One for the anaoraks - swivel pin thrust washers

zeaphod · Oct 17, 2018

This might be useful to someone, thought it was worth passing on. I noticed a tiny bit of top/bottom play in my steering when prepping for the MoT recently. Not enough to need replacing all the hub steering components, which are only a few years old. I thought I would replace the thrust washers - but the new ones (blue bag) were quite a bit thinner than the old ones. I doubt you would notice by eye, but they were almost 0.5mm thinner, which makes quite a bit of difference when setting the preload. I re-used the old ones, which looked perfect, and just reduced the amount of shimming.

benpalmer · Oct 17, 2018

Interesting, I've just done this and didn't have an issue with preload. They came as part of a rebuild kit, didn't even cross my mind to check thickness!

jamesmartin · Oct 17, 2018

benpalmer said:
Interesting, I've just done this and didn't have an issue with preload. They came as part of a rebuild kit, didn't even cross my mind to check thickness!

considering the pin has numerous shims can you can add many more washer thickness is irrelevant unless its paper thin

zeaphod · Oct 17, 2018

My point really is if you used a certain amount of shims in the past, it may not be correct with a new kit as the thrust washer may be a different thickness. I think quite a few people don't have/don't use a gauge to measure preload.

mick 1986 · Oct 17, 2018

zeaphod said:
My point really is if you used a certain amount of shims in the past, it may not be correct with a new kit as the thrust washer may be a different thickness. I think quite a few people don't have/don't use a gauge to measure preload.

I don’t use a gauge or scale, just do it by feel. I hope most, of not all, check the new assembly by feel at least?

tottot · Oct 17, 2018

+ one, do it by feel.

zeaphod · Oct 17, 2018

I've done it with a makeshift gauge once in 20years. From memory it involved measuring the resistance to a spring of a bag of potatoes of the right weight, then running a string from the hub to the spring. It worked!

marjon · Oct 17, 2018

Doing by feel is great if you know what feels “right” ( I know that could send this Fred into the gutter) I agree when you have done a lot of “things” then you get to know what feels and looks good,Regardless of the make or model.
What was pointed out in the OP, is valid info for those that buy a kit and don’t totally understand the mechanics involved. “ I brought a kit and fitted everything they supplied now it’s worse”.
Having never done 1 myself I appreciate any help in the ways of getting it wrong or right.
I am sure I will be getting into it soon the way our 90 gets abused.

mick 1986 · Oct 17, 2018

marjon said:
Doing by feel is great if you know what feels “right” ( I know that could send this Fred into the gutter) I agree when you have done a lot of “things” then you get to know what feels and looks good,Regardless of the make or model.
What was pointed out in the OP, is valid info for those that buy a kit and don’t totally understand the mechanics involved. “ I brought a kit and fitted everything they supplied now it’s worse”.
Having never done 1 myself I appreciate any help in the ways of getting it wrong or right.
I am sure I will be getting into it soon the way our 90 gets abused.

I agree with most of that, but if your skill level involves “fitting everything in the kit” and hoping for the best, maybe leave important safety jobs like these to people who know what they are doing. No disrespect intended.

Maroondestroyer · Oct 17, 2018

Are you’s talking about the swivel pin shims?

mick 1986 · Oct 17, 2018

Maroondestroyer said:
Are you’s talking about the swivel pin shims?

That’s what I understand it to be about, yes.

Maroondestroyer · Oct 17, 2018

mick 1986 said:
That’s what I understand it to be about, yes.

Thought so.

The shims determine how much “pinch” is between the upper and lower bearing. If the hub is hard move (steering action left and right) add a shim. Too slack, remove a shim, this will apply more “pinch” and remove any play and firm it up. As to which shims to use, trial and error. The thickness of what is supplied doesn’t matter. It is getting the right combination of shims to get the hub to steer left and right with the right resistance.

If that helps anyone.

marjon · Oct 17, 2018

@mick 1986 no problem.
I agree my post may have missed a few things. I suppose my point was to get the info out there, so maybe somebody who thinks it’s easy will see it might not be, then decide it involves more than “my skills”

Now the level of what we all think of our skills is vastly different. It’s a matter of whether you are prepared to ask that “stupid” question to help you decide your own level. As far as “safety jobs” I would pretty much put any job I do on the car as safety, reason is my beloved OH drives it too.

One for the anaoraks - swivel pin thrust washers

zeaphod

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benpalmer

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jamesmartin

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zeaphod

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mick 1986

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tottot

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zeaphod

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marjon

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mick 1986

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Maroondestroyer

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mick 1986

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