Oh no! Not that old fog light question again.

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Hu-man

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Essex
I have a 1998 Defender 90.

There are two lights to the rear at low level. The drivers side is the red fog lamp and I assume the left hand side is the white reverse light?
Neither work.

I bought a new reverse light fitting with the attached length of wiring. I cannot see where the wiring goes to. From looking under the left wheel arch, it looks as if the wiring passes through to the inside, but I don't know where. On the left as you look in the car door I can see a speaker and a small gap behind of that right in the corner where I can see/feel the back of the back break lights. Does the wiring go behind the speaker? Would you generally have to remove the folding seat beside of this and the whole speaker to gain access to that wiring?

I have googled this and generally I am fairly good at researching but I can't seem to find anything that shoes me where that wiring goes.
Just to add, the reversing light I have (just like the original) a rectangal fitting, came with the bulb and about a foot of wiring already fitted with two connectors on the end. Is this because I should be able to disconnect the existing one (which has fallen apart internally) and reconnect the new one.

Thanks
 
Hi.
The light are wired into the 'triangle' at the back of the tub just to the right and left of the rear door.
The wires come along, through the chassis, from the front and up into this space where they connect to the lights on the offside (rear, brake indicator and fog) and then go down, across the rear X-member to the near side, up into the triangular space and then to the lights (rear, brake, indicators and reverse).
Some wires (from the offside) also feed into the back door for the heated screen and the wash/wiper - if fitted.

Not sure about the speaker (I don't have any) but it sounds like this is the cover you need to remove.
The nearside is easier as you can get at the bolt/nuts with the door open. The offside takes two (unless you have very long arms).
 
The wires hide behind plastic shields inside the wheel arch, these shields look like the inner wing but are not.

If both bulbs are good, I would say rev light switch is at fault, and either needs new or adjusting, both of the lamps are pretty crap, but normally clean up just fine.

Where are you switching the fog light on from? will need ignition and lights on for the fog to work.
 
Thank you for the replies and tips.

The fog lamp switch is on the dash to the right of the steering wheel. There is a bank of three switches, emergency hazards (working), heated rear windscreen (not tested) and the fog light switch which lights up on the switch at least.

I had to change the reverse lamp as mine was shattered to bits inside. All I did was cut the existing wires that were already there from the back of the shattered concave reflector and connect to the new lamp internals with a new bulb. I was hoping for that to work obviously but it didn't.

I did have the engine on and light son to test the fog and reverse lights.

The bulbs are new and I checked they worked in the indicator just to double check. I am not sure where to find the revers light switch.

I have added some photos as sometimes that can help, but I am going to check if power comes to the units. I have a multimeter so will try that later.
 

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lynall said:
The wires hide behind plastic shields inside the wheel arch, these shields look like the inner wing but are not.

If both bulbs are good, I would say rev light switch is at fault, and either needs new or adjusting, both of the lamps are pretty crap, but normally clean up just fine.

Where are you switching the fog light on from? will need ignition and lights on for the fog to work.
Click to expand...
Plastic? Mine are ali panels that are bolted into place.

EDIT: are you referring to the underside in which case yes there is foam/rubber mud guard to protect the wiring that you can lift up to get behind.

Hu-man said:
Thank you for the replies and tips.

The fog lamp switch is on the dash to the right of the steering wheel. There is a bank of three switches, emergency hazards (working), heated rear windscreen (not tested) and the fog light switch which lights up on the switch at least.

I had to change the reverse lamp as mine was shattered to bits inside. All I did was cut the existing wires that were already there from the back of the shattered concave reflector and connect to the new lamp internals with a new bulb. I was hoping for that to work obviously but it didn't.

I did have the engine on and light son to test the fog and reverse lights.

The bulbs are new and I checked they worked in the indicator just to double check. I am not sure where to find the revers light switch.

I have added some photos as sometimes that can help, but I am going to check if power comes to the units. I have a multimeter so will try that later.
Click to expand...
The rear light wiring will be behind the speaker. Your is clearly more upmarket than mine but if you remove the trim to remove the speaker you will either have another cover to remove or the wiring will be there. the main loom will be behind that panel and will then connect to the light which will run down to the light itself.

Not the best photo but you can see the wiring on mine here (which is a mess) behind that light panels, you can see the hole the brake light goes through. From memory the fog light is a red and yellow wire to connect to the light at the rear. The light connections and the light unites themselves are notorious for filling with water and corroding. I would not trust the old wiring and would be removing and replacing properly.

