tonylandy123
Member
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- 30
Bet your pulling head off it with that mutch water loss not a bad job just make sure heads pressure tested and scimed before you put it back on and a 3 hole head gasket
Overheating 300TDI
- Thread starter Ziva
- Start date
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You need to use the correct coolant or start saving up for the expensive cylinder head in the future. Water rots the alloy head so be warned. Here is the correct stuff to use, its known as OAT coolant.... See recommended LAND ROVER views on what to use. This will stop the rot and is fairly cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203848963719
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203848963719
Td5 is the red coolant ie OATs, 300 is the old blue stuff.
Dr Strangeglove
Well-Known Member
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- Lancashire
As far as I am aware the 300tdi uses the blue coolant. Ethylene glycol I think it is. Its what I used in my 300tdi and I would rather have used the OAT due to it having a 4 year life versus the 2 year life of blue. Apparently the OAT type can ruin seals in the 300tdi - but please check for yourself to put your mind at ease.
Dear All,
I have some news, bad and good, let me explain what we have done:
- changed thermostat
- changed waterpump and gasket
- changed the Y tubing
- changed the temperature sensor
- changed the radiator
After that the engine temperature was still shutting in the red zone after 5-10m drive. being a bit devastated, I decided to remove the thermostat (the new one) and it ran without overheating for a couple of days (2 drives of 15-20minutes)
Today, we took it for a drive with a trailer on tow to move some logs (3.5T trailer) and 5 minutes later, the temperature shut up again.
To be honest, I still do not see gaz coming out through the expansion tank, no mayonnaise in the oil no water neither, all levels good. and no water coming out of the expansion tanks, just some gaz when opening the cap.
I begin to question whether the engine is hot or not, to be sure we hard wired a cable from the Temp sensor (the new one) to the gauge inside (new cable) but the result is the same.
Do you have some ideas?
Thanks
I have some news, bad and good, let me explain what we have done:
- changed thermostat
- changed waterpump and gasket
- changed the Y tubing
- changed the temperature sensor
- changed the radiator
After that the engine temperature was still shutting in the red zone after 5-10m drive. being a bit devastated, I decided to remove the thermostat (the new one) and it ran without overheating for a couple of days (2 drives of 15-20minutes)
Today, we took it for a drive with a trailer on tow to move some logs (3.5T trailer) and 5 minutes later, the temperature shut up again.
To be honest, I still do not see gaz coming out through the expansion tank, no mayonnaise in the oil no water neither, all levels good. and no water coming out of the expansion tanks, just some gaz when opening the cap.
I begin to question whether the engine is hot or not, to be sure we hard wired a cable from the Temp sensor (the new one) to the gauge inside (new cable) but the result is the same.
Do you have some ideas?
Thanks
tonylandy123
Member
- Posts
- 30
Head gasket blown in to water side
Thanks, and how can I be sure it is that? (just trying to understand) I presume the coolant level will decrease?
tonylandy123
Member
- Posts
- 30
Yes will loose coolant and temp will increase very quickly on gage
tonylandy123
Member
- Posts
- 30
Yes out the top of expansion tank if when it's getting hot on gage have you tried taking top off slowly when see if its got pressure if it has them decently head gasket
yes when I stopped and removed, with caution, the cap of the expansion tank, there was quite a lot of pressure.
tonylandy123
Member
- Posts
- 30
Head gasket as gone pull head get head pressure tested and scimed get a 3 hole head gasket
Thanks for the heads up, I am a bit stressed to do this, but I think I will need to do it and then also change the cam belt at the same time.
Any good tutorial or website on how to do it?
Thanks,
tonylandy123
Member
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- 30
It's actually not that bad I think there's a video on YouTube I you'd to do it for a living so it's easy for me to say but it's pretty strategic forward you will need a tork rench and a dile gage every thing else is just sockets and spaners and a set of feeler gages
tonylandy123
Member
- Posts
- 30
Dile gage is for the head bolts and can't actually say how long for an amateur but should have it done in a day can be done in a couple of hours if you no what your doing but just take your time don't try rushing and a you will get there
If you are losing fluids from the coolant side i suggest its a problem like i had on my TD5 Defender. The pressure in the header tank comes from the pistons if the head gasket has gone or if you have a holed head between the top of one of the bores and a water gallery in the head. Mine had a hole in the alloy head caused by previous owners using just tap water and no OAT orange coolant in the radiator. I added pictures of my issue previously to show the hole in the head. There were two holes and it caused the head gasket to fail allowing the pressure from compression to get into the engine water jacket which was then blown into the hear tank. When this occurs it then discharges the fluid out of the header tank breather in a mist and at worst as a hissing torrent when really hot etc.
I bought a new AMC head that was made in Spain and is said to be a much better quality than the original LR one. Cost me £1300 though plus fitting costs.
It cured my problem and it made the motor run much better as i guess all the new valves and compression was back to as new.
I bought a new AMC head that was made in Spain and is said to be a much better quality than the original LR one. Cost me £1300 though plus fitting costs.
It cured my problem and it made the motor run much better as i guess all the new valves and compression was back to as new.
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tonylandy123
Member
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- 30
And did you ever get them presser tested and did the ones you done get hot as when they get hot they deform done 100s in my time and never had one come back for head gasket again
