of a stick welder with sunglases in Laos doing the job...
 
Shippers said:
I might be wrong but your vehicle used a steel on sills and arches which is a bit difficult to weld so I would be wary of a stick welder with sunglases in Laos doing the job...
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Thanks - most of the good welders over there use Mig or gas but yes I have seen a few efforts with stick welding ;)
 
Rezo said:
Arches are just starting to bubble and sills are rusty but shouldn't affect the integral part of the structure/subframes - I'll have a good poke around with a big crowbar when I get it up in the air - if it's in reasonable condition I will monitor it on route but get it totally sorted once in Laos - where welding costs a fraction of the price and can be done to a very high standard with the right welders.

Regarding the lights that's a very valid point which I will look into - I'm NOT going to change the springs as these will be much more reliable than the air shocks - I will find another way to sort the problem - maybe spring assisters on the rear or a slight lift I'm not sure - my towbar is adjustable for height and I don't tend to put much weight on the front of a caravan.
Thanks for the advice :)
Click to expand...
The wheel arches rot on the outside which yo can see and the inside which you can't.Springs reliable???? Until they break they're made from Chinesium these days,I lost count of how many I changed on the X type Jag. The steel used in the body has a high Boron content so makes welding a challenge,short weld runs to keep the heat input to a minimum otherwise it will crack when cooling.
 
As I said I'll have a good poke around when it's up in the air - and removed inner plastic arches and sill covers and anything else needed
 
Rezo said:
Hi - new here so don't be too hard ;).

I've bought a couple of L322's with the td6 engines. One will be shipped over to Asia and the other will be driven to Laos next year towing a caravan with 3 of my children.

Trying to get the preparation right for the overland one and make it as reliable as possible. I know the gearboxes and suspension can be weak links but looking at everything thing else as well. I have my ideas on what to change but am looking for advice from others first.
Thanks in anticipation
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What year?

The diagnostics changes. RSW does some cheap stuff. Gap IID is pricey but good reviews although not sure it does early cars. BMW INPA software is free and should do most things, albeit in german.

Gearbox and front propshaft - notorious depending on the year. @Bemble is the resident expert there.

Check all the brake lines thoroughly. They rot for fun.

I cannot recall if the L322 TD6 is the one with multiple fuel pumps? I cannot recall if it has the Ford lump that chews cranks either - think that was just the Disco?

If on air then you'll need lots of compressors, spares and some sort of emergency inflation kit.

I don't know if any particular module dies on the CANBUS but I do remember @Saint.V8 had one module blow which caused all sorts of ghost issues.

Might have been something odd with the ignition switch too. @myfirstl322 or @holidaychicken would know.

Either way you're a brave man and best of luck - you'll need it! Like they say in Oz: if you want to go into the bush get a Land Rover; if you want to cone back then take a Toyota.

@ovalandrover has plenty of experience lapping tye globe in a Rangie. Balls like Buster Gonad.
 
Grrrrrr said:
What year?

The diagnostics changes. RSW does some cheap stuff. Gap IID is pricey but good reviews although not sure it does early cars. BMW INPA software is free and should do most things, albeit in german.

Gearbox and front propshaft - notorious depending on the year. @Bemble is the resident expert there.

Check all the brake lines thoroughly. They rot for fun.

I cannot recall if the L322 TD6 is the one with multiple fuel pumps? I cannot recall if it has the Ford lump that chews cranks either - think that was just the Disco?

If on air then you'll need lots of compressors, spares and some sort of emergency inflation kit.

I don't know if any particular module dies on the CANBUS but I do remember @Saint.V8 had one module blow which caused all sorts of ghost issues.

Might have been something odd with the ignition switch too. @myfirstl322 or @holidaychicken would know.

Either way you're a brave man and best of luck - you'll need it! Like they say in Oz: if you want to go into the bush get a Land Rover; if you want to cone back then take a Toyota.

@ovalandrover has plenty of experience lapping tye globe in a Rangie. Balls like Buster Gonad.
Click to expand...
The L322 BMW M57 engine is pretty strong, it does not chew cranks. There are indeed multiple fuel pumps.
Ignition switch is a known failure item.
 
Grrrrrr said:
What year?

The diagnostics changes. RSW does some cheap stuff. Gap IID is pricey but good reviews although not sure it does early cars. BMW INPA software is free and should do most things, albeit in german.

Gearbox and front propshaft - notorious depending on the year. @Bemble is the resident expert there.

Check all the brake lines thoroughly. They rot for fun.

I cannot recall if the L322 TD6 is the one with multiple fuel pumps? I cannot recall if it has the Ford lump that chews cranks either - think that was just the Disco?

If on air then you'll need lots of compressors, spares and some sort of emergency inflation kit.

I don't know if any particular module dies on the CANBUS but I do remember @Saint.V8 had one module blow which caused all sorts of ghost issues.

Might have been something odd with the ignition switch too. @myfirstl322 or @holidaychicken would know.

Either way you're a brave man and best of luck - you'll need it! Like they say in Oz: if you want to go into the bush get a Land Rover; if you want to cone back then take a Toyota.

@ovalandrover has plenty of experience lapping tye globe in a Rangie. Balls like Buster Gonad.
Click to expand...
I'm afraid all I can offer is that the TD6 is definitely not a Ford unit it's a beemer straight six doozle fool, is that how you spell fuel? yes the badges are similar in shape...but that is only because you can't copyright shapes.

I'm quite delighted vexed that both my L322's behaved in such a way as to deny me any real learning, but I suppose I can console myself in the fact that I managed to successfully flip an S/C in such a way that the roof skin, pillars and paintwork remained unscathed @RangeRoller dt after I weldered and painted the sills and removed 2 gallons of water out of the SWW.
 
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Rezo said:
Thanks guys

Someone has done something similar although the vehicle would have been a lot newer - the one I'm looking to take is a 2004
Trip in a L322 down to S Africa

http://www.lilongwedown.com/LilongweDown/Vehicle.html
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Ah. 2004 is with the GM box made of cheese and the dodgy front prop / diff that required a recall. Water pump can fail and injectors can sometimes be a bit tricky. I'd need to check the RSW Solutions website but I think that is the older diag so probably best with INPA.
 
badfluffy said:
there are upgraded solenoids by sonex, and there is at least one manual l322 running round
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The upgraded solenoid interests me, I think I am just about to have to change the one on our dreaded GM 5 speed!

REZO Apart from the gearbox what I would suggest for such a trek is to upgrade to ventilated Brembos all round, otherwise you will be chewing though pads and discs.
 
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