oil leak from gearbox?

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So seems to me that without that SAI operating correctly as long as the car gets a good thrashing before an MOT it should be ok without it?
 
Back up, that stray connector.... is it not for the the 'secondary air pump relay' just below
the said connector in your picture???? And its missing its dust boot....
 
Bemble said:
The photo is of my 2003 4.4 V8.

The valve is part of the secondary air injection system to get the cats to light off quickly on a cold engine start (for emission regs.). It only operates for a maximum of a couple of minutes and then only if the engine coolant temperature is below 75 deg. C when the engine is started.

So do you have the rest of the components of the SAI system shown in the diagram? Have you had an lpg conversion?

Phil
Click to expand...

thanks Phil, have you thought about going on mastermind?

we (or Jason) will have a look tomorrow, ive totalled up to buy just the valve parts and pipework and it was looking at around £160 so if i don't really need it then i wont rush out and buy it.

do you think this had anything to do with my vacuum hose collapsing, its the one that runs from the servo box across the back of the engine?

no LPG thankfully, i have enough things to go wrong..

Andy
 
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loony said:
http://www.e38.org/m62tu.pdf

page 28 clever stuff.
Click to expand...

page 9, is that the drivers seat its referring to ???

in answer to your question Phil as to whether i have any part i think i have the nut in the following pic :(

Vacuumventvalve_zpsb55ec65b.jpg
 
If you aint got THAT bit, then your PCV valve wont work properly, which is probably why your brake servo is collapsing,i think it connects to PCV.
 
So do you still have the pump (4), vacuum reservoir (3) and non-return valve (1) or has someone removed the lot?

Secondaryairinjectionsystem_zps9548538f.jpg


Engines are really dull, aren’t they? Transmissions are far more interesting…..:)
 
holidaychicken said:
my servo vacuum pipe was sucked in on itself so we had to fit a stent, could this be why?
Click to expand...
Provided that the pipe between the inlet manifold and “where the reservoir (3) would have been” is blanked off I can’t see how this could affect the PCV circuit. If I understand it correctly, the vacuum is only used to switch the one-way valve (1) on and off - under the control of the vent valve (2) i.e. the vacuum opens the one-way valve (1) to allow air flow from the pump (4) to the exhaust when the SAI is activated but then blanks it off once the required temperature is reached and the pump (4) is simultaneously turned off.

There’s a whole raft of fault codes for the incorrect operation of the SAI system. As it’s emission related you’d think the engine light would be activated on the dash? Strange....
 
Bemble said:
Provided that the pipe between the inlet manifold and “where the reservoir (3) would have been” is blanked off I can’t see how this could affect the PCV circuit. If I understand it correctly, the vacuum is only used to switch the one-way valve (1) on and off - under the control of the vent valve (2) i.e. the vacuum opens the one-way valve (1) to allow air flow from the pump (4) to the exhaust when the SAI is activated but then blanks it off once the required temperature is reached and the pump (4) is simultaneously turned off.

There’s a whole raft of fault codes for the incorrect operation of the SAI system. As it’s emission related you’d think the engine light would be activated on the dash? Strange....
Click to expand...

i'll have a look through the all comms when i get a sec see what that has to say. if the rest of the car is anything to go by, somebody has probably taken the bulb out of the warning light

we are just about to launch off on our first proper test drive since the rebuild, hopefully i will be back reporting good things soon..
 
Maybe the spec. changed during the three years of production (though there's nothing on Microcat that suggests it did)? Mine was built in January 2003.
 
Andy will be along soon but this is what I have gathered so far.

car felt good for approx. 15 miles or so then after a decent speed run up the motorway and checking all the gears selected ok in manual/sport mode we came off the motorway and went through some twisty sections and roundabouts.

During the last turn Left to right, the car started to judder as though the wheel speeds were trying to be controlled unsuccessfully. Then as we gained speed up an inclined slip road the rumbling noise was definitely there, the rumble noise peaks and troughs, as in resonates, its not a constant sound. after that the noise came back as it had done before under light load low speed incline.

*** EDIT we did experience the noise at 70mph too ***

My instinct is saying differential as it sounds like its coming from the back end.

But, we are not completely sure that the transfer box is functioning properly because it doesn't actually work in the high/low range change. Fuses are in place but the switch doesn't trigger the actuator.

Think Andy is going to go for new tyres which are needed. The rear tyres are unevenly worn and near limit on the front, so good chance that the circumferences are wrong. The wheels are 20 inch if this makes any difference

Looks like the front and rear diff oil should be checked and renewed and then possibly looking into the service of the CV joints around the whole car as we have no idea if they are ok or not.

Gear box sounds good. it all functions very smoothly. Leaks are now gone so hopefully we can try and figure this rumble having the Gb and TC taken away from the equation.

I need to check but are there wheel speed sensors on each corner that send data to control power distribution?
 
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The L322 does have DSC 9Dynamic Stability Control) that uses the brake system to control wheel speed if cornering to hard...it uses various sensors to determine stability....

Yaw Sensor
EAS Height Sensors
ABS Speed Sensors
Steering Angle Sensor etc etc

As for the rumbling....the rear prop is held with a saddle bearing - these have been known to wear causing a rumbling similar to the TC on the way out.

Also I changed all 4 tyres on mine in May (19") and I noticed a distinct change in vibration/rumbling.

A 4 wheel alighnment wouldn't go amiss either.

If the GB shifts smooth and kicks down willingly, I'd say you have done a grand job (did you put the remaining oil in the box (11 litres)?

The non-functioning Transfer box I doubt would have any input to the rumbling, unless the oil level is low....a check of the CV's and the diffs is a good call!
 
Yes, topped up oil today as RAVE procedure.

Added 9.5 Liters before I ran out of fresh oil yesterday. Got car warmed up today, shifted through PRND, removed bung added 1.5-1.75 liters, did another PRND, checked oil temp coming out of the GB read at 30-35 Degrees, at that point I got about 0.5 liters back out until a steady slow stream and buttoned up at that.

Clutching at straws andy, try another steering angle calibrate and read this quote from here

Brad,

I too have also reset the trans this way with the key in turned and foot on the accelerator, it does sharpen it up but as you say only for a short while.

My car does make a definate judder like something is slipping and not so much a droning noise. As previous post says i have changed the torque converter and now i am stumped
Click to expand...

Transmission needs help!!
 
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