1730984119877.png
 
miktdish said:
Spagettii ... and that red paint gets everywhere 🤣
Click to expand...
Like I said a mess I inherited from the previous owner as this is the station wagon donor not my 110! But it show the location for OP, hidden behind their fancy speakers and plastic trim panels.
Also while doing work on the lights and taking the trim panels out to access and check the wiring there should be a grommet in the hole to prevent the rear wiper/heated-screen/high level brake light cables chafing and causing more issues in the future.

1730991198267.png
 
dag019 said:
Like I said a mess I inherited from the previous owner as this is the station wagon donor not my 110! But it show the location for OP, hidden behind their fancy speakers and plastic trim panels.
Also while doing work on the lights and taking the trim panels out to access and check the wiring there should be a grommet in the hole to prevent the rear wiper/heated-screen/high level brake light cables chafing and causing more issues in the future.

View attachment 329598
Click to expand...
Thought that pipe pushed into the hole so it was its own grommet?
 
I appreciate all the help everyone. I am learning.

I know I should have checked this originally but I borrowed a multimeter to check if there was voltage to both lights and there was. The problem on the reverse light was damaged wire loose connections. I cut it back and added a new pice and it now works. The fog light again was a loose connection as after playing about with it a blink of light came on and went off. I intentionally snapped the convex bulb diffuser from the unit and found rusted connections behind it. Cleaned them up and managed to glue that part back and all working. I have ordered replacements for both now I know there is power there.

Your advise was not lost on me so much appreciated. I am going to expose the wiring as mentioned just to check it over myself so thank you for the guidance.

I have a couple of other issues which I will add a new post for. Once again thanks.
 
Hu-man said:
I know I should have checked this originally but I borrowed a multimeter to check if there was voltage to both lights and there was. The problem on the reverse light was damaged wire loose connections. I cut it back and added a new pice and it now works. The fog light again was a loose connection as after playing about with it a blink of light came on and went off. I intentionally snapped the convex bulb diffuser from the unit and found rusted connections behind it. Cleaned them up and managed to glue that part back and all working. I have ordered replacements for both now I know there is power there.
Click to expand...
I would recommend the LED conversions even if you are not an LED fan, I am not. I used to replace my fog lights (converted so both sides are a fog light) every year or two when tested for MOT time. they corrode internally for a pastime. The led ones can be permanently sealed (they claim to be already but you can pull the lens off with your hands), and so far I have had no problems with them.
Also if you are cutting wire back to let new pieces in between the light and the main loom in the corner you can replace all of that as that length of cable comes with any replacement you fit as the light is hard wired and plugs into the loom behind the speaker panel mentioned earlier.
 
dag019 said:
Plastic? Mine are ali panels that are bolted into place.

EDIT: are you referring to the underside in which case yes there is foam/rubber mud guard to protect the wiring that you can lift up to get behind.


The rear light wiring will be behind the speaker. Your is clearly more upmarket than mine but if you remove the trim to remove the speaker you will either have another cover to remove or the wiring will be there. the main loom will be behind that panel and will then connect to the light which will run down to the light itself.

Not the best photo but you can see the wiring on mine here (which is a mess) behind that light panels, you can see the hole the brake light goes through. From memory the fog light is a red and yellow wire to connect to the light at the rear. The light connections and the light unites themselves are notorious for filling with water and corroding. I would not trust the old wiring and would be removing and replacing properly.

View attachment 329587
Click to expand...
Yep in the wheel arch, mine are hard plastic, arse to try and bend out of the way.
 
Hu-man said:
I appreciate all the help everyone. I am learning.

I know I should have checked this originally but I borrowed a multimeter to check if there was voltage to both lights and there was. The problem on the reverse light was damaged wire loose connections. I cut it back and added a new pice and it now works. The fog light again was a loose connection as after playing about with it a blink of light came on and went off. I intentionally snapped the convex bulb diffuser from the unit and found rusted connections behind it. Cleaned them up and managed to glue that part back and all working. I have ordered replacements for both now I know there is power there.

Your advise was not lost on me so much appreciated. I am going to expose the wiring as mentioned just to check it over myself so thank you for the guidance.

I have a couple of other issues which I will add a new post for. Once again thanks.
Click to expand...
Sadly when doing electrical checks you cannot always believe what a multimeter tells you.
 
lynall said:
Yep in the wheel arch, mine are hard plastic, arse to try and bend out of the way.
Click to expand...
I replaced mine with some diy versions made out of old conveyor belting that also dropped down to the bottom of the crossmember to give some added protection to the mud trap there.
 
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