Disco 2 Oh B0||0x

I have a slight problem...
My 2004 D2 has blown an ACE pipe... it seems to be the back drivers (right) flexi pipe with the spring around it (anti rub protection).
It happened on a round about with mildly spirited driving. Felt a jerk in the vehicle (may also include the driver before I get the expected comments.... ) and the amber ACE light came on instantly.

I’ve just phoned my local indy specialist and he said straight up that they won’t touch it due to “every one they have touched” has had a problem with valve block corrosion and has cost them £thousands to put right....

Anyone else heard of this or have they been stung once and made a decision on that one experience?

Surely it’s not that big a job to undo the pipe and replace it and bleed the system (however you do that) is it?

Usually, they will unscrew easily, or they will be a right pita, you need to ask yourself “ are you feeling lucky?”

Spot1 said:

I have a slight problem...
My 2004 D2 has blown an ACE pipe... it seems to be the back drivers (right) flexi pipe with the spring around it (anti rub protection).
It happened on a round about with mildly spirited driving. Felt a jerk in the vehicle (may also include the driver before I get the expected comments.... ) and the amber ACE light came on instantly.

I’ve just phoned my local indy specialist and he said straight up that they won’t touch it due to “every one they have touched” has had a problem with valve block corrosion and has cost them £thousands to put right....

Anyone else heard of this or have they been stung once and made a decision on that one experience?

Surely it’s not that big a job to undo the pipe and replace it and bleed the system (however you do that) is it?

Click to expand...

valve blocks can get quite corroded around the seal area, meaning another valve block , but a good used isnt dear new would be, and it is a terrible job if pipe securings are corroded past undoable

jamesmartin said:

valve blocks can get quite corroded around the seal area, meaning another valve block , but a good used isnt dear new would be, and it is a terrible job if pipe securings are corroded past undoable

Click to expand...

So it very much is a case of;

freelance said:

you need to ask yourself “ are you feeling lucky?”

Click to expand...

It may not be a bad job but it could be a nightmare..... Oh great.
best get the pipes ordered and cross everything!

Speaking of which, any suggestions of where to get the pipes from?

Ask on here and see.

Mine went to the tip, rears very rusty, fronts were fractured.

I would suggest another block and convert to hydraulic fittings.

Spot1 said:

Speaking of which, any suggestions of where to get the pipes from?

Click to expand...

Check the part number here
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35470/35501/2689/35552

just google the part number, ebay had some or any of the usual LR parts suppliers.

Maybe my ongoing thread might interest you, It is getting updated eventually..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...al-with-pictures-ongoing.333344/#post-4328669

Just had my rear ACE pipes changed by my local indie. Used, guess what, Britpart! My mechanic reckons they were probably the easiest he has changed in terms of the bends being the right shape for easy fitting. UP yours Britpart bashers!

Well, I’ve ordered the part from island 4x4 as it was the cheapest I could get the Britpart one from all in. Some charging £120-£130+ VAT+ P&P.... £101 all in from Island including free P&P.

Looking at the pipe failure closer, I’m half tempted to go to land rover and claim design fault as it looks like the failure is down to the end of the “wear protection” spring/coil end having worn a hole through the hose part of the pipe.... it wouldn’t have failed had that coil not been there.... worth checking your D2 ACE pipes although the others on mine look fine.

I’m impressed! Thank you island 4x4! Ordered at 20:50 Tuesday night and delivered by lunch time today, that’s about 40 hours!! Very good service!

Let’s see what happens with the fitting...

All sorted at last! What I anticipated as 3-4 hours turned into a day and a half....

It looked easy in the workshop manual!

“Remove two bolts securing pipes to chassis” failed to mention the nuts rusting away and seized... cue about an hour on each one with dremel working at awkward angles with crap visibility to actually see what you’re doing....

“Release two nuts on ARB drop-links” again, rusted to hell so knackered threads.... almost another job for dremel but not quite however best part of an hour on each side to totally remove the drop links.... (replaced with new)

Finally in a position to tackle the actual problem.... releasing the burst pipe wasn’t that difficult, the cap nuts on the actuator came off fine and the nuts/studs on the valve block, likewise.

I wish that I’d brought both pipes to replace as I ended up having to release the intact one to be able to remove the burst one so may as well have replaced it but I didn’t have it and needed the truck back on the road... oh, by the way, the pipes are a tight fit to get out and back in!! Reminded me of the krypton factor!!

So it took me about 6 hours to remove the burst pipe and about an hour to fit the new one and the new drop links....

I didn’t bother bleeding the system, just put new fluid in the tank and kept it topped up. All good and body roll now much better!

I can’t believe the local indy specialist advised total removal of the ACE system because of one burst pipe.... they won’t be getting any trade from me now which is a shame as they are only 10 minutes away from me....