fett - i have just took the top / bottom hoses off and clean out (not much dirty stuff) and tried the old rolled up newspaper to see if fan stops and does not so i think that rules that out. however i noticed something the water pump. on the left hand side there is a small hole (if looking at pump installed on car) and water is coming out through there which i have never seen before. i checked the original water pump i had on the rangey before replacing it and it was the same. so why is there now water coming out of there now? i ran it for like 10 mins it warm to halfway and did not move. i put air con on full blast but the fans did not spin behind the grill - apparently my ac needs gasing anyway - so not sure if that means anything. i also put my hand on the top of the rhs of the radiator (between rad and viscous fan) and it was hot but everywhere else i could reach was cold - is this correct or what does it mean? as you can tell my engine understanding is pretty pants!!!
Overheating Issue? & Cutting Out?
- Thread starter flanders7
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fett
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Ok the hole on the water pump is there so that when the seal starts leaking it comes out there and not onto the bearing of the pump , this means that although the pump will need replacing the bearing will not fail so quickly.
If your lucky its your pump, it needs replacing anyway if its leaking so do that first.
The other optiong is headgasket/porous block whch could be pressursing the cooling system which as a by product could also be forcing water out of the water pump hole.
the reason I think it is porous block rather than headgasket is that your headgaskets are quite new and should not have gone again already unless the person who did them is a monkey mechanic.
If thay havent gone again then it could be the dreaded porous block as you could replace headgaskets all day and it will never fix the slipped liner/porous block problem which I gather the 4.6's are worst for.
cheap Checks you can do are to take the stat out and see if it works ok with boiling water, or leave it out and see how its running without it. It seems your rad flow is ok if you have back flushes it ok and had a good flow. next chepest would be the water pump to swap and its leaking anyway.
Test wise you could get a garage to do a sniff test for hydrocarbons in the coolant but people have been saying on here they are non conclusive. Do you have much pressure left in the cooling system after it stands over night? that can indicate the bigger problems but mine has a little and has been good for a year even when worked hard off road in the heat.
Have you bled the system well after your drain and flushing, it can be hard to get all the air out , epecially with your vapouriser added to the system. You fill it and then run it with the cap off untill its up to temp and pusing the water out, then put cap on and let it cool and top up after.
Final bodge job before spending the big bucks would be to put some k-seal or ironite in andhope it works , if not it may be costly.
I hope this helps you a bit ,it not a good thing for man to have a broken v8!
If your lucky its your pump, it needs replacing anyway if its leaking so do that first.
The other optiong is headgasket/porous block whch could be pressursing the cooling system which as a by product could also be forcing water out of the water pump hole.
the reason I think it is porous block rather than headgasket is that your headgaskets are quite new and should not have gone again already unless the person who did them is a monkey mechanic.
If thay havent gone again then it could be the dreaded porous block as you could replace headgaskets all day and it will never fix the slipped liner/porous block problem which I gather the 4.6's are worst for.
cheap Checks you can do are to take the stat out and see if it works ok with boiling water, or leave it out and see how its running without it. It seems your rad flow is ok if you have back flushes it ok and had a good flow. next chepest would be the water pump to swap and its leaking anyway.
Test wise you could get a garage to do a sniff test for hydrocarbons in the coolant but people have been saying on here they are non conclusive. Do you have much pressure left in the cooling system after it stands over night? that can indicate the bigger problems but mine has a little and has been good for a year even when worked hard off road in the heat.
Have you bled the system well after your drain and flushing, it can be hard to get all the air out , epecially with your vapouriser added to the system. You fill it and then run it with the cap off untill its up to temp and pusing the water out, then put cap on and let it cool and top up after.
Final bodge job before spending the big bucks would be to put some k-seal or ironite in andhope it works , if not it may be costly.
I hope this helps you a bit ,it not a good thing for man to have a broken v8!
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j the range
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i agree with all fett said, but you cant run them without a stat. dont know if this will help you, when mine went it was pumping water out with the lid off..
fett
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ooo p38 must be differnt from classics as I am sure peeps on here have been saying they have run those without the stat in , why wont the p38 run without the stat?
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j the range
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the stat is in a supid plastic holder, fits on the bottom of the rad. the most stupid thing you have ever seen..
Irishrover
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Yet another LPG conversion with overheating problems..will it ever end ?????
Glad I'm running on good old petrol !!!
Glad I'm running on good old petrol !!!
