Oil recomendation

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johnnyb70

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452
Hi all I'd just like to recommend an oil especially for the rv8. It's pennrite hpr 10/50. It's an Aussie oil available from classic oils in Bicester. To sum up it's a full synthetic( hydrocracked petroleum base) with plenty of zddp. With a thicker warm rating.so called extra 10 ie it's 10/50.other viscosities are available. This one is £30 for 5 l delivered. Try it I was really impressed.
Jb ps I have no affiliation just buying something like Valvoline vr1 dino 20/50 was quite pricey for a cheaply made super basic oil annoyed me.
 
johnnyb70 said:
Hi all I'd just like to recommend an oil especially for the rv8. It's pennrite hpr 10/50. It's an Aussie oil available from classic oils in Bicester. To sum up it's a full synthetic( hydrocracked petroleum base) with plenty of zddp. With a thicker warm rating.so called extra 10 ie it's 10/50.other viscosities are available. This one is £30 for 5 l delivered. Try it I was really impressed.
Jb ps I have no affiliation just buying something like Valvoline vr1 dino 20/50 was quite pricey for a cheaply made super basic oil annoyed me.
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Carlube or Comma same grade are much cheaper and just as good.
 
We had a guy from Pennrite down to my traction engine club the other Friday to give a talk on the history of oils which was quite interesting and he was saying that there is not much difference between oils just a few cleaning agents and over inflated prices, one of the main things was for older engines make sure it has the zddp additive.
 
brianp38dse said:
one of the main things was for older engines make sure it has the zddp additive.
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Synthetics are no good for the old RV8 as the oil pump needs something to get it's teeth (as in gear) into, mineral oil is much preferred.
High zddp is the way to go as the engine is of the flat-tappet design - Valvoline VR1 racing & Millers 20w50 Classic have 1200ppm.
Halfrauds Classic 20w50 is made by Comma who also market it under their own name, but to the best of my knowledge these oils no not have the same level of zddp
nb: I bought 5ltrs. of VR1 recently on the 'bay for less than £30 quid delivered.
 
brianp38dse said:
We had a guy from Pennrite down to my traction engine club the other Friday to give a talk on the history of oils which was quite interesting and he was saying that there is not much difference between oils just a few cleaning agents and over inflated prices, one of the main things was for older engines make sure it has the zddp additive.
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I think that's roughly true apart from the top end Shell one. That does seem to be the business. However, if you're changing your oil every 5k miles as I do then frankly any semi-decent oil will do. I get 20L drums off the eBay shop of Smith & Allan and never had any issues.
 
I get FREE oil, that's the best oil, first for my P38, then when I change it, it goes into my Series2.....
 
I realise oil posts are controversial and individual but after years of running 10/40 semi which is the correct grade for my v8 I (still £20-30) I am convinced that our motors require a strange combination of zddp and thicker than normal. Also this is not a real full synthetic but a hydrocracked petroleum hence why it's so cheap. A true synthetic would be more like £60 for 5l. It will retain it's grade much better than vr1 20/50. That is a fact. It has advertised high levels of zddp. That's a fact. It's a similar price to other oils that are less appropriate. Another fact. What's not to love! An oil pump will pump cooking oil or triple ester synthetic. It's not bothered. PS the top end shell is also a hydrocracked petroleum base so exactly the same as penrite! Why would someone who gets oil free not put fresh oil in there motor?
Jb
 
I'm in total agreement if you change your oil every 5000 and you get free oil then that will do( not to thin though) . If you have to buy it then make a judgement.
 
johnnyb70 said:
I realise oil posts are controversial and individual but after years of running 10/40 semi which is the correct grade for my v8 I (still £20-30) I am convinced that our motors require a strange combination of zddp and thicker than normal. Also this is not a real full synthetic but a hydrocracked petroleum hence why it's so cheap. A true synthetic would be more like £60 for 5l. It will retain it's grade much better than vr1 20/50. That is a fact. It has advertised high levels of zddp. That's a fact. It's a similar price to other oils that are less appropriate. Another fact. What's not to love! An oil pump will pump cooking oil or triple ester synthetic. It's not bothered. PS the top end shell is also a hydrocracked petroleum base so exactly the same as penrite! Why would someone who gets oil free not put fresh oil in there motor?
Jb
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Tried the Halfrauds 20/50 classic in a V8 and must admit it sounded very quiet and smooth. Think I'd prefer 10/50 in winter though.
 
20/50w would be fine. The difference between 10 and 20 grade isn't enough to make it hard to start.
Cars of old almost always ran on 20/50 and let's face it, the rv8 isn't exactly a modern engine!
 
Wazzajnr said:
Cars of old almost always ran on 20/50 and let's face it, the rv8 isn't exactly a modern engine!
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Sorry to be pedantic but if you go back far enough they ran on straight 30 or 40 grade, or if you had a near-knackered engine, 50 grade. Showing my age here !
The RV8 was designed back in the 'sixties & apart from being all alloy it was still just a OHV V8 from years before then.

nb: I have my oil changed at less than 4k mile intervals, recently lost my local indie :( so I'll be relying on the local garage.
 
