Opinion requested from the experts here

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Good start, at least we know the nature of the beast. At 22 years old, any mild steel structure is likely to be showing signs of deterioration.
With a Land Rover, the condition of the body is of no importance at all, it is the condition of the chassis and bulkhead that determines the value of the vehicle, and to a lesser extent the condition of the engine and transmission.

When you say " sitting at the shop", do you mean you have not collected the vehicle after purchase?
Meaning that they were totaling up what it would cost for the other repairs I wanted and they sent me the quote Friday, awaiting my response on what I wanted to do next. Sounds like I won't be doing a crossmember.
 
Meaning that they were totaling up what it would cost for the other repairs I wanted and they sent me the quote Friday, awaiting my response on what I wanted to do next. Sounds like I won't be doing a crossmember.

Okay, try and post some pics of the rusty bits when you have collected it.

There is no reason you shouldn't do the crossmember, but as James says, it shouldn't cost anything like that.

It is usual to weld on the crossmember and extensions with the body in place, so the holes in the brackets on top of the new crossmember line up on the tub. You should be able to get a crossmember and steel for a hundred quid, and maybe another couple of hundred for welding and re-coating. That will hold it for a while, but if there is rust in the rest of the chassis, you will need to repair that in due course.
 
Meaning that they were totaling up what it would cost for the other repairs I wanted and they sent me the quote Friday, awaiting my response on what I wanted to do next. Sounds like I won't be doing a crossmember.

Why not ask a local forum member who can weld to come and fit it for you, easy days work and a lot cheaper than Mansfields wanted.
 
Why not ask a local forum member who can weld to come and fit it for you, easy days work and a lot cheaper than Mansfields wanted.
Never really thought of that! I think that may be a nice solution, as well. I am going to follow up on some of these recommendations offered in this thread. Just to get an idea of what I should be expecting for this kind of work. I've just delved into more of the forum and I'm getting unnerved by the thought of missing some corrosion somewhere in the chassis, so I'm also asking for chassis change quotes as well.
 
Okay, try and post some pics of the rusty bits when you have collected it.

There is no reason you shouldn't do the crossmember, but as James says, it shouldn't cost anything like that.

It is usual to weld on the crossmember and extensions with the body in place, so the holes in the brackets on top of the new crossmember line up on the tub. You should be able to get a crossmember and steel for a hundred quid, and maybe another couple of hundred for welding and re-coating. That will hold it for a while, but if there is rust in the rest of the chassis, you will need to repair that in due course.
I'll get some pics up when I can. I'll prob have to put it on a rack get some good enough to elicit help.
 
£6k could get yer a low miles last edition Freelander 1 in mint condition. It would also get yer an early Freelander 2. Just saying...
 
I had a conversation with my local Indy specialist a couple of weeks ago with regards to my D2 chassis and his “quote” was that I “wouldn’t get much change from £5k” all in however he also said that he won’t be just replacing the chassis, that would include all new break and fuel lines etc, all bushes replaced and any other work needed as part of the job. He said that he won’t cut corners and that if he is going to do it then it will be done properly.

I didn’t discuss time scales but that would be a galvanised chassis.
 
I had a conversation with my local Indy specialist a couple of weeks ago with regards to my D2 chassis and his “quote” was that I “wouldn’t get much change from £5k” all in however he also said that he won’t be just replacing the chassis, that would include all new break and fuel lines etc, all bushes replaced and any other work needed as part of the job. He said that he won’t cut corners and that if he is going to do it then it will be done properly.

I didn’t discuss time scales but that would be a galvanised chassis.
Who’s your guy?
 
Anyone ever had any luck getting Foley’s to reply to emails? This is my second time in 3 months, and it’s “crickets”. They so well off that they don’t have to follow up warm leads for legitimate business?
It says on their site to email them!
 
I see two ways of choosing a chassis change specialist. One is to hope that someone on here has direct experience of having one done well at a sensible price. The other is to speak to either Alastair or Duncan at Richards Chassis (who will almost certainly be making your new chassis) and asking them for the names of the people who buy most from them for their re-chassis businesses.

As Spot 1 says, anyone good will be replacing brake hoses, bushes, shock absorbers etc.

https://www.richardschassis.co.uk/ (I believe that they're now the only people making replacement chassis - I have no connection other than currently buying a third one from them).
 
A mate at work got a quote from a couple of well known Land Rover dealers down south for a galv chassis and bulkhead for his 110 and they both wanted around 8-9k but that included labour and miscellaneous parts.

£1950 is a lot for a rear x-member - my local garage were around £400 plus parts.
 
I think they subcontract out, which is the reason for the high price.

My first thought, that I dont think has been suggested already, is to find out who the subby is and get a quote from them. You may find its a name thats already been recommended on here. You may also find that your current guy has whacked on a hefty profit margin for himself.
 
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