WSLR
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Lol - Petrol is the only way.
The Thermostat can't be removed because the fuelling gets affected if the ECU can't get up to its running temperature target of 96C. If you think that's bad, you should see the M62 4.4 V8 in the L322.
So, Flanders, are you saying the hole is leaking coolant out on the new(ish) Island4x4 part? The sniff test isn't very accurate. I've got a Sealey one which isn't very good at doing what it says on the tin. I do hear it is better with diesel vehicles. A pressure tester on the cooling system would be my way forward. Laser do a kit for Land Rover for about £60 but maybe you could ask around for one. Put 1.4 bar of pressure in and see how fast the gauge drops. Then check around for external leaks. If the pressure drops and you can't find a leak, then it is internal. You can't 100% test it because you can't see inside the engine.
If the coolant pump is leaking through the eye, it is going to need replacing. I expect (in reality) you need a new radiator and pump at the minimum. Don't mess about with Britpart stuff here. Get a good one which is at least OEM spec. A Rover V8 is dead in the water without a cooling system.
The Thermostat can't be removed because the fuelling gets affected if the ECU can't get up to its running temperature target of 96C. If you think that's bad, you should see the M62 4.4 V8 in the L322.
So, Flanders, are you saying the hole is leaking coolant out on the new(ish) Island4x4 part? The sniff test isn't very accurate. I've got a Sealey one which isn't very good at doing what it says on the tin. I do hear it is better with diesel vehicles. A pressure tester on the cooling system would be my way forward. Laser do a kit for Land Rover for about £60 but maybe you could ask around for one. Put 1.4 bar of pressure in and see how fast the gauge drops. Then check around for external leaks. If the pressure drops and you can't find a leak, then it is internal. You can't 100% test it because you can't see inside the engine.
If the coolant pump is leaking through the eye, it is going to need replacing. I expect (in reality) you need a new radiator and pump at the minimum. Don't mess about with Britpart stuff here. Get a good one which is at least OEM spec. A Rover V8 is dead in the water without a cooling system.
ramon.alban
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What follows may apply only to earler RV8 systems, but whatever ever the actual cause of RV8 overheating, these ideas may help?
# Crud in the cooling system - flush and reverse flush the three main system elements, separately - Block, Heater matrix and Radiator - using domestic water pressure and a garden hose. Check out the below Air Lock link.
# Failed thermostat - remove and check stat function in a pan of boiling water and a thermometer..
# Failed Viscous fan coupling - With engine v. hot and idling the Viscous must lock up and speed up with a roar of fast moving air until the radiator cools a little and the fan speed stabilises. When idling and v. hot, if you can stall the fan with a rolled up newspaper the Viscous has croaked. Read this link for an understanding of how it works and fails
Rover SD1 Efi Viscous Fan Coupling
# Air locks - cause unstable engine temperature, steam inside the system and overheating. There are many techniques for eliminating these, search the internet or adapt the process for an earlier RV8 found here.
Rover SD1 Tips 'n Tricks - #2 - V8 Coolant Fill without Airlocks
# Failed head gasket - look for continuous stream of bubbles in expansion tank, if fitted, contamination of coolant, mayonnaise in the upper accessible areas, such as oil filler cap - and/or perform compression test on all cylinder and compare the results. For the expected approx pressure multiply the engine compression ratio by 15 psi. - so for a CR of 10:1 (say) expect something like 150 psi. The actual number is not critical, as it depends upon general engine condition and age, BUT, All 8 pots should be similar, and any adjacent pair clearly too low, spells trouble.
Alternatively have a garage perform a leak-down test to check the integrity of the combustion chambers. There are several good techniques, Google for "compression testing" and "leakdown testing" to see hundreds of references/processes.
# Block porosity/other Coolant Escapage symptoms - pressure test the cooling system in situ - Google for ideas - or just get a yellow pages radiator repair company to run the test for you. Its a common/inexpensive test process.
# When you think you have fixed the problem(s) (often more than one) run the engine for a short while, ( a day or two, or a few miles) filled with just plain water to check system integrity, correct operation and no leaks, before draining/refilling with proper coolant at the recommended mix. This will flush out any loose debris still lurking within, and avoids the messy loss of costly coolant, without having to catch any stuff in a spillage tray during testing and eliminating probs.
# Crud in the cooling system - flush and reverse flush the three main system elements, separately - Block, Heater matrix and Radiator - using domestic water pressure and a garden hose. Check out the below Air Lock link.
