Oh what have I done

they should roll fairly easily but it's probably worth backing off the brake adjusters in case the wheel cylinders have siezed.

oxides said:

they should roll fairly easily but it's probably worth backing off the brake adjusters in case the wheel cylinders have siezed.

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Thanks Oxides.

OK, finally after a lot of dicking around by the owner (lost the bloody keys ), I managed to get this lump back home. The main problem I have is that the braked are partially on as I had to tow it off the trailer The master cylinder is disconnected. Is there any other solution other than taking each wheel/drum off and manually freeing them ?

Predictably there are a few holes in the chassis. Here's some (poor) pics.







This next one is the worst hole. Near the front O/S shock mount.



Not sure what you call these, but they are braces that go under the boot floor


Another smaller hole, but whats around it seems reasonably solid.



I've seen a few that are rotten here, but this seems pretty solid




First one I've seen where the seats havent been shredded!


And finally drivers footwell. Doesn't look too bad to me, but when it comes to bodywork I really don't have a clue




EDIT: I'm assuming that as the bulkhead is white it's had a donor one thrown in there at some point.

Actually mate, from what I have seen in those photo's, things don't look too bad. If you, or anyone you know is handy with a welder, then the chassis looks salvageable. The bulkhead looks to be in good order, which is the main worry with these things. As for the bodywork, she don't look too bad, and you'd be amazed at the difference a fresh coat of paint can make.

is this blue one supposed to be the "nearly roadworthy" one ?

despite what's been said above that'll not be passing an MOT unless you spend a LOT of time on it - any chassis that shows that much external corrosion is going to have suffered a lot of thinning, just look at the state of the front damper mount, doesn't look to be much metal left going up towards the dumb iron

fold the windscreen down, i'd bet the top of the BH comes away stuck to the seal

fair chance the BH feet both need replacing - peel the door pillar seal away, bet there's finger sized holes there as well

rear tub brace missing, they'll be lots of corrosion to the tub base as well - poke a finger at the drivers floor where it meets the footwell, don't be surprised if it goes all the way through

judging from just these few out of focus pics i'd guess you're looking at a good few days work for a competent welder - plus a good few more getting access and for preparation works - by which time you'll have paid half the cost of a new galv'ed chassis just for labour

sorry to be the voice of doom here but anyone who says that "isnt too bad" is giving a false impression of what it takes to get a landy in that state legally and safely back on the road - but, it's a fine project so get on with it

Sorry chap, I'm with Sean on this. Even if you manage to bodge one or t'other through an MOT after a **** load of work, you'll be in the same ****ed up, dire position a year later for the next ticket.

If you've the space, time and inclination & since they are now both yours (it's a project I'd enjoy......if I had the time, space and inclination!) I'd start stripping one (I'd go for the blue 'un as it has the earlier flat pressed bonnet) to it's basic components.

I'd probably purchase a galv chassis (if I had the time space and inclination, the money would be handy too, about 'a bag' if you're wondering).

THEN, I'd start building it up from a mish mash of salvagable/restorable/renovatable parts from the two of them, plus reaslitically, a fair amount of fairly easily available new parts until you actually have quite a nice motor.......................or weigh the piles of **** in.

is this blue one supposed to be the "nearly roadworthy" one ?

Click to expand...

Yup

despite what's been said above that'll not be passing an MOT unless you spend a LOT of time on it - any chassis that shows that much external corrosion is going to have suffered a lot of thinning, just look at the state of the front damper mount, doesn't look to be much metal left going up towards the dumb iron

Click to expand...

It's not that bad, there is another hole on top of the beam (terminology?) near the front shock mount, but I reckon removing the battery tray will give good access. The other side seems fine and passed the 'stab the crap out of it with a screwdriver test'.

fold the windscreen down, i'd bet the top of the BH comes away stuck to the seal

Click to expand...

I haven't done that as I would obviously have to detach the front of the roof. I must say though that the area you mention does seem very solid.And as I have no intention of dropping the screen does it matter?

fair chance the BH feet both need replacing - peel the door pillar seal away, bet there's finger sized holes there as well

Click to expand...

A picture paints a thousand words (assuming of course I have photographed the area you were asking about )

Assuming this was the area you were talking about all that does look pretty solid to me.

rear tub brace missing, they'll be lots of corrosion to the tub base as well - poke a finger at the drivers floor where it meets the footwell, don't be surprised if it goes all the way through

Click to expand...

Tried the finger poke test and screwdriver test, all OK there. You are quite right about the tub floor. It has rusted in two or three spots where the braces are (were). Is chequer plating an acceptable fix for an MOT inspector? Again the rest of the tub floor is perfectly solid.

judging from just these few out of focus pics i'd guess you're looking at a good few days work for a competent welder - plus a good few more getting access and for preparation works - by which time you'll have paid half the cost of a new galv'ed chassis just for labour

Click to expand...

Fair point on the crappy pics. Again, unless I am missing something all the areas that obviously need welding seem to have good access.

sorry to be the voice of doom here but anyone who says that "isnt too bad" is giving a false impression of what it takes to get a landy in that state legally and safely back on the road - but, it's a fine project so get on with it

Click to expand...

No, I appreciate your honesty, and Grippa's


I guess what I am thinking is if getting it through an MOT won't break the bank I'll take a punt and run it for 12 months then weigh it in.

But before I can do anything to it I need to get it on the bloody drive

It is in 4WD at present. Am I correct in assuming that this Landy should be in 2WD with the red knob slammed forward ? (I did drag it back and forth into that position) Nothing I do will get it out of 4WD. Winding the front wheel around with a bar spins the back wheel.

And should the yellow knob depress without the engine running and no clutch ? Coz it doesn't (EDIT: it does depress it just immediately springs back up)

BoxCleva said:

It is in 4WD at present. Am I correct in assuming that this Landy should be in 2WD with the red knob slammed forward ? (I did drag it back and forth into that position) Nothing I do will get it out of 4WD. Winding the front wheel around with a bar spins the back wheel.

And should the yellow knob depress without the engine running and no clutch ? Coz it doesn't (EDIT: it does depress it just immediately springs back up)

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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/ear-wots-all-dem-levers-58303.html

Thanks for the link.

So in it's current state with the red knob pushed fully forward and the yellow knob in the up position the vehicle should be in high range 2WD. BUt it aint

Any ideas how I can rectify this please ?

Grippa said:

If you've the space, time and inclination & since they are now both yours (it's a project I'd enjoy......if I had the time, space and inclination!) I'd start stripping one (I'd go for the blue 'un as it has the earlier flat pressed bonnet) to it's basic components.

I'd probably purchase a galv chassis (if I had the time space and inclination, the money would be handy too, about 'a bag' if you're wondering).

THEN, I'd start building it up from a mish mash of salvagable/restorable/renovatable parts from the two of them, plus reaslitically, a fair amount of fairly easily available new parts until you actually have quite a nice motor......

Click to expand...

you'd have to be completely barking mad to take on such a lengthy, costly project - knowing the vehicle you end up with is only going to be worth a fraction of what you'd spent on it

madness, only a fool would do such a thing

Replacing the chassis is not and never will be an option. If it cant be patched for a reasonable cost then its going straight back on the bay.

But if I can't get it moved it wont even be going on ebay