Overheating

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Landyfox

Well-Known Member
Just when everything was running smoothly.... Or so I thought!!!!

Normally my old girl (94 Defender 300TDI) is able to reach its regular temperature within 2-4miles of driving, if sitting idling it takes a good 15/20 minutes. The normal temperature is usually represented on the gauge as 3/4 (just over halfway), and will sit there all day long without any problem. However, 3 month ago when collecting a classic mini on a Brian Johnson trailer and driving it back under load the temperature appeared to rise significantly on two separate occasions whilst climbing two pretty big inclines. Before allowing it to reach the red mark, I pulled over and stopped for a short while (15 mins max) allowing it to cool down which it was able to do successfully before setting off again. Once I reached home I give the landy a once over and found everything to be as it should. No coolant loss or oil in the water, no oil loss or water in oil and so on. Since that journey I've not had any further overheating issue until last Friday when I was doing a 60mile motorway drive. Everything appeared fine, temp gauge sitting normally around the 3/4 mark costing at 60mph. I must have covered maybe 15 miles whilst travelling 70mph when I noticed that the temperature gauge had move up towards the red, not touching but pretty damn close to it. I immediately eased up on the peddle and completed the remaining 40mile doing 50/55mph with gauge dropping slightly and maintaining its position.

Upon inspection:
- No coolant leaks visible. Water pump dry, P-Gasket Dry all pipes dry and intact, heater matrix no obvious leak (I normally top up coolant once every 2/3 months with no more than 1/4 of pint needed - is this normal.?!
- The heater gets warm, not hot, hot but could be argued my warm is LR hot.
- All the pipes are warm as expected.
Radiator warm all over, cooling slightly towards the bottom.
- Full coolant system bled via thermostat housing and rad (both have brass screws).
- Expansion tank appears intact with no sign of leaking or bubbling with engine running at start up.
- I've not been able to verify thermostat as I can't get the bloody bottom bolt out, the head is completely round - even a 3/8 socket just turns on it. (I wouldn't have thought the thermostat was to blame as its only used to get the system up to running temperature quicker.?!
- Oil is clear with no mayo or sludge visible, likewise no oil is evident in the coolant.
- Water pump can be heard but nothing which would concern me, no high pitch whining etc.
- Viscus fan spins as it should.
- No sign of blue or white smoke at start up or whilst driving.

Since Friday I've completed the same journey twice but never exceeding 60mph and everything has been fine.

I would like to get to the bottom of this, in fact I would love the temperature gauge sitting at or below the halfway mark and not at the 3/4. Sadly I'm not in a position to just throw cash at it and hope that I eventually find the cause by process of elimination. Obvious concern is a HGF. Timing belt was changed last year and the old girl idles nicely and pulls generally okey. I have noticed that she doesn't pull that well up hills, although can do it comfortably at 50mph or pushes to do it at 60mph. The turbo is ok with no sign of free play or any sign of oil in the filter.

I'm not sure whether I should spend £100 on a new Rad and hope that's the problem or spend the cash to replace the HG and get the head skimmed as a preventative measure.
Has anyone experienced these symptoms.?! I'm at a total loss :( Any advice would be much appreciated and suggested order.
 
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Ditto - no major coolant loss but new rad sorted it. As soon as I described what you did to my mechanic, he knew straight away. No probs since
 
is it an orig 300tdi defender or a disco dropped in?

my first port of call is to see if it's really overheating. i use a ir gun for this, there about a tenner from eblag.
 
Could be an internal baffle in the rad has moved, temporarily blocking flow. If your guage is reading correctly, then you are running a bit warm. A new rad will make a big difference, they don't last forever. You may be able to get it recored, which usually saves a bit of money.
 
What the best way to check if the radiator is buggered.?! All the fins look clear and I've thoroughly back flushed and the water ran clear and freely.

I did all that with mine. All looked fine from the outside. But something had gone inside. Once a new rad was fitter the temp says the same no matter how hard it's worked.
 
If it's the original rad then some fins are bound to be missing and some water ways blocked and the symptoms you have is what happens.All is ok until motor is working hard or it's a warm day,however the difference in temp on the standard gauge between the white and going in the red is only a few degrees,its not very accurate which is why I recommend fitting a gauge that reads in numbers.
 
what brand did people go for? plastic or metal, etc? i see you can get britpart stuff for 70quid or so
 
Plastic, Britpart. Seems OK so far. It has two smaller connections at the top, whereas I only needed one for the 2.5na. Blocked one off with a bit of hose. Runs much, much cooler.
 
Take your rad off and then fill it with genuine coke, then slosh it around.

Leave it for an hour or so an then amaze yourself by the amount of crap and gunge that comes out of it. :)

After a good flushing, Stick it all back together again and see how it goes ... You might not need to spend silly money for nothing ;) ;)
 
Take your rad off and then fill it with genuine coke, then slosh it around.

Leave it for an hour or so an then amaze yourself by the amount of crap and gunge that comes out of it. :)

After a good flushing, Stick it all back together again and see how it goes ... You might not need to spend silly money for nothing ;) ;)

As in Coke a Cola.?! Good idea, definaty worth a try to make a cost effective flushing agent. :)
 
is it an orig 300tdi defender or a disco dropped in?

my first port of call is to see if it's really overheating. i use a ir gun for this, there about a tenner from eblag.

It's the original lump Jon. Also I have one of those inferred gun, unfortunately I've never had it with me when the gauge indicates an overheating issue. On other occasions when I've tested it, it reads between 70-85.

I'm going to try Herbs suggestion first, if this fails I'm going to pick up a new radiator. Is it more expensive to hamy original one recored.?!
 
It's the original lump Jon. Also I have one of those inferred gun, unfortunately I've never had it with me when the gauge indicates an overheating issue. On other occasions when I've tested it, it reads between 70-85.

I'm going to try Herbs suggestion first, if this fails I'm going to pick up a new radiator. Is it more expensive to hamy original one recored.?!

last time i looked it was.. who knows now :)
 
It's the original lump Jon. Also I have one of those inferred gun, unfortunately I've never had it with me when the gauge indicates an overheating issue. On other occasions when I've tested it, it reads between 70-85.

I'm going to try Herbs suggestion first, if this fails I'm going to pick up a new radiator. Is it more expensive to hamy original one recored.?!

if you get really stuck give me a shout. I have a spare rad kicking about thats tidy
 
I bought a new rad from Paddocks £79. The old rad I took out which was the original seems much more heavy duty and solid. I don't know how long the Paddocks one will last but I kept the old one to get it recored. The old one is 25 years old, I don't think the new one will last that long although in theory its not a moving part, it just sits there. If I was doing it again I think I would go the recored route.
 
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