Ongoing power cutting out problem
- Thread starter accywingy
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ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Latest update on this and it aint looking good
First 100 miles on the way up with no troubles, then it was back with a vengeance!
Same thing as always, the only visible symptom is the erratic temp gauge, but this time i've got a boost gauge on too for chance it's overboosting. The boost gauge drops as the temp gauge goes up, and with a new MAP sensor on i'm happy that the ECU is getting the same signals I am. On a happy note this means I can stick my clock back in cos i'm missing it
Anyway, the temp did seem to act a but different on this trip, it did seem to allow itself to get above the normal 'problem temp' when under load without cutting out (new thermostat fitted last week) so again i'm happy that all is well there. I was thinking it may be overheating so will be giving everything a good flush out to make sure i'm getting good airflow.
So whilst away, i've played about and looked around for the same old things, pressurised hoses, chaffed wires (new 13 pin tow socket fitted last month so that's out of the question too andlover) Nothing unusual at all.
The journey home today however was different. We for about 5 miles where it was playing up by the minute, and I was pulling my hair out! Mrs Nut even got a short video of the gauge jumping
During annoying bit of the trip another annoying little thing was happening.. The N/S rear mudflap has taket to curling up on to the tyre because it's split and making a fooking annoying noise! Anyway I lost the plot, pulled into the services and whipped it off with me knife
So the big question is, how pressurised should the coolant system be at tickover versus at revs???
Going back to Ratty's comment about the stat opening at 1500 rpm, would this make a difference? I'm begging to think this is terminal HGF but not convinced due to the lack of mixed fluids.
Apologies for the long winded post, had ****e internet for a week and my fingers won't stop
I hate to say it Accy but I have a nasty suspicion that your landy may be suffering from HG failure.
You should just about be able to squeeze the hose so that two opposing sides can touch each other. If it's like squeezing a bicycle tyre then it's not looking good.
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Hhhmmm also possible and more expensive too..
It's the 15J engine which I thought where the better ones regarding heads
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Hhhmmm also possible and more expensive too..
It's the 15J engine which I thought where the better ones regarding heads
My head was cracked on the inlet side meaning it only pressurised the coolant system when the turbo spooled up. Because of this it didn't show up on a sniff test or compression test (using glow plug ports on the 4 cylinders that have em) and also didn't show on the crack test of the head once it was off until it was heated right up.
From a logical point of view and to make sure your not missing anything-
1) check the temp sender resistance as per workshop manual
2) worth a look to see if temp sender is direct to gauge or through ecu- some are.
If it tests out okay and is direct to gauge we can then rely that it is telling the truth.
It concerns me the pressurised hose as it shouldn't be rock hard- you could verify temp if you had a non contact thermometer.
It is possible you have a heat related crack in head, but it is better to exhaust all possibilities before pulling it apart.
1) check the temp sender resistance as per workshop manual
2) worth a look to see if temp sender is direct to gauge or through ecu- some are.
If it tests out okay and is direct to gauge we can then rely that it is telling the truth.
It concerns me the pressurised hose as it shouldn't be rock hard- you could verify temp if you had a non contact thermometer.
It is possible you have a heat related crack in head, but it is better to exhaust all possibilities before pulling it apart.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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have you got hold of a nanocom or hawkeye yet?
The offer still stands on mine if you want to borrow it. In instrument mode it'll show boost pressure, coolant temp, engine revs and battery voltage. The problem with the temp gauge on your dash is that it won't move at all between 82 and 95 degs (what the engine considers to be normal operating temp). If your temp gauge is starting to rise above normal there is a good chance that your temp is getting near the 100 deg mark.
The offer still stands on mine if you want to borrow it. In instrument mode it'll show boost pressure, coolant temp, engine revs and battery voltage. The problem with the temp gauge on your dash is that it won't move at all between 82 and 95 degs (what the engine considers to be normal operating temp). If your temp gauge is starting to rise above normal there is a good chance that your temp is getting near the 100 deg mark.
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I'm really beginning to think it's the head Roy being the lectrically talented one had is super meter on the temp sender a month or so ago and seemed to think everything added up. I'm thinking that the misfire when it's ticking over could all be related to a cracked head too. Seriously if I didn't love the beast she would be on fire by now
The Indy that I use is a cracking mechanic wit LR background so I will have a chat with him on Tuesday and see what he thinks too..
Cheers for the thoughts guys!!
Roy being the lectrically talented one had is super meter on the temp sender a month or so ago and seemed to think everything added up. I'm thinking that the misfire when it's ticking over could all be related to a cracked head too. Seriously if I didn't love the beast she would be on fire by now The Indy that I use is a cracking mechanic wit LR background so I will have a chat with him on Tuesday and see what he thinks too..
Cheers for the thoughts guys!!
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I've not got one yet but me and Roy are gonna share at a nanocom Evo I think. It can only be useful and we can add it to the LZ Rescue list too
(I need to give you my number too whilst I remember)I may take you up on the offer though if I don't get one ordered in the next few weeks. A new Cylinder head may well hinder my funds
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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I've not got one yet but me and Roy are gonna share at a nanocom Evo I think. It can only be useful and we can add it to the LZ Rescue list too
I may take you up on the offer though if I don't get one ordered in the next few weeks. A new Cylinder head may well hinder my funds
It might be worth you keeping your eyes open for a good 'known' secondhand head in the mean time. I picked mine up dirt cheap (I think it was around £250-£300 complete with injectors). Sods law says that if you need a head quickly there won't be any cheap ones about.
Something else you could try is to loosen the bleed screw on the top hose and let the engine tick over. If you keep watching it closely you may spot a single air bubble emerge about once every 30-60 secs. It was the only visible sign of HG failure on mine and that one air bubble evry 30-60 secs or so was the hydrocarbons that should have shown up on the sniff test (Because it is such a small amount it didn't show up).
