Oil leaking?! TD4 Engine bay

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TElsworth

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Peak District
My TD4 sometimes runs on once I switch the ignition off, which is strange. I have changed the crankcase pressure valve for the filterless BMW design one as a matter of course but the problem still persists. I have ordered some new intercooler hoses and will fit them when they arrive, but I noticed a funny leakage around the left hand side of the engine. I have taken a photograph for you to see. Could someone have a look and suggest what might the problem be and if there is a cure for it and could this be the cause of the engine running on?
 

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Hi and welcome to LandyZone,

First of all I suspect that the oil leaks are unrelated to the running on problem, but I'm sure that someone else will be able to comment on that. I would get someone to rev the engine to about 3000rpm and the turbo hoses should be solidly hard due to the pressure. Give them a good squeeze and you may well find they are leaky or porous. Looks like they have been leaking for a while.

There is no top engine cover in your pics. Did you take it off to take the pics? - or do you not have a cover?

If you're running without a cover there will be oil leaking from the threaded hole in the middle of the pic. If you do have a cover and it is leaking you can fix it by fitting a small copper washer at that hole. The other 2 fixing screw-holes will not leak.

In the 2nd pic I think that you have a screw missing from the upper left of the pic. It is one of 4 that secure the EGR (or is that a by-pass that is already fitted?) to the inlet ducting. All 4 need to be really tight.

The 90degree bend hose could well have a split in it somewhere. Also the thin 9mm jubillee hose clip is not up to the job. When you get the new turbo hoses I suggest that you fit a 'T'-bolt clamp at that join. The wider 12mm hose clips are strong enough for the other joins.

After you fit the new hoses you should re-check the tightness after a couple of hundred miles.

Once you have fitted new hoses you may find that the running on has been cured, as it just might have been caused by leaky hoses.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
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Whoa! Thanks for all that information.

I do have a cover but have been running the engine with it off :5bblush5: oops guess that might be a big cause for the oil everywhere!

I will source a new bolt for the by pass valve asap as well. The new hoses should be here soon and I ordered the T-bolt kit with them so should be sorted when they come through and I get my act together to fit all the fixings in where they should be.

Really appreciate the help even if it is bloody obvious stuff that I have been missing. oops

Thanks
TElsworth
 
Are there any other symptoms? Mine would occasionally run on, occasionally be reluctant to start after being turned off for five minutes when up to temp and often idle roughly when warm. All three were cured by replacing a faulty fuel pressure sensor.
 
Yeah it has a lumpy idle sometimes but i cure this by spraying contact cleaner on all the contacts in the engine bay. I guess I should change the sensor and the wiring loom as I have heard these are common problems but it is easier and cheaper to use the contact spray at this moment in time.
The engine also has a roverron synergy kit fitted with new MAF sensor.
 
Knowing that this is an old post, I still think I found my answer ;-)
Have a question to Singvogel though.

*** If you're running without a cover there will be oil leaking from the threaded hole in the middle of the pic. If you do have a cover and it is leaking you can fix it by fitting a small copper washer at that hole. The other 2 fixing screw-holes will not leak***

Very noob on cars, and I've only owned a Land Rover for about a month, but "working" hard to "learn" as this is a car I really care about ;-)

You are saying that I can fit a copper washer at the leaking hole, now where exactly would it go??. Between the leaking bolt and the engine cover ? or after fitting the engine cover so sort of between the engine cover and the nut..?

Thx in advance
 
Doubt if Singvogel will see your post as he no longer has his Freelander. The copper, or fibre, washer should fit between the cover and the fixing holes, if you fit it between the head of the bolt and the cover oil could still leak from under the cover. There's not usually a need for a washer when the cover is in place. You could always use thread sealant when you refit the bolt if oil continues to leak out of the bolt hole.
 
Thx for answer..
Pls go easy on my english as I am not a native speaker ;-)

might have to go back and have another look, cause I have this weird feeling the oil may not be leaking form the bolt hole itself, how do I explain this.. hmm... on top of the engine itself, are these two black plastic? "towers" sticking out, onto/into those, the cover bolts are fixed, I may think that the leak is from where the "towers" are fixed to the engine top.. Does that make any sense..?? If I grab the top of the coverbolt and rocks it gently from side to side, it seems to be moving just a tiny bit.... could ther be a "crack" down there, leaking oil..? Or is the bolt-mount supposed to move a tiny bit..??

thx for answers... much appreciated...
 
Sounds like it could be the crankcase breather/filter. If it hasn't been modified to the BMW vortex type already then the filter could be blocked resulting in the crankcase becoming pressurised. Do a search on the forum and you will see many posts relating to the pressurisation problem and the crankcase breather.
 
Hola. Finally got a picture, so here we go:

A: points to the bolt in question (The one the acoustic cover is attached to)

B: points to a yellow line marking the crack, from where oil leaks out.

Just a little, but steady.. I have removed the acoustic cover to not "rock" the bolt/mounting anymore, as I guess it will only lead to an even bigger crack, or worst case scenario a hole and a missing bolt all together...

Suggestions..??

Thx guys

PS... If I end up looking for a replacement part, what is the part, that the acoustic cover bolt is attached to, called in english..??
 

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Hola. Finally got a picture, so here we go:

A: points to the bolt in question (The one the acoustic cover is attached to)

B: points to a yellow line marking the crack, from where oil leaks out.

Just a little, but steady.. I have removed the acoustic cover to not "rock" the bolt/mounting anymore, as I guess it will only lead to an even bigger crack, or worst case scenario a hole and a missing bolt all together...

Suggestions..??

Thx guys

PS... If I end up looking for a replacement part, what is the part, that the acoustic cover bolt is attached to, called in english..??

dont worry about fitting the acoustic cover as it dont make much difference, the crack around the support turret, i would give it a good clean and rough up with sandpaper and seal using a two part epoxy glue this should seal it well enough to stop oil escaping, leave the cover off
 
Cheers all for your answers and suggestions... In the end I got a "new" rocker cover from Gentlemen of Salvage at 40 pounds. That way I wont have to worry and check if the glue holds or not, and for sure the acoustic cover is not going back on....

Great weekend to all.....
 
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