Got the new turbo.. Starter shouldn't be an issue.. Have never stripped an engine (yet... Laughing.. might start educating myself) so will most likely look to the landrover garage to source this..
Oil light and the aftermath
- Thread starter Orsonium
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
you wont strip it that was just a way of proof, as will the driving for a few weeks hence a guarantee which good suppliers will offer, your original engine had miles on it so used, like the one youll be fitting but not run low pressure on oil which is a killer for td5
Grand... The oil pressure importance is now crystal clear, lesson truly learnt.. When I get the Landy sorted there's no way, Jose, it will suffer the same way.. get the gauge too and watch it like a mother possessed!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
id just get a new oil pump bolt ,get that fitted before fitting the engine chances are its already been done but best to make sure, if you had oil pump failure its most likely it was that bolt
Gotcha.. etched into my consciousness
Problem is for them its a game and I dont mean that in a **** taking way, they want your custom and they would like it to be repeat custom, so they try and save you money by just doing the oil pump and hey it seemed to work, they think great, and then bang its back again and again, I bet they wont do it again.
Whay Im trying to say is they may have actually been trying to do you a favour and save you money and its botten you and them in the arse.
They may have misinterpereted what you said to them, but any mech worth his salt and hearing the words no oil pressure at high speed then still no pressure for a couple of minutes would write the engine off straight away, maybe pull the rocker cover and say look at them cams, or yes we can do whatever you as the paying customer wants, BUT theres no warranty on this job.
- Posts
- 6,166
- Location
- North Manchester
My bolt took 16 years and nearly 150k miles to sheer off but I was lucky as the engine survived.
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,901
- Location
- Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
I don't have this engine but would never have thought that this could be a fatal flaw. Is it comom enough to be on a list of what to look for when buying a td5?
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,870
- Location
- Thatcham
If it was mine, I'd investigate the potential damage before buying a replacement engine. As said, the turbo would probably be the first thing to suffer so see what that is like first. I reckon the big ends would be the next thing to suffer but they are made of much softer material than the crank cos they are sacrificial. If you are lucky, a new turbo and a set of big ends might be all it needs.
Col
Col
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
Common enough,it is often recommended to check it after buying. Not something you can check before purchase though.
Cheers
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
easily rectified though once its in bits, fit the new bolt with threadlock
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
Might is the problem the op is having at the minute.
Im all for cutting costs etc but he might spend a load of money and something else will fail that was effected by the lack of oil and so it wil go on.
2nf hand engine, then stirp the old one at his leisure and learn whats what.
Stock_90_TD5_SW
Active Member
- Posts
- 156
- Location
- Estonia
Orsonium, I really wish You get this sorted in the most painless way.. also that the garage will refund or participate financially in the purchase of the replacement engine.
Driving a 2006 TD5, we checked the oil pump sump bolt, but it was so tightly fitted that we didn't want to mess with it (I had a new bolt and threadlock ready). Was it a wrong decision, should we have changed the bolt even if it was rock solid in?
Driving a 2006 TD5, we checked the oil pump sump bolt, but it was so tightly fitted that we didn't want to mess with it (I had a new bolt and threadlock ready). Was it a wrong decision, should we have changed the bolt even if it was rock solid in?
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
I personally would have done. Unless I knew for sure that the bolt in there was a threadlocked one.
wireman
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,169
- Location
- Warrington
It was my understanding that it was the 10p version of the Td5 that suffered with the Oil Pump bolt problem. Yours being a 2006 should have the 15p version which also had steel cylinder head dowels (the 10p had plastic).
neilly
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,000
- Location
- Oxfordshireness
A few 15P engines have had the same failure mode as well, one was even on here a year or so back.
Cheers
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
As neilly says. Some later 15p engines suffered aswell.
If it was me, regardless of what td5 engine it was - I would check that bolt, for peace of mind, as can be seen from this thread if it falls out then it can be a total Heart ache.
raywin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,808
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Just a thought on the oil pressure gauge, when the bolt drops out the oil pump stops dead and the oil pressure goes to zero instantly so you can't see it coming I.e. the pressure won't start to fall off slowly and give you warning of impending doom, having said that it would not hurt to have a gauge but the oil light will react at the same speed.
I agree with the people saying find a reputable supplier and source a second hand engine, maybe strip the old one for any good spares, starter should not be affected oil pump "should" be new water pump should be good, see what else is good and get a list of what the garage fitted to it, may be worth asking why they did this work without checking what the real story was with this engine.
Sorry to read about all your problems, hope 2019 is a better year for you.
I agree with the people saying find a reputable supplier and source a second hand engine, maybe strip the old one for any good spares, starter should not be affected oil pump "should" be new water pump should be good, see what else is good and get a list of what the garage fitted to it, may be worth asking why they did this work without checking what the real story was with this engine.
Sorry to read about all your problems, hope 2019 is a better year for you.
Thanks for your reply.. Happy New Year!
Just waiting for the garages here to re-open and I'll start over again... There's a place in Airdre that sells reconditioned TD5 engines (they have a 10,000 mile warranty) but I haven't the foggiest whether that is good/bad or indifferent. My lack of knowledge when it comes to the actual nuts & bolts of land rovers is glaringly obvious so I have to put trust in those that are experts. My learning from this chapter is that not everyone who works in garages are great mechanics - Duh! I'm really hoping the guys who have Gemm 4x4 are ace.. They only deal with Landrovers, seem to love them (this is a big thumbs up in my book) and have a good reputation. My local garage aren't so enthusiastic, they look at it and see an "old" vehicle, where as Gemm see "TD5 Defender, great "..
When it comes to changing the bolt, I'd ask for it to be done just for peace of mind.. if the one thats there isn't flawed then a good garage (?) will let you know.. Can't do any harm I guess.. Joining this forum has also been good - I'm going to get a oil gauge fitted - advise given here and something I never thought about before. The oil warning light on the dash isn't really fit for purpose.. If that goes on when you're driving, it would appear that you have just trashed your engine quicker than you can click your fingers..
