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Genuine pump here for you in case you can't find one. Nice a cheap aswell. Water Pump Assembly - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Overheat - Am I missing something
- Thread starter timh1970
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
This is the one that I had on mine that was, in part, causing the overheat Water Pump Assembly - OEM at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
If you look at the picture and compare it to the genuine one Range Rover 2 Water Pumps at www.rimmerbros.co.uk you can clearly see that the genuine one has more vanes.
That's another thing I have noticed about getting parts for the P38; the number of companies that call aftermarket parts "OEM". They really need to understand what OEM means before they randomly put it on aftermarket parts.
I have come to the conclusion that it is not the cars that are crap, it is the aftermarket supply chain. With hindsight I would much rather have paid for genuine parts than lost all those man hours and had all that stress.
Just realised that there is a company calling themselves OEM. They truly want shooting for doing that. If I had enough spare cash I would sue them for misrepresenting the 5H!T that they make as original equipment but unfortunately I need all the cash that I can get my hands on in order to buy...erm... original equipment; Ahh, the irony!
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Just have a look at parts from BMW possibly a lot cheaper than rip off Land rover.
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The pump fitted to my diesel has a metal impeller of the same style that you say is no good. I have no problems at all with my car overheating, think you are clutching at straws with that one. I also have an after market engine oil cooler fitted no problems at all.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
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O dear I hope its not silver v reg
My old one
My old one
Do you tow up steep hills with it? It only showed up on mine when I towed.
The aftermarket pump made the most difference; on average roads at average speeds it now runs at 91 - 93 degrees and even going over the M65 (which has some steep hills on it) it only gets up to 98. It's definitely the pump. With a genuine pump on it is around 3 - 4 degrees lower than it was.
The oil cooler did not make a massive difference but the fact that I could slide the fins about did not fill me with confidence as the conductivity would be far from satisfactory.
No, that must be a twin; this one is a green R reg that drones like a biplane when idling.
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Was your version of overheating a measured value or did it actually overheat with the needle over to the right and the red lamp on.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
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No, it was a measured value I never let it get past 106 as I didn't want to cause any more damage than absolutely necessary.
My gauge goes up to the middle at 90 degrees and stays there until it reaches 105; then if it carries on it shoots up, but I never let it get past 106 because at much more it can start damaging other components.
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So the engine was within it's normal operating temp then and you decided to intervene. The system is designed to run with up to 15 psi pressurisation it will normally run at around 5 to 7 psi. Each pound of pressure increases the boiling point by 2 degrees F. So at 7 psi pressure the coolant will not create vapour until 226 degrees. I don't tow things but if i did i would expect the engine temp to be elevated under some conditions.
I don't have a pt chart for an antifreeze mix but 226f is only 107c so I was only giving it 1c degree of headroom by only allowing it to get to 106c.
The thing is though that with the aftermarket pump on my car runs under normal conditions at between 96c and 99c which only allows 8c to 11c degrees of headroom (which is not much for heavy load situations). With a genuine pump on my car runs at 91 to 94 which gives me 13c to 16c before the danger point is reached. It may not seem much but it is up to an extra 38 percent.
Do you have a genuine radiator in yours? If the rad is anything like the rest of the aftermarket junk then I guess a genuine one will improve the circulation and cooling which may compensate a little for the aftermarket pump. (I'll find out if it does on mine when I can afford 340 quid for a proper rad)
The thing is though that with the aftermarket pump on my car runs under normal conditions at between 96c and 99c which only allows 8c to 11c degrees of headroom (which is not much for heavy load situations). With a genuine pump on my car runs at 91 to 94 which gives me 13c to 16c before the danger point is reached. It may not seem much but it is up to an extra 38 percent.
Do you have a genuine radiator in yours? If the rad is anything like the rest of the aftermarket junk then I guess a genuine one will improve the circulation and cooling which may compensate a little for the aftermarket pump. (I'll find out if it does on mine when I can afford 340 quid for a proper rad)
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5 to 7 psi is normal running it will rise when the engine is under load, think you are getting exited about not a lot to be honest. You cannot expect the temp to stay at nominal values when you are towing a bloody great tin tent around.The reason nominal heat range gauges were introduced was to stop Joe public getting exited if the temp gauge moved around a bit. Does your rad get hot all over?
On my saab 9000 it moves around a bit as it is not a nominal temp gauge but it is in no danger of going into the red or getting anywhere near 106 degrees and it is a 1994 automatic that will pull the tent around for fun.
It does not matter what car it is it should never get anywhere near boiling point, it shouldn't go much above 95 to be honest and it should not be much above 80 when it leaves the rad.
It is not overheating now that I have changed the pump and the thermostat for genuine ones. I am only replacing the rad when I have some cash to give the engine a bit of extra headroom and because I am now convinced that all aftermarket parts for range rovers are total junk. (having said that I got a brand new condenser for 47quid off ebay that was ok once I had bent it in place so that it would fit)
It does not matter what car it is it should never get anywhere near boiling point, it shouldn't go much above 95 to be honest and it should not be much above 80 when it leaves the rad.
It is not overheating now that I have changed the pump and the thermostat for genuine ones. I am only replacing the rad when I have some cash to give the engine a bit of extra headroom and because I am now convinced that all aftermarket parts for range rovers are total junk. (having said that I got a brand new condenser for 47quid off ebay that was ok once I had bent it in place so that it would fit)
Datatek
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Think you are a bit behind the times, engines run at higher temperatures these days, 95C is normal, up to 105C on the L322 I believe, helps emissions.
Probably am, but so is the 1997 P38. The newer vehicles have different antifreeze that has a different boiling point, even when mixed with water. If the p38 gets to more than 107 (105 if you don't count the overhead) then it has overheated. The gauge goes into the red at 107
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The system is designed to sustain pressures of up to 15 psi at which point it will discharge coolant. That gives a boiling point of 242 F or 116.6 C even with just water in the system. At 22 psi the cap is designed to release all pressure to protect components. If that stage is ever reached you have a major problem. It is important not to have any seeping leaks or airlocks they would produce elevated temperatures and system pressures. After market radiators without the top baffle are a major cause of cooling problems on the P38 diesel, and will give the symptoms you complain of. If you drain and flush your system you can refill with OAT coolant without penalty.
StuckAgainSteve
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BMW used to (internally) charge Rover more for BMW parts than they charged themselves - even during manufacture - not just at the dealers.
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Land rover are not only expensive on BMW stuff their general pricing for parts is way over the top in many instances. (ANR4709) L/H £37.34 for a 12" length of brake pipe with two tube nuts on maybe a little over the top but. (ANR4710) R/H at £72.47 for the same length of pipe with the same tube nuts bent in the opposite hand is taking the **** in a far reaching manner.