# Failed thermostat - remove and check stat function in a pan of boiling water and a thermometer..
# Failed Viscous fan coupling - With engine v. hot and idling the Viscous must lock up and speed up with a roar of fast moving air until the radiator cools a little and the fan speed stabilises. When idling and v. hot, if you can stall the fan with a rolled up newspaper the Viscous has croaked. Read this link for an understanding of how it works and fails
Rover SD1 Efi Viscous Fan Coupling
# Air locks - cause unstable engine temperature, steam inside the system and overheating. There are many techniques for eliminating these, search the internet or adapt the process for an earlier RV8 found here.
Rover SD1 Tips 'n Tricks - #2 - V8 Coolant Fill without Airlocks
# Failed head gasket - look for continuous stream of bubbles in expansion tank, if fitted, contamination of coolant, mayonnaise in the upper accessible areas, such as oil filler cap - and/or perform compression test on all cylinder and compare the results. For the expected approx pressure multiply the engine compression ratio by 15 psi. - so for a CR of 10:1 (say) expect something like 150 psi. The actual number is not critical, as it depends upon general engine condition and age, BUT, All 8 pots should be similar, and any adjacent pair clearly too low, spells trouble.
Alternatively have a garage perform a leak-down test to check the integrity of the combustion chambers. There are several good techniques, Google for "compression testing" and "leakdown testing" to see hundreds of references/processes.
# Block porosity/other Coolant Escapage symptoms - pressure test the cooling system in situ - Google for ideas - or just get a yellow pages radiator repair company to run the test for you. Its a common/inexpensive test process.
# When you think you have fixed the problem(s) (often more than one) run the engine for a short while, ( a day or two, or a few miles) filled with just plain water to check system integrity, correct operation and no leaks, before draining/refilling with proper coolant at the recommended mix. This will flush out any loose debris still lurking within, and avoids the messy loss of costly coolant, without having to catch any stuff in a spillage tray during testing and eliminating probs.
Last edited:
fett
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thanks everyone for all your help. i will be contacting a local specialist garage tomorrow but it cut out again yesterday while idling in the garden so i dread starting it again! so will need the garage to come and get it. i do have original water pump which a took off previously (thought a squeaking was being caused by the bearing but when replaced it was no change and in the end the garage found out what it was so that means the pump was ok so i could just get the garage to fit that with just a new gasket). will keep you all posted but if it is a porous head what is a typical price? (i really dont want to sell my beloved car and plus what it is now worth even in a fixed state is cheaper than shelling out on a new car!!!)
j the range
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if you find you need a head send me a pm. where are you sending your car?
fett
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Stuart can do a you a complete engine rebuild to sort it , it wont be cheap but it might be cheaper and certianly better than most places.
Well guys the dream is finally over!!! over much thinking and calculator tapping i have had to put the old girl up for sale (not the wife!) :doh:
Although the head gasket had been done before i got it, it had not been done very well so it was confirmed the head gasket has gone but also the the bottom crank shaft had excessive wear and markings (lots of areas of gold / worn of silver and groove marks) so i just could not afford to pay the close to £3000 bill for a reconditioned engine head gasket and i was going to have the linners done to so that it was bullett proof but i just can justify it.
I have put it on a famous auction website last night (very reluctantly) and just see how it goes. I will be selling the add on bits in individual auctions (200mile old 20" stormer alloys with tyres, dog guard, seat covers, boot lining, toe bar plus other parts - just need to list them).
if interested the auction number is 320564988151.
I would like to thank all the people on this forum for their help and advice - totally priceless!
hopefully my next car is better.... wont be as pleasurable as the Range Rover though!
Although the head gasket had been done before i got it, it had not been done very well so it was confirmed the head gasket has gone but also the the bottom crank shaft had excessive wear and markings (lots of areas of gold / worn of silver and groove marks) so i just could not afford to pay the close to £3000 bill for a reconditioned engine head gasket and i was going to have the linners done to so that it was bullett proof but i just can justify it.
I have put it on a famous auction website last night (very reluctantly) and just see how it goes. I will be selling the add on bits in individual auctions (200mile old 20" stormer alloys with tyres, dog guard, seat covers, boot lining, toe bar plus other parts - just need to list them).
if interested the auction number is 320564988151.
I would like to thank all the people on this forum for their help and advice - totally priceless!
hopefully my next car is better.... wont be as pleasurable as the Range Rover though!
