OMG i keep breaking down

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Sick of breaking down

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Posts
10
RAC called out and diagnosed clutch were slipping, Off to garage and had Fly wheel, clutch, and he said he had to fit bearing. Drove home struggled to get gear which were fine before but presumed it was me getting used to bite on clutch, but temp gauge was up at half and that never happened before. Full lock on turning in street making noise which was not there before. Took back and he took the wheel off and said some metal had corroded and pulled a chunk off. Driving not far for couple days but just not right, felt slightly vibrational on accelerator. Then another RAC visit because it lost all its coolant and almost overheated. He diagnosed a smallish pipe and said when they fitted clutch they bent the bracket which caused a hole in pipe, so he fitted what he had and followed me to garage. Just picked it up as it was left on car park to collect, drove home as if it had brake stuck on is the only way i can explain it, loss of power at points and smelling burnish with temp going up to half. Just got home with it and checked coolant non in, so filled it to level. Got in now brake pedal hard and solid and back right wheel making whining noise also very vibrational driving home. Passed MOT last couple months and everything good. Drove ok until clutch fitted which was expensive. 2006 TD4 Freelander.

Hope someone can give me any advice as it has to go back to garage now it feels undrivable
Thanks a mere woman keeping the mechanic industry in a job, constantly, because they keep breaking it even more. Not all mechanics by the way.
 
The only useful advice i can give is to take it to a mechanic that knows Landrovers. If the garage that did the clutch will do the extra work for free then no loss i guess, but if you are going to be spending more money find a landcover mechanic. Not a main dealer, because the car isn't worth what it would cost, but there are decent independents all round the country.
Others may be able to offer advice based on what you've posted but it's usually suggestions as to what to look for for people who are going to do the work themselves.

These are great cars. I've had several, but if I wasn't doing the work myself I wouldn't go near one.
 
Who recommended the garage that undertook the original clutch job, was it the RAC if so complain to them that the garage as made your car worse, will they help and intervene? where about are you based so we can give you some idea whom maybe best to help going forward.
 
MGT said:
The only useful advice i can give is to take it to a mechanic that knows Landrovers. If the garage that did the clutch will do the extra work for free then no loss i guess, but if you are going to be spending more money find a landcover mechanic. Not a main dealer, because the car isn't worth what it would cost, but there are decent independents all round the country.
Others may be able to offer advice based on what you've posted but it's usually suggestions as to what to look for for people who are going to do the work themselves.

These are great cars. I've had several, but if I wasn't doing the work myself I wouldn't go near one.
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Thank you to be fair it has been great and i love it, just seems to go for one repair and come back totally different vehicle in a way.
 
Arctic2 said:
Who recommended the garage that undertook the original clutch job, was it the RAC if so complain to them that the garage as made your car worse, will they help and intervene? where about are you based so we can give you some idea whom maybe best to help going forward.
Click to expand...
Thank you.. near Burnley. No RAC just took me back to where it was repaired and told him the fault was the bent bracket and hose due to clutch fitting. Only reason i had it all done because it was such a good vehicle, proper reliable. now it feels like oh its not that must be this syndrome, that never ends.
 
It doesn't sound like the garage that did the work are particularly good. These vehicles aren't complicated by modern standards, but a mechanic does need to know what they are doing to do any work correctly. To me it sounds like the garage has been lazy, and not removed the gearbox, just swung it out the way to do the job quicker.
You would probably be better taking it to a more reputable repair place, and claim your money back from the garage that made it worse. If you paid by credit card, it's easy. If not, then it's more complicated to get your money back.
 
Nodge68 said:
It doesn't sound like the garage that did the work are particularly good. These vehicles aren't complicated by modern standards, but a mechanic does need to know what they are doing to do any work correctly. To me it sounds like the garage has been lazy, and not removed the gearbox, just swung it out the way to do the job quicker.
You would probably be better taking it to a more reputable repair place, and claim your money back from the garage that made it worse. If you paid by credit card, it's easy. If not, then it's more complicated to get your money back.
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Thank you that does make sense.
 
Just to say. Filled coolant and it now seems to not be leaking so they must not have filled it up after job and i drove home with it empty. Starting and running but more woah than go and temp going up towards half but only driven short distance and struggle up hill. Took the oil cap off and still black no cream colour, and oil ok in dipping. very slow uphill, almost could have walked quicker in a way. The back tyre drivers side making whizzing noise as if something is stuck on if that makes sense. Is there anyway the RAC diagnosed the clutch and it could have been something else ? because the loss of power was happening when i first broke down. Will be back on to mechanic tomorrow as it's been weekend. Thank you for comments
 
Ok so we talking about a 2006 TD4 M47 FL1 yes, if so then try unplugging the MAF sensor to see if it makes any difference to your power going up hill, as nodge (John) says they are not complicated cars.

Also flywheel on the M47 seems to be within spec most of the time, so wonder if the garage are just seeing pound signs, i don't rate many garages the RAC recommend to be honest 95% of the so called mechanics who are with RAC & AA are not mechanic's they are technician's and just bolt parts to a car, or sell you a battery.
 
Arctic2 said:
Ok so we talking about a 2006 TD4 M47 FL1 yes, if so then try unplugging the MAF sensor to see if it makes any difference to your power going up hill, as nodge (John) says they are not complicated cars.