The point about full synthetic v dino 20/50 is you put in 20/50 after 6 mths it's 20/40 12 mths it's 15/30 or worse dependant on quality. 10/50 full synthetic remains on grade much better. I think even comma have stopped using the cheapest ( cat 1 ) basestocks in there dino oils as they are so outdated they aren't easily available anymore. So nearly all oils are mostly cat 2 base at semi or mineral. Semi has more than 12% cat 3. Full is a marketing term but usually means a majority of cat 3 (hydrocracked petroleum base)ie from crude but purified heavily. Cat 4 and 5 are proper synthetics not made from oil at all.(£60 plus per 5l) the problem with zddp is it tends to poison cats hence why I would just use the recommended grade oil in say my "normal" car and not penrite. Or even the p38 diesel. Hence the reason why comma or carlube or Morris is not the oil for the v8. I believe Miller's still has good zddp levels though but is expensive. Vr1 will be a cat 2 with good zddp so is fine but expensive for a dino. Halfords wilko et Al I don't know but my guess is if cat 1base oil is still available these products will use it. I would also suggest there viscosity modifiers will be very poor. pour in treacle oil change pour out 5/30. Think our engines being so old can cope with poor oils but they thrive on a quality oil. Modern engines simply cannot even begin to run on crap oils.
 
norseman said:
Sorry to be pedantic but if you go back far enough they ran on straight 30 or 40 grade, or if you had a near-knackered engine, 50 grade. Showing my age here !
The RV8 was designed back in the 'sixties & apart from being all alloy it was still just a OHV V8 from years before then.

nb: I have my oil changed at less than 4k mile intervals, recently lost my local indie :( so I'll be relying on the local garage.
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Agree completely. The modern trend for very thin oil is mostly about fuel economy, not engine longevity.

johnnyb70 said:
The point about full synthetic v dino 20/50 is you put in 20/50 after 6 mths it's 20/40 12 mths it's 15/30 or worse dependant on quality. 10/50 full synthetic remains on grade much better. I think even comma have stopped using the cheapest ( cat 1 ) basestocks in there dino oils as they are so outdated they aren't easily available anymore. So nearly all oils are mostly cat 2 base at semi or mineral. Semi has more than 12% cat 3. Full is a marketing term but usually means a majority of cat 3 (hydrocracked petroleum base)ie from crude but purified heavily. Cat 4 and 5 are proper synthetics not made from oil at all.(£60 plus per 5l) the problem with zddp is it tends to poison cats hence why I would just use the recommended grade oil in say my "normal" car and not penrite. Or even the p38 diesel. Hence the reason why comma or carlube or Morris is not the oil for the v8. I believe Miller's still has good zddp levels though but is expensive. Vr1 will be a cat 2 with good zddp so is fine but expensive for a dino. Halfords wilko et Al I don't know but my guess is if cat 1base oil is still available these products will use it. I would also suggest there viscosity modifiers will be very poor. pour in treacle oil change pour out 5/30. Think our engines being so old can cope with poor oils but they thrive on a quality oil. Modern engines simply cannot even begin to run on crap oils.
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Engines won't run well on crap oils, but they don't need high priced premium oils if there are cheaper equivalents with the same formulation.

Have you considered becoming a pennrite salesman? You might make some commission, and get a discount on your favourite oil? :)
 
I doubt I'd make my "bus fare home". landrover chaps resent paying for "new" oil let alone "premium" oil. Trust me £30 delivered is not premium oil.
Jb
 
johnnyb70 said:
I doubt I'd make my "bus fare home". landrover chaps resent paying for "new" oil let alone "premium" oil. Trust me £30 delivered is not premium oil.
Jb
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I always buy new oil. But always the same type, high detergent diesel multigrade. I sometimes use it in petrol engines too, although I don't have many, just lawnmowers and stuff.

If that is for 5l, it isn't exorbitant, probably not as much as Castrol. The one I use for older engines is this one. Prices vary, but about £3.50 a litre.

http://www.kernow-oils.co.uk/shop-b...formance-diesel-engine-lubricant-11/c-113452/

For modern engines, I use Carlube 5/30, little bit dearer, but it is fully synthetic as specified for Td5, and my Ford Duratorque.

Had good results with those for many years.
 
The reason car manufacturers recommend oils is because they are in the pocket of the oil barons, who pay them to made you use their oil, for life.... because they recommend it, you use it and it makes them a lot of £££
 
johnnyb70 said:
The point about full synthetic v dino 20/50 is you put in 20/50 after 6 mths it's 20/40 12 mths it's 15/30 or worse dependant on quality. 10/50 full synthetic remains on grade much better. I think even comma have stopped using the cheapest ( cat 1 ) basestocks in there dino oils as they are so outdated they aren't easily available anymore. So nearly all oils are mostly cat 2 base at semi or mineral. Semi has more than 12% cat 3. Full is a marketing term but usually means a majority of cat 3 (hydrocracked petroleum base)ie from crude but purified heavily. Cat 4 and 5 are proper synthetics not made from oil at all.(£60 plus per 5l) the problem with zddp is it tends to poison cats hence why I would just use the recommended grade oil in say my "normal" car and not penrite. Or even the p38 diesel. Hence the reason why comma or carlube or Morris is not the oil for the v8. I believe Miller's still has good zddp levels though but is expensive. Vr1 will be a cat 2 with good zddp so is fine but expensive for a dino. Halfords wilko et Al I don't know but my guess is if cat 1base oil is still available these products will use it. I would also suggest there viscosity modifiers will be very poor. pour in treacle oil change pour out 5/30. Think our engines being so old can cope with poor oils but they thrive on a quality oil. Modern engines simply cannot even begin to run on crap oils.
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where did you get that info from? I sure would like to see a source for that, as many others would also. What kills oil in heat, and dirt. lack of changing oil and filter at least 5-6k miles. If city driving even sooner. Also oil needs changing at least once a year at a minimum, as condensation kills oil
 
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