oil and filter change

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skoda169

New Member
Posts
76
Location
back of beyond in the Northumberland hills
Took me ages to get the plastic sump cover/guard off,every one of the 8 bolts were completely rusted solid and full of dirt/crap.
After the best part of an hour lying on the floor i managed to get them all out.
once off i decided to cut a hole in the plastic guard right under the sump plug so i don't have to take it off next time to change the oil,this will speed things up a bit;)

anyone else on here done this or had problems getting the cover off??
also stuck a litre of lucas oil stabilizer in there too
 
quite a common mod to cut a hole out, there is a thread on here somewhere that gives dimensions and location etc.

the whole undertray thing is a bit of a pain in the arse first time round, but when I put mine back, I put copperslip on the bolts screws etc, its dead easy on and off now, esp once you have done it the first time.

not sure about the lucas thing though.
 
i use one of those pressure pumps that suck oil out of dipstick, brilliant things, i once took the plug out of a sump after and nothing came out so on all my cars i just suck it up.
 
On my L-series I have cut away the smallest portion of the undertray to get at the filter but if you cut too much away it does leave the filter can exposed and vulnerable if you are a regular off roader.

To drain the oil I simply undo the two 10mm bolts at the back of the undertray pull it down slightly and insert a length of plastic gutter about 450mm long. If you notch the sides it wedges under the sump. I can then undo the sump plug with a long extension and drain the oil by means of the gutter into a catch tank.
 
on my previous freelander i replace the plastic with 5 bar alloy and will be doing it asap on this one as soon as I get a couple of day good wether so you just undo 4 bolts and it leaves the frame in position
 
Optimus Prime said:
quite a common mod to cut a hole out, there is a thread on here somewhere that gives dimensions and location etc.

the whole undertray thing is a bit of a pain in the arse first time round, but when I put mine back, I put copperslip on the bolts screws etc, its dead easy on and off now, esp once you have done it the first time.

not sure about the lucas thing though.
Click to expand...

That'll explain why there's a hole in mine then. Spotted it today whilst looking for a dropped socket.
 
Optimus Prime said:
quite a common mod to cut a hole out, there is a thread on here somewhere that gives dimensions and location etc.

the whole undertray thing is a bit of a pain in the arse first time round, but when I put mine back, I put copperslip on the bolts screws etc, its dead easy on and off now, esp once you have done it the first time.

not sure about the lucas thing though.
Click to expand...

Great minds think alike as i too put copper slip on all 8 bolts before putting them back in;)
 
Whoever came up with that sump guard/under tray design wants f**king! I was swearing and cursing wrestling with the bolts today! My sump plug didn't want to come out either ( no washer and it had 'become one' with the sump! My oil was last changed by the previous owner 13,000 miles ago. ( or so they said!) I'm not so sure? The oil was gunge, the filter had turned to mush! (When I finally got the filter housing lid off,) my biggest socket was about a mm too small!
The air filter box is a bugger too, a magnetic 5mm Allen bit on a long thin wratchet is the way forward! Still a pig to get the back ones to bite when the lid goes back on though!
I did the BMW crankcase breather upgrade too ( whilst the air box lid is off, just undo the rail wiring (3 tiny bolt headed screws) then undo the 5mm Allen bolts, chuck the old loo roll filter ( mine was just a coked up wrap of sludge!) the BMW part just slots in! Lid on, wires back on, air box lid on, plastic doofer in front of that, job jobbed!
I used valvoline durablend diesel oil 5w30 (7litres for £33 at eurocarparts) Mahle filters (eBay £15 for air and oil ) BMW crankcase dooberry was £22 from local dealer (selling on eBay now) I also bought new discs and pads at eurocarparts (£43 for branded front discs and pads inc anti squeal grease) so all in it has cost me about £115. Land rover wanted £372 for 60,000 mile service including paper crankcase breather! I would say that anyone who has a socket set, screwdrivers, a jack and a bucket and funnel for the oil could do it!

The discs and pads are a doddle. The hardest part is winding the calliper back in with a g clamp and a piece of wood !
Wear latex gloves if you can, have some beers on ice as a reward for when you've done!

Next on my list is EGR fingy mod. (Still hasn't arrived from eBay bloke ) and I think one of the hoses has a pin hole in ( 4" piece of rubber hose to left of EGR with a wire bolted to it ( anyone?) there is loads of gungy oil and sludge at the join and on the plastic under it.

I'm not a mechanic ( I'm a paramedic!) but I enjoyed today. There's nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself and saving a fortune on dealer prices!
 
