OIL returns in coolant after HG job

2005 Freelander, 1.8k, purchased with traces of oil in the coolant bottle (bottle was expanded and cracked), however, no overheating and the engine idles like a clock. No history on the vehicle, since it was repossessed by the bank. Paid appox. USD 4000.00.


14 years experience as a machinist plus extensive auto-mechanical experience, (completely overhauled countless engines) so wasn't the least worried about the trace oil in coolant, since research seemed to point to a head gasket failure. (somewhat surprising, since the engine performed normally). Upon removal of the cylinder head, original gasket was in place and didn't show any sign of failure, however, no.4 liner moved easily when I slightly turned the crankshaft for the camshaft sprocket removal . A few pieces of circular black rubber found floating around in the coolant chambers seemed rather odd.

Detailed measurements of liner protrusion showed nothing amiss, so resurfaced cylinder head and re-installed using Victor Reinz MLS gasket, new water pump, timing belt and tensioner. Cooling system flushed to remove all traces of oil, then refilled with OAT coolant for start up.

On startup, engine operates normally for an entire week with no traces of oil in the cooling system. The DREADED oil began showing up one week later and now I'm wondering whether I should have removed the loose cylinder to seal it with hylomar or do I have a more serious issue, which the sealant wouldn't resolve, such as the EVEN MORE DREADED slipped liner ? funny thing is the engine operates normally with no overheating issues and no weird noises.

OMG I hate this bluddy engine ...I have NEVER EVER done such meticulous work on an engine to have a complete failure only one week later. The only reason I'm considering continuing with this is because I already invested so much money in this ridiculously inferior piece of so called engineering.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

firstly - are you aware that the 1.8 has wet liners? - they are easy to disturb with catastrophic results. - "no.4 liner moved easily when I slightly turned the crankshaft" - THERES YOUR PROBLEM - you must NEVER move the crankshaft without clamping all the liners.
You will need to re-seal them - do NOT use hylomar - use the correct stuff and get yourself a copy of the RAVE manual.
Were all the liners at the correct height - that is also critical?


Unless you know all the peculiarities of the K series - I would leave well alone

Indeed....I do possess the rave manual, as I wouldn't touch the engine without extensively researching on it. It's painfully obvious I didn't realise the clamping of the block was to prevent the movement of the liners...I did read that but did not intend to rotate the c.shaft (can't quite remember how it happened ..lol).

In any event, remember the oil in coolant was present before the job was done, so I can only assume it must have been disturbed before.

The liner projections were were within as I remember however, they did seem slightly uneven but not below block surface. For this reason I will have the Payen BW750 + a Victor Reinz on standby for the next repair. I will take accurate measurements of the liner projections this time and will reseal all liners using one of the techniques highlighted on another forum where the liner and piston is removed as one unit without rotating and pre-markings... Then using threaded rods with nuts washers and bushings to keep liners secured, since the oil rail would have been removed to access the connecting rods.

Concerning your comment " do NOT use hylomar " I just ordered 3 tubes of the OEM version of hylomar from LR Direct. Doesn't the manual request the use of hylomar ? Please highlight " the correct stuff " that you speak of.

Thank you kindly for such a speedy reply.

I think the correct stuff is itemised in the Rave.

Don't just use any old Hylomar - it come in many forms and guises.

Don't be bamboozled by the " it wasn't running hot".
Learn about the K series!! The temp gauge measures the water return temp from the radiator. Not the block temperature. The K series also suffers from localised hotspots within the engine which don't show up on the guage.

RTC 3347 is what the RAVE specifies, which is hylomar ; https://www.lrdirect.com/RTC3347-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-hylomar.html

Also been running the engine with icarsoft monitoring and the peak temp observed was 100-101 degrees Celsius after which the cooling fan cuts in and reduces temp.

Do you have any objections or ideas concerning the plan to remove all liners and Pistons combined, or are you happy with it ?

I hear that the entire engine is tossed when the liners slip (drift below block surface) can't we recover these engines by performing a light surface grind of the block, say a few thou, then with all liners in place,protruded above block surface, re grind all cylinders to spec ? What are your views ? Thanks.

