oil leak from gearbox?

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holidaychicken said:
i am not mad but my mate is, officially certified" i love MY certificate "
oh and a hidden bonus, i found out today my transfer box doesn't work, well nothing at all happens when i try and engage low, i have never tried it since i bought it so we can sort that at the same time
Click to expand...

If they don't work, generally it's because they are not used often enough and the engaging thingamybob ( is it an actuator Datatec?? ) often will just be stuck. Asuming you have tried it whilst in neutral gear, it is quite an easy job to remove said thingamybob,( its the small external motor drive on rear of transfer box, you can't miss it. strip the electric motor, clean the commutator ring, ( are the brushes in good nick? )... Also could be switch connector in gear lever panel. DO NOT INSERT FUSE for transfer box, i did this with mine thinking it had been removed, in fact it is only to be inserted prior to towing vehicle,, it puts transfer box in neutral (via thingamybob) but not if its sticking LOL... electric motor has planetary gears, so be careful pulling it apart,...Mine rolled to the four corners of my workshop, which hadn't seen a brush in weeks.

I also watched a youtube vid(powerfuluk) on testing the thingamybob, and usuful info on powering it up on bench to a certain rotation for refitting, it has a master spline which must point a certain way.. hope this helps, Mine is fine now AOK
 
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myfirstl322 said:
If they don't work, generally it's because they are not used often enough and the engaging thingamybob ( is it an actuator Datatec?? ) often will just be stuck. Asuming you have tried it whilst in neutral gear, it is quite an easy job to remove said thingamybob,( its the small external motor drive on rear of transfer box, you can't miss it. strip the electric motor, clean the commutator ring, ( are the brushes in good nick? )... Also could be switch connector in gear lever panel. DO NOT INSERT FUSE for transfer box, i did this with mine thinking it had been removed, in fact it is only to be inserted prior to towing vehicle,, it puts transfer box in neutral (via thingamybob) but not if its sticking LOL... electric motor has planetary gears, so be careful pulling it apart,...Mine rolled to the four corners of my workshop, which hadn't seen a brush in weeks.

I also watched a youtube vid(powerfuluk) on testing the thingamybob, and usuful info on powering it up on bench to a certain rotation for refitting, it has a master spline which must point a certain way.. hope this helps, Mine is fine now AOK
Click to expand...
thanks very much for the reply, i will keep an eye out for said thingamybob, i have a feeling i saw it when i was under there looking at the thingymajig that i am taking out soon

i dont get anything up on the display to say its even trying to do anything though but its all coming out with the box anyway.
i did know about the fuse as one of my first jobs was to work out how to tow the car to a dealer....
as you can tell this is my first L322
 
Transfer Ratio Changes are carried out using an electric motor - this motor has a switch pack or rotary encoder on the rear to let the ECU know what ratio it is in and what position the motor is in.

The motors have been known to seize up through lack of use and the pack on the back to fall apart....(the casing cracks up)

The Pack is a non serviceable part, although reading through rangerovers.net and fullfatrr.com, there are a couple of users who are trying to see if they can manufacture replacements for a few quid, else it is a case replacing the transfer motor at £££.

Some also report success at unseizing the motor too.

I doubt it is your pack on the back as I am sure (iirc) that failure of this switch brings up a Transmission Fault on the dash.

I wish you luck in replacing your gearbox....take loads of photos and do a How To post, I am sure there are others who would like to see the process so they can save garage costs.

I can carefully drive the L322 onto 4 heavy duty ramps (as seen in my Gearbox fluid how to) I know it is frowned upon to do so, but needs must at times.

Remember don't rely on the Air Suspension to gain ground clearance - it could fail or over a few days lower slightly.

If it was me, I would drive up the ramps with the EAS set to Offroad height, then place axle stands on blocks under the subframe rails to safeguard the EAS lowering, disconnect the battery and take my time.

Do not underestimate the weight of the gearbox so support it at all times and be mindful of the gearbox oil pump as it can be damaged if the procedure to remove and install isn't followed to the letter....

Good luck, let us know how it goes and take some pictures (cos I have considered doing this myself - and would like to see the process :D)
 
Saint.V8 said:
I can carefully drive the L322 onto 4 heavy duty ramps (as seen in my Gearbox fluid how to) I know it is frowned upon to do so, but needs must at times.
Click to expand...

you should get some of the drive on ramps then. cant beat them :)





these are designed for small, low profile cars, but im going to get some taller ones for the range to give that extra height
 
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Similar...

50.jpg


GB1.jpg


:D
 
jamesmartin said:
i wouldnt trust those ramps much ,something a bit heavier duty imo
Click to expand...
Heaviest duty I could find at the time... 2.5 tonne a pair (1.25 tonne each ramp - 2.5 tonne Range Rover is about 625kg per ramp - but they do look a little underpowered)

When things quieten down in our workshop at work, I'll be grinning at our Welding chaps and pointing towards the metal rack with nodding and grinning....
 
they do look flimsy, but i bet there actually stronger then they look.

obviously they've been fine on your motor

i got a metal fabricator to build mine.

built with 1" square steel frame.

need some taller ones now, as they we're designed to slide under our mini cooper's chassis lol
 
If you want cheap and easy ramps just get your self a couple of railway sleepers and bevel the ends with a chainsaw.simples , drive straight on with no worries bout them giving way
 
Put a grapple hook on the back of a passing train! You'll soon have plenty! Good for landscaping your garden as well!
 
I use the 4 ramp method, the next step is to construct a wide set to bring it up to a working height of approx 650mm-750mm, the originals would be fine as starters , once on these , place taller & wider set and mount those.. I also considered making an odd contraption using those cage type wheels for tractors, but fabricating an offset/eccentric hub mount, i reckon this would achieve a working height of at least 1200mm. Just fit in place of wheels, drive, and up you go, scary thought, also have step ladders for getting out....
 
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thanks for all the info and replies.
i'll be taking plenty of phots of the process hopefully as it progresses.

i'll do a 'how to' post if we get that far, which may be a 'how not to'

i'll sort the transfer box while i am pulling the box out.
i have plenty of time as i dont use the car for work so we plan to attack it in stages taking plenty of time

thanks for the info regarding the oil pump saint, i'll have to look into that when the time comes as i wasnt aware of that.

i think the plan as far as lifting the brute is to put it in offroad and drive up a stack of scaffold boards, that are screwed together, to get some initial height and then jack the rest of the way with a 12 tonne bottle jack or a trolley jack each side and then support on 4 axle stands which are rated at 3 tonne the pair, 1.5 each i guess.
we will then pack something solid up under the wheel as an extra precaution.

i do like the 4 ramp method or the railway sleeper with back up axle stands, sounds favorite to me

stand by for update, i am waiting for uv dye to turn up so we see exactly whats leaking from where
cheers
 
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