Overheating

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marcus d

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Lincoln
More help please. My 1995 P38 4.6 is overheating when left ticking over on a hot day, OK you might say don't let it tick over on a hot day but I am worried about getting stuck in traffic and it overheating, water p*ss*s out of the overflow pipe ontop of the coolant fill level and this accelerates the overheat!!! Ant ideas, is it the thermostat?
 
most likely the stat. why not remove it completely during this hot weather?
should never overheat then, in traffic.
 
Thanx Ormus, wasn't aware that would work but might give it a go at the weekend, any tips on how or possible problems?
 
marcus d said:
More help please. My 1995 P38 4.6 is overheating when left ticking over on a hot day, OK you might say don't let it tick over on a hot day but I am worried about getting stuck in traffic and it overheating, water p*ss*s out of the overflow pipe ontop of the coolant fill level and this accelerates the overheat!!! Ant ideas, is it the thermostat?

Hi Marcus,

Had exactly this problem on my 1997 P38 4.6 last year. Started with a coolant leak (heater matrix o-rings) then water pump seal. Once they were fixed it progressed to pouring out the overflow pipe. Seemed to happen more in slow traffic I think because of the slower coolant circulation at tick-over. Basically there is excess pressure build-up in the coolant system which causes it to leak out of every orrifice until ultimately it gets to the overflow cap pressure valve. What happens is your coolant gets p155ed out the overflow pipe and then the engine stat overheats because the water starts to boil due to low coolant level. Tried to fix it with a new head gasket but in the end had to go for a new engine (diagnosis: likely slipped liner). Engine had done 110k miles. If your engine has done >80k I'm led to believe this is likely.

Sorry if this seems like bad news - but symptoms are identical and I tried everything to solve the problem before ultimately having to succumb to the inevitable new engine.:(

I have heard that blocked or poorly circulating radiators can also cause overheating - a local RR expert put a laser heat gun over the entire radiator on mine to check this first and there were no cold spots - you might like to check this too.

I have heard of stats being unreliable on the LRs but the RRs are more ok and the stat won't explain why you have so much pressure in the system that it's coming over the overflow pipe.

Hope this helps.
Richard.
 
I had the same trouble with my 98 Range rover.

I used an American ceramic sealant as a last chance repair before going for the new engine.

That was last Nov - It hasn't used any water since (apart from this week - it looks like the water pump this time - certainly not pressurising as it leaked on cold startup this morning!!)

It cost me about £60 for a thorogh flush and sealant and about half a day to do it - worth a try!

Regards

G
 
thanx for all the advice, i went to take out the thermo and its not there!!! The problem got worse, called the AA to tow me home, the AA bloke was clueless!!! Since getting home I realised there was a major airlock in the coolant system, can't work out where the air is getting in though. Since filling the coolant properly (only a few miles) it has run fine. I have left it stationary ticking over for 15 minutes though. The water and oil are both clean, I just don't know what to do next, where can the air be coming from???
 
Luckysh1t said:
I had the same trouble with my 98 Range rover.

I used an American ceramic sealant as a last chance repair before going for the new engine.

That was last Nov - It hasn't used any water since (apart from this week - it looks like the water pump this time - certainly not pressurising as it leaked on cold startup this morning!!)

It cost me about £60 for a thorogh flush and sealant and about half a day to do it - worth a try!

Regards

G

Are you saying you used a ceramic sealant on the cylinder head?:confused:
 
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