I have no thoughts on the matter. Good luck

The black rubbery thing you found may have been part of the seal for the wet liner. I have a 1.8 (2000) Freelander and a KV6 2001. My 1.8 doesn't have an engine oil cooler through which engine oil is cooled by coolant but quite sure that your 2005 does. Based on the symptoms you described, check your oil cooler, it may have corroded internally and is allowing the engine oil and coolant to mix. Oil will be in your coolant and not the other way around since oil is under higher pressure than coolant. Remove the engine oil cooler and have it pressure tested. That actually happened to me on my KV6 just 4 weeks ago but luckily i discovered it at its early stages, the KV6 also has a transmission cooler where it failed internally and allowed the transmission fluid in to the coolant but not the other way round. I tested and confirmed it to be the problem. By the way, i wouldn't trust used ones as they also go bad. By the way i went and got one from the wreckers and luckily tested it and also found it to be bad, then i renewed it and while i was at it, i thought i'd also renew the engine oil cooler to not have it happen again. Replace then remove each coolant hose and clean the gunk out, might be easier to renew them. Flush the engine block + radiator + IRD cooler + heater matrix with a garden hose but not under high pressure, and then flush the cooling system, many folks use water and a good flushing product for this purpose. Then after you've thoroughly flushed to get all the gunk out, fill it with coolant and test.

simdaddy said:

RTC 3347 is what the RAVE specifies, which is hylomar ; https://www.lrdirect.com/RTC3347-supplied-by-bearmach-branded-hylomar.html

Also been running the engine with icarsoft monitoring and the peak temp observed was 100-101 degrees Celsius after which the cooling fan cuts in and reduces temp.

Do you have any objections or ideas concerning the plan to remove all liners and Pistons combined, or are you happy with it ?

I hear that the entire engine is tossed when the liners slip (drift below block surface) can't we recover these engines by performing a light surface grind of the block, say a few thou, then with all liners in place,protruded above block surface, re grind all cylinders to spec ? What are your views ? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Blue Hylomar is fine for the liners. This is what Rover specify. I've used it more times than I can remember. I got some "correct" sealant from Rover many years ago. When I opened the Rover box, there was a tube of standard Hylomar Blue inside. Years later I got an opportunity to speak to a Rover design engineer on this very subject, amongst others. He told me that Hylomar was used on the production line.

Dropped liners can be raised with shims or a couple of thou taken off the top of the block.
By far the best gasket to use is the latest Payen elastopolimer gasket. This seals much better than the MLS as it's more tolerant on poor sealing faces.

Thanks for the replies. Concerning the oil cooler issue , there is no oil cooler on this freelander.

I currently have in my possession the blue Payen elastomer gasket as well as the victor Reinz mls.

I did consider engines being tossed for a dropped liner a little extreme, considering the block could've been ground slightly to raise the lip of the liner.

I also have an exchange unit (engine) from the dealer sitting in my store room in the event all else fails ....

On another note, I just found a 2000 freelander KV6 which was left at a repair shop and is being sold cheap. Can I swap this KV6 engine and gearbox into my 1.8 Freelander ? Of course I'm considering all the wiring, ECU, pedals and shifter...etc.. Has anyone done this before ? Also would there be any issues with engine and box mounts ?

simdaddy said:

Thanks for the replies. Concerning the oil cooler issue , there is no oil cooler on this freelander.

I currently have in my possession the blue Payen elastomer gasket as well as the victor Reinz mls.

I did consider engines being tossed for a dropped liner a little extreme, considering the block could've been ground slightly to raise the lip of the liner.

I also have an exchange unit (engine) from the dealer sitting in my store room in the event all else fails ....

On another note, I just found a 2000 freelander KV6 which was left at a repair shop and is being sold cheap. Can I swap this KV6 engine and gearbox into my 1.8 Freelander ? Of course I'm considering all the wiring, ECU, pedals and shifter...etc.. Has anyone done this before ? Also would there be any issues with engine and box mounts ?

Click to expand...

If you have the time and inclination, such a swap is possible.