Also flywheel on the M47 seems to be within spec most of the time, so wonder if the garage are just seeing pound signs, i don't rate many garages the RAC recommend to be honest 95% of the so called mechanics who are with RAC & AA are not mechanic's they are technician's and just bolt parts to a car, or sell you a battery.
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Sorry for late reply. Really at a loss with it, seems one thing after another now. Decided to have the sensor replaced and it drove better. Since coolant hose replaced it seems to be not leaking but, temp still going up to half with no warning lights when uphill and hot. Never did the temp gauge move up before the original fault and now it goes to half whenever driven. Would you believe the exhaust now seems to be blowing, and the brakes are solid when pressed so it is parked up. Had the front pads done in sept, rang mechanic and he said probably front brake pads? Reminded him he had done them not overly long ago, and he said they wear down. Did them in sept ? I can understand the back as they have not been changed since i bought vehicle, probably a year and half ago. I just feel, that the original fault is still there somehow. How do you go from a reliable vehicle, to a constant battle to keep it on the road. The cost alone is outstanding, and endless at the moment. Creeping up to a few grand, and still not right. Will say this, it gets driven everyday ( did ) but only a few miles, certainly not hammered. Below is a copy of the ad when i bought it to give you some idea of what it has has done already, and thank you for responding.

Seller's description​

Low mileage 4x4 freelanderViscose unit (4x4) changed at 80 000 miles, with prop shaftBespoke stainless steel exhaust by Tony Banks107000 genuine miles, 25000 when we got it in 2013. Tow bar fitted prior to us owning it, and we have never used it.All major work done by Green Oval garage.Services done by me or locallyLeather seats, heated front seats, air conditioning, 6cd multiplayer, front fog lights.This has been a great family car, and its a shame to sell. I has never let me downDoes need a little TLC in places.Bought as seen.
 
Sick of breaking down said:
Since coolant hose replaced it seems to be not leaking but, temp still going up to half with no warning lights when uphill and hot. Never did the temp gauge move up before the original fault and now it goes to half whenever driven.
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on a TD4 M47 FL1 .. the temp should sit at near the half-way mark on the dial. [85c]
if it sits much below that .. then it would show that the thermostat has failed 'open',
'n would need replacing.
 
Sick of breaking down said:
Sorry for late reply. Really at a loss with it, seems one thing after another now. Decided to have the sensor replaced and it drove better. Since coolant hose replaced it seems to be not leaking but, temp still going up to half with no warning lights when uphill and hot. Never did the temp gauge move up before the original fault and now it goes to half whenever driven. Would you believe the exhaust now seems to be blowing, and the brakes are solid when pressed so it is parked up. Had the front pads done in sept, rang mechanic and he said probably front brake pads? Reminded him he had done them not overly long ago, and he said they wear down. Did them in sept ? I can understand the back as they have not been changed since i bought vehicle, probably a year and half ago. I just feel, that the original fault is still there somehow. How do you go from a reliable vehicle, to a constant battle to keep it on the road. The cost alone is outstanding, and endless at the moment. Creeping up to a few grand, and still not right. Will say this, it gets driven everyday ( did ) but only a few miles, certainly not hammered. Below is a copy of the ad when i bought it to give you some idea of what it has has done already, and thank you for responding.

Seller's description​

Low mileage 4x4 freelanderViscose unit (4x4) changed at 80 000 miles, with prop shaftBespoke stainless steel exhaust by Tony Banks107000 genuine miles, 25000 when we got it in 2013. Tow bar fitted prior to us owning it, and we have never used it.All major work done by Green Oval garage.Services done by me or locallyLeather seats, heated front seats, air conditioning, 6cd multiplayer, front fog lights.This has been a great family car, and its a shame to sell. I has never let me downDoes need a little TLC in places.Bought as seen.
Click to expand...
Find another mechanic. Brake pads last 30k miles or more, not 9 months.
My guess is the pads or slides are binding, because the calliper wasn't cleaned and lubricated correctly.

The temperature gauge is supposed to sit half way and stay there, regardless of what the engine is doing. The gauge is calibrated to remain in the mid way position with the engine between 76°C and 105°C. Below 75°C it'll sit at ¼ and above 106°C it'll move to the hot section of the gauge. If the gauge is now showing normal, but before the brakes were done showed cold, it suggests the brakes are binding, making the engine heat up because it's working harder.
 
Nodge68 said:
Find another mechanic. Brake pads last 30k miles or more, not 9 months.
My guess is the pads or slides are binding, because the calliper wasn't cleaned and lubricated correctly.

The temperature gauge is supposed to sit half way and stay there, regardless of what the engine is doing. The gauge is calibrated to remain in the mid way position with the engine between 76°C and 105°C. Below 75°C it'll sit at ¼ and above 106°C it'll move to the hot section of the gauge. If the gauge is now showing normal, but before the brakes were done showed cold, it suggests the brakes are binding, making the engine heat up because it's working harder.
Click to expand...
Your right, he shouted at me on the phone when i said he did front brake pads not too long ago. Gave me a big lecture on it's all how you drive and told me to take it down so he could have a look. Told him i was getting RAC out to diagnose fault and make sure what the problem is first. No way am i driving a vehicle that when you press the brake it's solid and you don't stop. Looked at fuse box and M3 15a engine management fuse is missing and so is the yellow square hill descent fuse and another yellow one engine management. No idea if they have been missing since purchase or even if they mean anything. Thank you for replying
 
You defo need a new mechanic.
If possible, take someone who is mechanically-minded with you when you go back.

Fuses missing are a massive tell-tale…
 
Freddie17 said:
You defo need a new mechanic.
If possible, take someone who is mechanically-minded with you when you go back.

Fuses missing are a massive tell-tale…
Click to expand...
No, only me so have to rely on what they say. Trying to get a mechanic is hard work, always booked up for weeks and a lot don't work on Land Rovers. Thank you for replying
 
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