Disco 1 Oil leak

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Firebobby1

Firebobby1

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I know I know, it's a LR and they are designed to leak oil, but I have a leak which is getting worser and worser.
It seems to be from the front of the engine, so I've had a look and it seems to be coming from the sump gasket. I can't see oil above the sump area. Is this a known leak area on these engines, a d can I change it with the engine in
 
Yes, yes, and yes :D:D … though I am aiming for no, yes, and yes ;).. use a new cork gasket with red rtv… Mike at Britannica restorations did a good vid on it iirc..

And, … watch the torque setting on the bolts - it’s very low 10 or 11 Nm IIRC o_O

Worth checking it’s not coming from the timing cover .. I.E. the crank nose seal ? Had that twice due OEM seals which had never seen OEM :mad::mad:
 
Firebobby1 said:
I know I know, it's a LR and they are designed to leak oil, but I have a leak which is getting worser and worser.
It seems to be from the front of the engine, so I've had a look and it seems to be coming from the sump gasket. I can't see oil above the sump area. Is this a known leak area on these engines, a d can I change it with the engine in
Click to expand...
Check the sump itself isn't actually porous. This happened to me. :eek::eek:
and check it hasn't at some time in the past been overtightened down as this warps the edge of the sump which will lead to leaks. You may be able to sort that out, if it is the case with some light persuasion!;)
 
IMG_20221023_164654773.jpg
IMG_20221023_164608219.jpg
Thanks both, I will check out the Britannica restorations video.
I've taken some photos.
 
I've never replaced one before, closest thing I've done is replaced the timing belt. Depending if your handy with the tools (you will need more than just basic tools) it's not too bad, just time consuming as the timing cover will need to come off so anything in the way of that will need removing. Loads of info on YouTube and probably on here of how to do it.

When was the timing belt last done on yours? If it needs replacing soon I would get it done then (can't remember when they're supposed to be changed, 30.000m maybe?)
 
steve24v said:
I've never replaced one before, closest thing I've done is replaced the timing belt. Depending if your handy with the tools (you will need more than just basic tools) it's not too bad, just time consuming as the timing cover will need to come off so anything in the way of that will need removing. Loads of info on YouTube and probably on here of how to do it.

When was the timing belt last done on yours? If it needs replacing soon I would get it done then (can't remember when they're supposed to be changed, 30.000m maybe?)
Click to expand...
The belt was done about a year ago and about 1k miles. I'll have a look at what is involved.
Thanks for the info
 
To do the crank seal requires the belt off… but a newish belt can be re-used.. have a nosy at the glencoyne site.

personally, I would treat it as essentially like a belt change, so change the seal, keep the tensioner and idler pulleys, but replace the belt - not worth refitting for the £20 they cost.. Dayco or Gates only IME.

Don’t forget to replace the O ring behind the crank pulley.. seen that let go a few times :rolleyes: … but it is right in front of the oil pump, so has its work cut out for it ;)

Use a Corteco seal, or expect to keep doing the job until you do…:D

www.glencoyne.co.uk/belt.him
 
steve24v said:
That's a shame. If you can do the timing belt yourself then go for it, the seal can be replaced once the belt has been removed.
Click to expand...
I've had a look at a you tube clip and removing the rad, grill and other bits, gives access, it's messing with the timing belt that I'm not so sure about.
 
Not too bad to be honest, i followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. Take your time and you will be ok.

You will need a torque wrench to set the tension on the belt I used one like this which is recommended
83FE1175-6BD8-44AA-9336-C1F223849E79.thumb.jpeg.263ffe58e3312a7260e0613999744519.jpeg


Also some locking pins for the flywheel and injector pump.
Lastly a torque wrench to do the crank pully.
Might be something I missed as it was about 6 years ago when I did mine.
 
steve24v said:
Not too bad to be honest, i followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. Take your time and you will be ok.

You will need a torque wrench to set the tension on the belt I used one like this which is recommended
View attachment 276959

Also some locking pins for the flywheel and injector pump.
Lastly a torque wrench to do the crank pully.
Might be something I missed as it was about 6 years ago when I did mine.
Click to expand...
Thanks muchly, but anything to do with timing belts or chains, scares the B Jesus out of me. Think I will have to farm this job out.
 
Firebobby1 said:
Thanks muchly, but anything to do with timing belts or chains, scares the B Jesus out of me. Think I will have to farm this job out.
Click to expand...

it’s an easy job, but you NEED the right tools - the proper torque wrench for the tensioner, and another torque wrench for the crank nut. And the locking pins as post 12.. if you were closer, I’d cheerfully assist.. so, is there anyone closer to you that would help ?
 
Disco1BFG said:
it’s an easy job, but you NEED the right tools - the proper torque wrench for the tensioner, and another torque wrench for the crank nut. And the locking pins as post 12.. if you were closer, I’d cheerfully assist.. so, is there anyone closer to you that would help ?
Click to expand...
I would like to have a go, but with someone else giving advice. I've been quoted £500 +vat for the labour plus parts on top of that, from a local Indy, I did say I would like to help, as it's a small place. He's not interested though.
I don't mind traveling :D
 
An update, it started leaking again, so I took it back and he said he put another seal in, but it's still leaking.
Now he's saying, he's not sure why it's leaking again.
I've lost confidence in him doing the job..or not, as it seems.
So still got a incontinent D1, which is not good.
 
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