Gloker

Isn't it though? When I got my TD4 earlier this year, opening up the bonnet, or clambering underneath was so much better to work on than anything else I've done before. And as you stated, doing the service is more satisfying, especially with the wealth of cracking info on here. People may gripe on about the car's faults (and yes, there are a few!!) but repairing them is fairly easy for the modest DIYer. Keep on keeping on!! :)
 
After a quick search on here (thanks again Landyzone) the small hose next to the air temp/intake sensor has a hole where it has rubbed on a screw (common apparently) now looking at silicone hose kits!
 
gloker said:
Whoever came up with that sump guard/under tray design wants f**king! I was swearing and cursing wrestling with the bolts today! My sump plug didn't want to come out either ( no washer and it had 'become one' with the sump! My oil was last changed by the previous owner 13,000 miles ago. ( or so they said!) I'm not so sure? The oil was gunge, the filter had turned to mush! (When I finally got the filter housing lid off,) my biggest socket was about a mm too small!
The air filter box is a bugger too, a magnetic 5mm Allen bit on a long thin wratchet is the way forward! Still a pig to get the back ones to bite when the lid goes back on though!
I did the BMW crankcase breather upgrade too ( whilst the air box lid is off, just undo the rail wiring (3 tiny bolt headed screws) then undo the 5mm Allen bolts, chuck the old loo roll filter ( mine was just a coked up wrap of sludge!) the BMW part just slots in! Lid on, wires back on, air box lid on, plastic doofer in front of that, job jobbed!
I used valvoline durablend diesel oil 5w30 (7litres for £33 at eurocarparts) Mahle filters (eBay £15 for air and oil ) BMW crankcase dooberry was £22 from local dealer (selling on eBay now) I also bought new discs and pads at eurocarparts (£43 for branded front discs and pads inc anti squeal grease) so all in it has cost me about £115. Land rover wanted £372 for 60,000 mile service including paper crankcase breather! I would say that anyone who has a socket set, screwdrivers, a jack and a bucket and funnel for the oil could do it!

The discs and pads are a doddle. The hardest part is winding the calliper back in with a g clamp and a piece of wood !
Wear latex gloves if you can, have some beers on ice as a reward for when you've done!

Next on my list is EGR fingy mod. (Still hasn't arrived from eBay bloke ) and I think one of the hoses has a pin hole in ( 4" piece of rubber hose to left of EGR with a wire bolted to it ( anyone?) there is loads of gungy oil and sludge at the join and on the plastic under it.

I'm not a mechanic ( I'm a paramedic!) but I enjoyed today. There's nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself and saving a fortune on dealer prices!
Click to expand...

Excellent job soundslike you had fun doing your service! i love tinkering with my hippo and as croc says it's much more rewarding and satisfying doing it yourself.
i plan to upgrade to the DPH silicone hoses soon and fit the synergy kit i bought 2 weeks ago once i get some time off work.
 
skoda169 said:
Excellent job soundslike you had fun doing your service! i love tinkering with my hippo and as croc says it's much more rewarding and satisfying doing it yourself.
i plan to upgrade to the DPH silicone hoses soon and fit the synergy kit i bought 2 weeks ago once i get some time off work.
Click to expand...

You'll need a 6mm spanner and plenty of patience to get to and then undo the nut on the jubilee clip that holds one of the longer hoses on. It's a right pig.
 
Don't you still have to remove the under carriage to reach the oil filter?
Click to expand...

not on the diesel td4 ..
( don't know about the petrol 1.8 / v6 .. or diesel L-series )

what engine options are fitted to u.s.a. versions ?
 
I'm a newbie to the Freelander and I'm somewhat encouraged to have found this thread. Today was my first attempt at changing the oil and filter on my '05 Freelander. Mine is a US Spec 2.5l V6 and the assembly engineers in their wisdom chose to use Rivets to mount the plastic carriage trays. I would not be surprised if that was more a labor union decision at the assembly stage rather than an engineering decision.

The use of Rivets would increase speed and efficiency at the assembly stage. But the very first time someone has to change the oil and filter, one has to drill out those very same rivets in order to provide clearance for a filter wrench to reach the oil filter. The oil pad drain plug is barely accessible without removal of the tray however gravity will dictate the oil flow over the tray before reaching a drain pan.

Simply Brilliant!

Those of you who have bolts and allen screws--be thankful you don't have rivets.
 
Why not just un bolt the aluminium frame the plastic trays are attached to?


undertray.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oh...there's rivets! Just means you have to take the whole shooting match off! Unbolting frames that bits of plastic have been riveted to, just to get to a sump plug! ????
 
gloker said:
Oh...there's rivets! Just means you have to take the whole shooting match off! Unbolting frames that bits of plastic have been riveted to, just to get to a sump plug! ????
Click to expand...

it takes five minutes, certainly a lot easier than drilling out rivets or doing a mod.
 
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