L322 Oh dear time for the timing chain advise needed please

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W

Willos

Active Member
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521
Location
Huntingdon Cambs
I must say my early l322 has been one of the most reliable cars I’ve had and done 55k on lpg. Only changed the rocker cover gaskets and the water pump, plus a quick swap out of the abs module that failed. I’ve just done a 500 mile round trip . New oil I may add, and when I got home I’ve got the dreaded sound of the chain rattle. No oil pressure problems. I did change from Mobil 1 to Castrol edge 0-40. Should I try changing the oil tensioner first before dismantle ? Secondly I’m seeing timing kits around the £110 mark on eBay. Are these any good or do I stay well clear. I may go for the febi chain and guide kit on island 4x4 which has the tensioner in with it. So if the tensioner is working I’m not paying out more for the chain and guide set. If I go for the full rebuild does anyone know of where you can do a swap out on the vanos units with new seals or is that an easy job. Does anyone have a timing kit willing to rent out ? Thirdly I’ve got a shed full of tools and sockets and constantly fixing so don’t warn me how difficult it is as it’s got to be easier than a p38 I was constantly stripping.
 
@biketeacherdave did one I believe...and of course @Henry_b .

my first L322 (also on Lpg) developed a small timing rattle which was mostly eradicated by fitting a new genuine tensioner, so I'd try that first cos it won't go to waste even if you end up going deeper.

Realistically, the guides are probably breaking up and if you're keeping it then it's probably time to get swotting on the process and get yourself a locking kit.

Once your into it I believe it's a good insurance policy to renew the the coolant tube in the vee.
 
Last edited:
Rrrrrrrrrr. Just manoeuvred on the drive to put it out of Death Valley sun and had a little wiggle of the water pump. Well it wiggles a lot more than it should so that’s coming off first to look at. That’s a barstool as it was a airex one that wasn’t cheap but there you go and only lasted about 30k
 
Willos said:
Rrrrrrrrrr. Just manoeuvred on the drive to put it out of Death Valley sun and had a little wiggle of the water pump. Well it wiggles a lot more than it should so that’s coming off first to look at. That’s a barstool as it was a airex one that wasn’t cheap but there you go and only lasted about 30k
Click to expand...
Maybe the pump is rattling o_O...
Qh or Valeo are two good names to say the least or a genuine part..
 
As already said guides on the M62 do disintegrate a weak tensioner exacerbates this issue, a must for any newly purchased M62 is to replace the chain tensioner as preventative maintenance.

As for oil 40 weight oil is too thin for the M62 5w50 is the best for the old M62 because of the relatively high running temp of 106c you will also note a change in engine noise, or the lack thereof, even a healthy M62 has a relatively mechanical sound to it. ;)

As for Vanos you also have to realise Vanos can make an almost deathrattle when it's due a rebuild, tools are easy to get but you need a stout vice ;)

Our RR whisperer @Saint.V8 did a vidya

Timing chain guide rails can be done DIY you obviously need the obscenely expensive timing tools ideally a complete kit chains tensioners guide rails etc etc.
and in an ideal world an impact gun to spin out the crank bolt, otherwise you can chain up the crank snout and remove it that way..

Again our old mate Saint'v8



;)
 
Henry_b said:
As already said guides on the M62 do disintegrate a weak tensioner exacerbates this issue, a must for any newly purchased M62 is to replace the chain tensioner as preventative maintenance.

As for oil 40 weight oil is too thin for the M62 5w50 is the best for the old M62 because of the relatively high running temp of 106c you will also note a change in engine noise, or the lack thereof, even a healthy M62 has a relatively mechanical sound to it. ;)

As for Vanos you also have to realise Vanos can make an almost deathrattle when it's due a rebuild, tools are easy to get but you need a stout vice ;)

Our RR whisperer @Saint.V8 did a vidya

Timing chain guide rails can be done DIY you obviously need the obscenely expensive timing tools ideally a complete kit chains tensioners guide rails etc etc.
and in an ideal world an impact gun to spin out the crank bolt, otherwise you can chain up the crank snout and remove it that way..

Again our old mate Saint'v8



;)
Click to expand...

Spot on that bloke :)
 
myfirstl322 said:
@biketeacherdave did one I believe...and of course @Henry_b .

Did some 1 call ?? Iv not read all the post.
Yes iv done my timing chain and guides plus head gaskets while in there and recently one of the new hg let go so we're on rebuild number 2 ....almost done.



my first L322 (also on Lpg) developed a small timing rattle which was mostly eradicated by fitting a new genuine tensioner, so I'd try that first cos it won't go to waste even if you end up going deeper.

Realistically, the guides are probably breaking up and if you're keeping it then it's probably time to get swotting on the process and get yourself a locking kit.

Once your into it I believe it's a good insurance policy to renew the the coolant tube in the vee.
Click to expand...
 
Did some 1 call ?? Iv not read all the post.
Yes iv done my timing chain and guides plus head gaskets while in there and recently one of the new hg let go so we're on rebuild number 2 ....almost done.
 
I've done the thermostat mod to reduce to 85 deg c so oil less critical. whilst I'm down the front strip down, New belts , New solenoid covers a de grease and maybe new plugs. Thanks lads for joining in
 
Willos said:
I must say my early l322 has been one of the most reliable cars I’ve had and done 55k on lpg. Only changed the rocker cover gaskets and the water pump, plus a quick swap out of the abs module that failed. I’ve just done a 500 mile round trip . New oil I may add, and when I got home I’ve got the dreaded sound of the chain rattle. No oil pressure problems. I did change from Mobil 1 to Castrol edge 0-40. Should I try changing the oil tensioner first before dismantle ? Secondly I’m seeing timing kits around the £110 mark on eBay. Are these any good or do I stay well clear. I may go for the febi chain and guide kit on island 4x4 which has the tensioner in with it. So if the tensioner is working I’m not paying out more for the chain and guide set. If I go for the full rebuild does anyone know of where you can do a swap out on the vanos units with new seals or is that an easy job. Does anyone have a timing kit willing to rent out ? Thirdly I’ve got a shed full of tools and sockets and constantly fixing so don’t warn me how difficult it is as it’s got to be easier than a p38 I was constantly stripping.
Click to expand...
Afternoon - how are you getting on? Have you managed to source a timing kit?

I ask, as I have a timing kit and also the Beisan VANOS press tool which you will need if you intend to do the VANOS reseal too.

The timing kit is made by Asta and was nigh on £400 when I bought it and is big , bulky and heavy....the Beisan press tool is also quite hefty in weight and was costly too but very necessary for the job.....willing to lend out - but postage maybe expensive....from the Royal Mail website a 10KG medium sized package (61cmx46cmx46cm) valued upto £500 and sent using Special Delivery is in the region of £15-20 but can get a propoer quote if you want.

Now - and this is up for negotiation - I don't know you from Adam, but you have been a member on Landyzone for a while and have a reasonable post count which means you are not a newbie wanting a handout....you have contributed and hung around....would you be willing to paying a negotiable deposit to ensure its safe return?

Sorry to ask - but as you have seen these things can be expensive.....but willing to chat about it.
 
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